Fonds constitutes the principal resource for the study of the history of Canadian mountaineering. It provides a wealth of information on individual alpinists, expeditions, mountains, national parks, conservation, climbing, alpine organizations, publications, guiding, scientific study and the Alpin…
ca.42 m of textual records. -- ca.12,500 photographs: prints, stereographic prints, transparencies, slides, negatives, postcards. -- 85 photograph albums. -- 8 motion pictures: films, video recordings. -- 3 sound recordings
History / Biographical
The Alpine Club of Canada, the national mountaineering club, was co-founded in 1906 by A. O. Wheeler and Elizabeth Parker, and other like-minded climbers. The club espoused scientific study and exploration, cultivation of art, public education, acquisition of climbing skills, and preservation of natural areas within the mountainous regions of Canada. Through a national executive, local sections and volunteer committees, the club provided climbing camps, clubhouse, huts, and publications, including the Canadian Alpine Journal. ACC expeditions and projects resulted in pioneer exploration, first ascents, and included mountain warfare training during the Second World War. In recent years, the club's membership has increased dramatically with the popularity of climbing and its programs have evolved to serve the needs of unguided climbers using sophisticated technical aids.
Scope & Content
Fonds constitutes the principal resource for the study of the history of Canadian mountaineering. It provides a wealth of information on individual alpinists, expeditions, mountains, national parks, conservation, climbing, alpine organizations, publications, guiding, scientific study and the Alpine Club itself.
The fonds consists of four Sous-fonds: I. Alpine Club of Canada records; II. Mount Everest Expedition (1982) records; III. Personal papers and photographs; IV. Other material. Club administration records (series I.A.) pertain to executive positions; head office; finance; camps, climbing and treks; expeditions; huts and properties; clubhouses; library; publications; photography; other committees; other activities; and other. Other club records include section records (series I.B.), hut registers and summit records (series I.C.).
Fonds pertains to 3 photograph prints of members of the St. Elias expedition in the Yukon, a large-format black and white print of a mountain range [possibly including St. Elias], 11 typed letters to Wright from W.E. (Smoke) Blanchard dated January-May 1965 discussing the expedition, 2 typed one-pa…
1 cm of textual records (18 pages ; 21.6 x 27.9 cm) ; 4 photographs : b&w and col. ; 29.2 x 21.8 cm or smaller
History / Biographical
Dr. Gerald Wright (1917-2007) grew up in Brecon, South Wales, and studied medicine in Wales and London, England, throughout the 1940s. He served in the British Army in the Royal Army Medical Corps from 1942-1946 in North Africa and Italy.
In 1951 Wright moved to Lethbridge, Alberta, due to its close proximity to the Canadian Rockies, where he maintained a general practice as a member of the Hunt Clinic. He went on to serve as Chief of Medicine at St. Michael's Hospital and the Lethbridge Municipal Hospital until his retirement in 1988.
Shortly after arriving in Canada he became a member of the Alpine Club of Canada and attended many annual camps, often as camp doctor. He also participated in ACC expeditions to Mount St. Elias (1967, unsuccessful), Mount Alberta (1967, successful as part of the Alberta Team), and Mt. Waddington (1969). He also successfully summited Mt. Robson on his third attempt at the mountain. Wright hiked extensively throughout Nepal, Switzerland, South America, and New Zealand in addtion to the Rockies.
He was also a member of the Skyline Trail Hikers of the Canadian Rockies and was a founding member of the Castle-Crown Wilderness Coalition, where he served on the Board of Directors, helping to plan and lead many annual hiking trips.
Scope & Content
Fonds pertains to 3 photograph prints of members of the St. Elias expedition in the Yukon, a large-format black and white print of a mountain range [possibly including St. Elias], 11 typed letters to Wright from W.E. (Smoke) Blanchard dated January-May 1965 discussing the expedition, 2 typed one-page summaries of the attempt on the mountain [one written by Blanchard and includes a hand-drawn map of the area around the mountain], a Xerox copy of a letter written on University of Oregon Medical School letterhead listing the members of the St. Elias party and recommended medical tests to have completed prior to the expedition, a two-page typed list of gear & equipment, and a hand-written list of expedition members and the University of Oregon Medical School doctor and their contact information.
File consists of a report from the incoming President for 1968, the meeting minutes of the Board of Management meetings in July and September 1968, as well as the meeting minutes of the 63rd Annual General Meeting held at Lake O'Hara Summer Camp on July 28th, 1968; as well as the 64th Annual Genera…
File consists of a report from the incoming President for 1968, the meeting minutes of the Board of Management meetings in July and September 1968, as well as the meeting minutes of the 63rd Annual General Meeting held at Lake O'Hara Summer Camp on July 28th, 1968; as well as the 64th Annual General Meeting that took place at the Clubhouse in Banff, on July 27th, 1969. Also included are the agenda and meeting minutes from Board meetings in February, July, and October 1969.
File consists of the Finance Committee's report on the Recommendations as to 'Specific Fund Reserves' from 1968, a report Re: Budgetary Estimates and Club Operation 1969, and the Audited Financial report for 1967. Also includes statements for the Camp Revenue and Expenses for 1969 and the Audited B…
File consists of the Finance Committee's report on the Recommendations as to 'Specific Fund Reserves' from 1968, a report Re: Budgetary Estimates and Club Operation 1969, and the Audited Financial report for 1967. Also includes statements for the Camp Revenue and Expenses for 1969 and the Audited Balance Sheet for 1969, and an Analysis of the ACC 1970 Budget report.
Sub-series of hut registers from Abbot Hut produced by the Alpine Club of Canada between 1954 and 2017. Registers include entries from visitors to the huts which pertain to individuals' hiking and climbing trips; details of specific events which occurred while staying at the hut, wildlife sightings…
Abbot Pass Hut was built in 1922 and sits at an elevation of 2,926 meters. It is one of the highest structures in Canada. The hut was named after Philip Stanley Abbot who had died from a fall during the first known attempt to reach the summit of Mount Lefroy. The hut was a national historic site, but the hut was closed to visitors in 2018 due to the erosion of the slope beneath the hut. On June 30, 2022 Parks Canada officially removed Abbot Pass Hut, due to those environmental factors.
Scope & Content
Sub-series of hut registers from Abbot Hut produced by the Alpine Club of Canada between 1954 and 2017. Registers include entries from visitors to the huts which pertain to individuals' hiking and climbing trips; details of specific events which occurred while staying at the hut, wildlife sightings, custodial issues and updates, and related topics.
The sub-series is separated into individual hut registers, arranged by date:
M200 / IV / A / 1: Abbot Pass Hut register [1954 - 1960]
M200 / IV / A / 2: [Abbot Pass Hut Register 1954 - 1970]
M200 / IV / A / 3: [Abbot Pass Hut? loose register 1972 - 1974]
M200 / IV / A / 4: [Abbot] Pass Hut [register 1974 - 1978]
M200 / IV / A / 5: Abbot Hut [register 1979 - 1980]
M200 / IV / A / 6: [Abbot]'s Hut Registry [1980 - 1982]
M200 / IV / A / 7: [Abbot Pass Hut Register 1982 - 1983]
M200 / IV / A / 8: [Abbot Pass register 1983]
M200 / IV / A / 9: [Abbot Hut Register 1987]
M200 / IV / A / 10: Abbot's Hut Bible [register, 1988 - 1992]
M200 / IV / A / 11: Abbot Pass Hut 1992 - 93
M200 / IV / A / 12: "Abbot Pass Hut Log Book" Aug. 24, 1993 - July 20, 1995
M200 / IV / A / 13: Abbot Pass hut register Aug. 11, 1995 - July 30, 1996.
M200 / IV / A / 14: [Abbot Pass] hut register July 30, 1996 - May 4, 1997
M200 / IV / A / 15: "Abbot Pass Hut Register" June 26, 1997 - September 3, 1998
M200 / IV / A / 16: Abbot Pass Hut [1998- 2000]
M200 / IV / A / 17: Abbot Pass Sep 6, 2000 - July 26, 2002
M200 / IV / A / 18: Abbot Hut Register 2002 - 2003
M200 / IV / A / 19: Abbot Pass Aug 31, 2003 - Aug 20, 2005
M200 / IV / A / 20: Abbot Pass Register 2004 - 2007
M200 / IV / A / 21: Abbot Hut Register 2007 - 2009
M200 / IV / A / 22: [2011 Abbot Hut Register]
M200 / IV / A / 23: Abbot Hut Register [2012 - 2014]
M200 / IV / A / 24: Abbot Pass Hut Register [2014 - 2016]
M200 / IV / A / 25: Abbot Pass Hut Register, 2016 - 2017
M200 / IV / A / 26: [Abbot Pass Hut Register: 2017-2018]
The Alpine Club of Canada website:
https://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/abbot-pass-hut/
The Government of Canada website:
https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/bc/yoho/culture/abbot
File pertains to 132 35 mm slides depictiong Alpine Club of Canada Camps from 1950, 1951, 1952, and 1960, consisting mostly of shots of people hiking, climbing, and mountaineering in and around the Lake O'Hara and Mt. Assiniboine areas.
Contents include:
1950 - Maligne (1-19)
1951 - Lake O'Hara (21…
File pertains to 132 35 mm slides depictiong Alpine Club of Canada Camps from 1950, 1951, 1952, and 1960, consisting mostly of shots of people hiking, climbing, and mountaineering in and around the Lake O'Hara and Mt. Assiniboine areas.
Contents include:
1950 - Maligne (1-19)
1951 - Lake O'Hara (21-69)
1952 - Mt. Assiniboine (71-124)
1952 - Mt. Assiniboine from Monica & Dudley (126-129)
1950 - Sent to [Bill Goodrich] from '50 Maligne Camp, [Bill Goodrich] on trail to glacier (131)
1960 - B-J HWY (Sent to [Bill Goodrich])
Mt. Saskatchewan (133)
Mt. Chephren (134)
Athabaska River (135)
Pyramid Mt. (136)
Athabaska Hotel (137)