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Quest into the unknown : my life as a climbing nomad
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25028
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2019
- Author
- Howard, Tony
- Publisher
- Sheffield (England) : Vertebrate Publishing
- Call Number
- G512 Qu47 H69
1 website
- Author
- Howard, Tony
- Publisher
- Sheffield (England) : Vertebrate Publishing
- Published Date
- 2019
- Physical Description
- x, 425 pages : color illustrations
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Biography
- Abstract
- Tony Howard rose to fame in 1965 as a member of a group of young climbers from northern England who made the first British ascent of Norway’s Troll Wall; a climb described by Joe Brown as, ‘One of the greatest ever achievements by British rock climbers’. Tony went on to design the modern sit harness, now used universally by every climber in the world. He founded the company Troll Climbing Equipment but never stopped exploring. Quest into the Unknown is his story. Tony has dedicated his life to travelling the world in search of unclimbed rock faces and remote trekking adventures. The scale of his travels is vast: he has visited all of the North African countries, much of the Arab land of the Middle East, the mountainous regions of Scandinavia, Canada and the rocky spine of the Americas, the Himalaya, remote Indian provinces, South East Asia, Madagascar, South Georgia and Antarctica. This book, the last word in adventure travel, takes the reader from Tony’s youth spent developing the crags of the English Peak District, via whaling ships in the Southern Ocean, thousand-mile canoe trips in the Canadian Arctic, living amongst the Bedouin in the rocky mountains of Jordan, to the isolated opium tribes of Thailand. Tony Howard’s Quest into the Unknown is the jaw-dropping account of a life of adventure that is the very definition of true exploration. (from Vertebrate Publishing website)
- Contents
- Precis
- Part One
- Part Two
- Postscript
- Acknowledgements
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019
- ISBN
- 9781911342830
- Accession Number
- AC638
- Call Number
- G512 Qu47 H69
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Vertebrate Publishing website
Websites
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Alpenglow : the finest climbs on the 4000m peaks of the Alps
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25035
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2019
- Author
- Tibbetts, Ben
- Publisher
- [Hereford] : Ben Tibbetts
- Call Number
- DQ841 A46 T53 O.S.
1 website
- Author
- Tibbetts, Ben
- Publisher
- [Hereford] : Ben Tibbetts
- Published Date
- 2019
- Physical Description
- 320 pages : illustrations (color)
- Subjects
- Photography
- Alps
- Mountaineering
- Switzerland
- Italy
- France
- Art
- Abstract
- Is an inspiring book of photographs, stories and drawings describing The Finest Climbs on the 4000m Peaks of the Alps (from Ben Tibbetts website)
- Contents
- Introduction
- Practicalities
- Endnotes
- Bernina Alps
- Bernese Alps
- Pennine Alps
- Mont Blanc Massif
- Gran Paradiso
- Ecrins
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival finalist for Mountain Image
- Photographs, drawings and text by Ben Tibbetts
- ISBN
- 9781916123106
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- DQ841 A46 T53 O.S.
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Author's website
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Training for the uphill athlete : a manual for mountain runners and ski mountaineers
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25036
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2019
- Author
- Jornet, Kilian
- House, Steve
- Johnston, Scott
- Publisher
- Ventura, CA : Patagonia Books
- Call Number
- GV T73 J67
1 website
- Publisher
- Ventura, CA : Patagonia Books
- Published Date
- 2019
- Physical Description
- 375 pages : color illustrations
- Subjects
- Training
- Sports
- Running
- Skiing
- Mountaineering
- Abstract
- Training for the Uphill Athleete translates theory into methodolgoy to allow you to write your own training plans and coach yourslef to your endurance goals. This is the only book that presents training principles for athletes who regularly partipate in distance running, ski mountaineering, skimo, and other sports that require optimum fitness and customized strength....This book collectes the scientically backed and athelete-tested wisdom and experience of the best uphill athletes and educates outdoor athletes to develop plans to perform their best. (from back cover)
- Contents
- The physiological basis of endurance training -- The methodological basis of endurance training -- Strength and the uphill athlete -- How to train.
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019 finalist for Guidebooks
- ISBN
- 9781938340840
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- GV T73 J67
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Uphill Athlete website with training plans and book summary
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Rising : becoming the first Canadian woman to summit Everest : a memoir
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25043
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2019
- Author
- Wood, Sharon
- Publisher
- Madeira Park, BC : Douglas & MacIntyre
- Edition
- 1st
- Call Number
- G512 R57 W66
1 website
- Author
- Wood, Sharon
- Edition
- 1st
- Publisher
- Madeira Park, BC : Douglas & MacIntyre
- Published Date
- 2019
- Physical Description
- xi, 228 pages : colour illustrations
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Biography
- Women
- Everest, Mount
- Abstract
- In 1986, as part of a Canadian team, Sharon Wood became the first woman from the Americas to summit Mount Everest—and the first woman in the world to do so via the West Ridge from Tibet and without Sherpa support. But it’s how she got there that is truly compelling. In Rising, the personal motivation that drove Wood to reach further and further heights are detailed through the years leading up to the career-defining climb. Often the only woman on expeditions, Wood was an outlier in a predominantly male bastion of high altitude alpine climbing. Against the backdrop of the stunning Himalayan mountains in the days before Everest became as commercialized as it is today, Wood explores the camaraderie and rivalry, the relatable challenges of falling in and out of love, and how she kept her drive to persevere. Subsequently, she recounts how she struggled with unexpected acclaim and expectations following her ascent of Everest, but ultimately found fulfilment and her place in the world. As she tells her story today, her perspective is steeped in six decades of life experience rich with adrenalin, change, reflection and humility. It is a tale that still feels poignantly relevant—a testament to the strength of the human spirit to overcome all obstacles, whether mountain peaks, social expectations or self-imposed barriers. (from Douglas & McIntyre website)
- Contents
- Preface -- Part 1. 1. The promise -- 2. Neighbours -- 3. Friends, nomads and spirits -- 4. Rescue -- 5. Weight -- 6. The power of story -- 7. Redemption -- 8. One hundred trips -- 9. Proving grounds -- 10. Mentors and muses -- 11. Shit, grin and yin -- 12. Ya gotta want it -- 13. Small plans -- 14. The meeting -- 15. Glory or death -- 16. Commitment -- 17. Summit day -- Part 2. 18. Into the dark -- 19. Coming down -- 20. Lost -- 21. On stage, off stage -- 22. Reunion.
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019 finalist for Mountain Literature (non-fiction)
- ISBN
- 9781771622257
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G512 R57 W66
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Douglas & McIntyre website
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Summits of my life : daring adventures on the world's greatest peaks
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25020
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Jornet, Kilian
- Publisher
- Boulder, Colorado : VeloPress
- Call Number
- G512 J67 S86
1 website
- Author
- Jornet, Kilian
- Publisher
- Boulder, Colorado : VeloPress
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- 201 pages : illustrations
- Subjects
- Travel
- Mountaineering
- Mont Blanc
- Matterhorn
- Elbruz, Mount
- Denali
- Everest, Mount
- Running
- Skiing
- Biography
- Abstract
- Summits of My Life is the personal project of Kilian Jornet, in which for five years he has traveled to some of the most important peaks of the planet to try to establish FKT (fastest known time) of ascent and descent of some of the most emblematic mountains of the world. The project is closely linked to values and a way of understanding the purist and minimalist mountain. The experiences lived in each challenge have been captured in different films. (from author's website)
- Contents
- The project of my life
- The Challenges
- The Mont Blanc Traverse
- Mont Blanc
- The Matterhorn
- Mount Elbrus
- Denali
- Aconcagua
- Mount Everest
- Forged in dreams and emotions
- Notes
- Kilian Jornet ; translated from Catalan by Nathan Douglas.
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019
- ISBN
- 9781937715908
- Accession Number
- AC638
- Call Number
- G512 J67 S86
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Author's project website including films related to the ascents and decents in book
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No easy way : the challenging life of the climbing taxman
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25041
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Fowler, Mick
- Publisher
- Sheffield : Vertebrate Publishing
- Call Number
- G512 N64 F69
1 website
- Author
- Fowler, Mick
- Publisher
- Sheffield : Vertebrate Publishing
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- ix, 241 pages : illustrations
- Subjects
- Biography
- Mountaineering
- Travel
- Abstract
- In No Easy Way, his third volume of climbing memoirs following Vertical Pleasure and On Thin Ice, Fowler recounts a series of expeditions to stunning mountains in China, India, Nepal and Tibet. Alongside partners including Paul Ramsden, Dave Turnbull, Andy Cave and Victor Saunders, he attempts striking, technically challenging unclimbed lines on Shiva, Gave Ding and Mugu Chuli – with a number of ascents winning prestigious Piolets d’Or, the Oscars of the mountaineering world. Written with his customary dry wit and understatement, he manages challenges away – the art of securing a permit for Tibet – and at home – his duties as Alpine Club president – all the while pursuing his passion for exploratory mountaineering. (from Vertebrate Publishing website)
- Contents
- The competing priorities of life -- Grosvenor: The dangers of cupping -- Kalaqiao: Hands drawn together in prayer -- The Goody Cash: Scottish sea cliffs at their best -- Manamcho: I've never seen a white man before -- Nottingham Castle 1: Challenges close to the office -- Vasuki Parbat: The judgement game -- Fell running: A new mildly eccentric form of exercise? -- Jura success: A passion is born -- Sulamar: The hottest bathtub ever -- The Xiate Trail: Trade routes can be challenging too -- Alpine Club: The establishment beckons -- Mugu Chuli: The bureaucrats go climbing -- Nottingham Castle 2: A brush with the constabulary -- The Prow of Shiva: Are we good enough to do it? -- Kishtwar Kailash: A very special drive and a 12.5-million-view video clip -- Talking about it... -- Hagshu: The bear, the tension, and the climb -- Gave Ding: True adventure -- Sersank: Never too old -- The challenges never end.
- ISBN
- 9781911342755
- Accession Number
- AC693
- Call Number
- G512 N64 F69
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Vertebrate Publishing website
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Unknown pleasures : collected writing on life, death, climbing and everything in between
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25046
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Kirkpatrick, Andy
- Publisher
- Vertebrate Publishing
- Call Number
- P U55 K57
1 website
- Author
- Kirkpatrick, Andy
- Publisher
- Vertebrate Publishing
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- 1 volume : illustrations (black and white)
- Subjects
- Essays
- Mountaineering
- Poetry
- Abstract
- Obsessed with climbing and addicted to writing, Kirkpatrick is a master storyteller. Covering subjects as diverse as climbing, relationships, fatherhood, mental health and the media, it is easy to read, sometimes difficult to digest, and impossible to forget. One moment he is attempting a rare solo ascent of Norway’s Troll Wall, the next he is surrounded by the TV circus while climbing Moonlight Buttress with the BBC’s The One Show presenter Alex Jones. Yosemite’s El Capitan is ever-present; he climbs it alone – strung out for weeks, and he climbs it with his thirteen-year-old daughter Ella – her first big wall. His eye for observation and skilled wordcraft make for laugh-out-loud funny moments, while in more hard-hitting pieces he is unflinchingly honest about past and present love and relationships, and pulls no punches with an alternative perspective of our place in the world. (from Vertebrate Publishing website)
- Contents
- Preface
- Introduction
- Illustrations
- Climbing, Expeditions and Adventures
- Bad Poetry : The Mountain
- Bad Poetry : Winter
- Bad Poetry : Poly Wall
- Epilogue : What I've Learned
- Notes
- Acknowledgements
- ISBN
- 9781911342724
- Accession Number
- AX639
- Call Number
- P U55 K57
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Vertebrate Publishing website
Websites
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End of the rope : mountains, marriage, and motherhood
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25047
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Redford, Jan
- Publisher
- Berkeley, California : Counterpoint Press
- Call Number
- G512 E53 R43
1 website
- Author
- Redford, Jan
- Publisher
- Berkeley, California : Counterpoint Press
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- x, 303 pages, 24 unnumbered pages of plates
- Subjects
- Rock climbing
- Mountaineering
- Women
- Biography
- Abstract
- In this funny and gritty debut memoir, praised by Outside, Sierra, Alpinist, and more, Jan Redford grows from a reckless rock climber to a mother who fights to win back her future. As a teenager, she sets her sights on the improbable dream of climbing mountains. By age twenty, she’s a climber with a magnetic attraction to misadventures and the wrong men. Redford finally finds the love of her life, an affable Rockies climber. When he is killed in an avalanche in Alaska, a grieving Redford finds comfort in the arms of another extreme alpinist. Before long, they are married, with a baby on the way. While her husband works as a logger, Redford tackles the traditional role of wife and mother. But soon, she pursues her own dream, one that pits her against her husband. End of the Rope is Redford’s telling of heart-stopping adventures, from being rescued off El Capitan to leading a group of bumbling cadets across a glacier. It is her laughter-filled memoir of friendships with women in that masculine world. Most moving, this is the story of her struggle to make her own way in the mountains and in life. To lead, not follow. (from Counterpoint Press website)
- Contents
- First climb -- On the rocks -- Lion's layback -- The rescue -- Speed ruts -- Learning to roll -- Bugaboo -- World's toughest milkman -- Fragile ice -- We're gathered here today -- Aberdeen -- Show no fear -- Climbing girlfriend -- The final last straw -- The memo -- In the arms of a mountain -- The underwear drawer -- Teetering on the edge -- Pink wedding dress -- The waiting -- Miracles -- Into the shadows -- Back on the sharp end -- Yodel village -- You lead, I'll follow -- Carsick -- Die young, stay pretty -- Grant's lunch -- Fractured -- Playing dead -- Mama spiders -- Remember the lilac -- Power surge -- Leaving Chaba -- Only four years -- One little "non" -- Second chances.
- ISBN
- 9780345812315
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G512 E53 R43
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Counterpoint Press website
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As above, so below : a climbing story
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25049
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Kalman, Christ (author)
- Muderlak, Craig (illustrator)
- Publisher
- Herndon, VA : Mascot Books
- Call Number
- P A83 K35
1 website
- Publisher
- Herndon, VA : Mascot Books
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- vii, 103 pages : illustrations
- Subjects
- Fiction
- Mountaineering
- Patagonia
- Abstract
- As Above, So Below is a 103 page fictional climbing story set in Argentine Patagonia. When something goes wrong high up a mountain, one man is forced to face his inner demons along the way to the summit. This beautiful hardbound book was published in 2018 as a limited edition of 1000 copies. The story was illustrated by the immensely talented Craig Muderlak, and edited and revised at the The Banff Centre’s prestigious Mountain and Wilderness Writing Workshop. As Above, So Below has been described as "Jack London's To Build a Fire for climbing", and reminiscent of James Salter's Solo Faces. In September of 2018, it was nominated for the Mountain Fiction Award at the Banff Mountain Book and Film Festival in Banff, Canada. (from author's website)
- Contents
- Acknowledgements
- Day One
- Day Two
- Day Three
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2018 finalist for Mountain Fiction
- ISBN
- 9781684019694
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- P A83 K35
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on author's website
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Ueli Steck : my life in climbing
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25051
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Steck, Ueli (author)
- Steinback, Karin (co-author)
- Bierling, Billi (translator)
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- G512 U45 S74
1 website
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- 214 pages : illustrations
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Biography
- Switzerland
- Nepal
- Abstract
- A climber of incredible strength, Ueli Steck set climbing records for speed and endurance that no one had previously thought possible. This deeply personal and revealing memoir, Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing, is the only one of his books to be published in English. In 2016, Ueli established a new speed record on Eiger’s North Face—beating his own record! That same year he climbed all 82 four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps within 62 days (traveling between the peaks by bicycle), and summited Annapurna’s south face in 28 hours. But the dramatic events of the previous two years—the internationally reported conflict with Sherpas at Mount Everest, and the discovery of Alex Lowe’s body on Shishapangma—changed him and made him rethink his approach to the mountains. After withdrawing from the sport for a period, Ueli rediscovered his love of climbing, and in this memoir he explains how his perspective changed. While his drive to achieve in the mountains hadn’t diminished, an evaluation of his experiences helped him find a new way to process the emotional and mental challenges that shaped his athletic outlook. Structured around key climbs, Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing provides the history of each mountain and route, Ueli’s reasons for attempting it, what happened on each climb itself, and what he learned from the experience. It also includes some fascinating insights into his training regimen. Ueli infuses his story with the joy and freedom of climbing and running. He is honest, direct and, at times, exhibits the self-absorption common to many elite athletes. Ultimately, however, his experiences brought him to a place of self-awareness and he was no longer the same climber who first set the speed record on the Eiger’s North Face. Ueli was determined that he would take only acceptable risks. Unfortunately, Ueli’s bar for risk was still very high—he died while on a training climb on the Himalayan peak Nuptse on April 30, 2017. (from Mountaineers Books website)
- Contents
- Everest : when the world suddenly changes -- Annapurna I : first the glory, then the fall from grace -- Shishapangma : a step too far -- All 4000-meter peaks in the Alps : rediscovering the joy of climbing -- Eiger : the fascination of speed -- Afterword by Steve House -- Translator's note.
- ISBN
- 9781680511321
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G512 U45 S74
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Mountaineers Books website
Websites
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Honouring high places : the mountain life of Junko Tabei
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19852
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Tabei, Junko
- Rolfe, Helen Y.
- Publisher
- Victoria, BC : Rocky Mountain Books Ltd
- Edition
- 1st ed.
- Call Number
- G512 T33 H66
1 website
- Author
- Tabei, Junko
- Rolfe, Helen Y.
- Responsibility
- Junko Tabei and Helen Y. Rolfe, translated by Yumiko Hiraki and Rieko Holtved
- Edition
- 1st ed.
- Publisher
- Victoria, BC : Rocky Mountain Books Ltd
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 376 pages
- Abstract
- "A collection of personal stories and reflections based on the memoirs of Junko Tabei, the first woman to climb Mount Everest and the Seven Summits. Honouring High Places is a compelling collection of highlights from Junko Tabei's stirring life that she considered important, inspiring and interesting to mountaineering culture. Until now, her works have been available only in Japanese, and RMB is honoured to be sharing these profound and moving stories with the English-speaking world for the first time. The collection opens on Mount Everest, where the first all-women's expedition is met with disaster but pushes on against all odds. The story then shifts to the early years of Tabei's life and reflects on her countryside childhood as a frail girl with no talent for sport, and cultural expectations that ignored her passion for mountains. With reminiscences of the early days of female climbers on Everest, the deaths of fellow mountaineers, Tabei's pursuit of Mount Tomur, a cancer diagnosis, and efforts to restore a love for nature in the surviving youth of the Fukushima earthquake and tsunami that hit Japan in 2011, this beautifully curated collection of essays captures the essence of a notable time and the strength of character of one of the 20th and 21st centuries' female mountaineering pioneers."-- Provided by publisher.
- Contents
- Author's note
- Introduction by Setsuko Kitamura
- Chapter 1 - avalanche!
- Chapter 2 - the meaning of mountains
- Chapter 3 - Annapurna III
- Chapter 4 - Mount Everest
- Chapter 5 - to the top ofthe world
- Chapter 6 - the route
- Chapter 7 - finalists
- Chapter 8 - South Col
- Chapter 9 - the summit
- Chapter 10 - endgame
- Chapter 11 - women on Everest
- Chapter 12 - Mount Tombur, Pobeda Peak
- Chapter 13 - Aconcagua
- Chapter 14 - Carstensz Pyramid
- Chapter 15 - mountains of later life
- About Junko by Masanobu Tabei
- A son's tribute by Shinya Tabei
- Beyond mountains by Setsuko Kitamura
- Life chronology
- Glossary
- Acknowledgements
- References
- Index
- Notes
- Winner of the Mountaineering History category at the 2018 Banff Mountain Book Competition Awards
- ISBN
- 9780771602167
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- G512 T33 H66
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- 2018 Banff Mountain Book Competition Awards website
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Art of freedom : the life and climbs of Voytek Kurtyka
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19901
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
- Call Number
- G512 M16 A78
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Responsibility
- Bernadette McDonald
- Publisher
- Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 326 pages : photographs ; 24 cm
- Abstract
- "A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.
- Contents
- Introduction
- Rock Animal
- Alpinist in Training
- Hindu Kush - Unleashed
- Troll Wall
- Bandaka - The Mordor Beauty
- Hungry for Hunger
- Dancing in the Moment
- Enfant Terrible
- Line against the Sky
- The Shining Wall
- Fork in the Road
- Trango Tower
- Night Naked
- Dance of the Underclings
- Chinese Maharaja
- Metaphysical Think Tank
- The Crux
- Chronology of Selected Climbs
- Acknowledgements
- Notes
- Sources
- Index
- ISBN
- 9781771602129
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- G512 M16 A78
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
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Karakoram : climbing through the Kashmir conflict
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19903
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Swenson, Steve
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- DS485 S94 K37
1 website
- Author
- Swenson, Steve
- Responsibility
- Steven Swenson
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 315 p. : illustrations (some colour)
- Subjects
- Kashmir
- Mountaineering
- Karakoram Range
- Karakorum Mountains
- Pakistan
- Everest, Mount
- Biography
- Abstract
- Pertains to the climbs attempted by Steven Swenson from 1980 to 2015 in the Karakoram range as they related to the Kashmir conflict
- Contents
- Foreward by Greg Child
- Author's note
- Preface
- Map legend
- Map of the Karakoram region
- Chapter 1 - to Pakistan
- Chapter 2 - elusive summits
- Chapter 3 - K2 at last
- Chapter 4 - life and death
- Chapter 5 - Everest
- Chapter 6 - one more try
- Chapter 7 - after 9/11
- Chapter 8 - the killer mountain
- Chapter 9 - the world's hardest mountains
- Chapter 10 - the risk of regret
- Chapter 11 - attack
- Chapter 12 - passing the torch
- Sources
- Acknoledgements
- Index
- ISBN
- 9780594859731
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- DS485 S94 K37
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- American Alpine Club article
Websites
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A mountaineer's life : Allen Steck
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19905
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Steck, Allen
- Publisher
- Ventura, California : Patagonia Books
- Call Number
- G512 S74 M68
1 website
- Author
- Steck, Allen
- Responsibility
- Allen Steck
- Publisher
- Ventura, California : Patagonia Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 254 p, : illustrations (some colour)
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Biography
- Abstract
- Pertains to the life of Allen Steck, rock climber and alpinist.
- Contents
- Forward
- Preface
- Formative years
- Big Climbs
- Childhood, family, and business
- Close calls and other adventures
- Perspectives
- ISBN
- 9781938340703
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- G512 S74 M68
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- American Alpine Club article
Websites
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The magician's glass : character and fate : eight essays on climbing and the mountain life
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19918
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Douglas, Ed
- Publisher
- Sheffield, England : Vertbrate Publishing
- Call Number
- G510 D68 M34
1 website
- Author
- Douglas, Ed
- Responsibility
- Ed Douglas
- Publisher
- Sheffield, England : Vertbrate Publishing
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 192 p .
- Subjects
- Essays
- Mountaineering
- Rock climbing
- Abstract
- The Magician’s Glass by award-winning writer Ed Douglas is a collection of eight recent essays on some of the biggest stories and best-known personalities in the world of climbing. In the title essay, he writes about failure on Annapurna III in 1981, one of the boldest attempts in Himalayan mountaineering on one of the most beautiful lines – a line that remains unclimbed to this day. Douglas writes about bitter controversies, like that surrounding Ueli Steck’s disputed solo ascent of the south face of Annapurna, the fate of Toni Egger on Cerro Torre in 1959 – when Cesare Maestri claimed the pair had made the first ascent, and the rise and fall of Slovenian ace Tomaz Humar. There are profiles of two stars of the 1980s: the much-loved German Kurt Albert, the father of the ‘redpoint’, and the enigmatic rock star Patrick Edlinger, a national hero in his native France who lost his way. In Crazy Wisdom, Douglas offers fresh perspectives on the impact mountaineering has on local communities and the role climbers play in the developing world. The final essay explores the relationship between art and alpinism as a way of understanding why it is that people climb mountains. (from publisher's website)
- Contents
- Foreward by Katie Ives
- The magician's glass
- Stealing Toni Egger
- Searching for Tomaz Humar
- Bit guts
- Crazy wisdom
- What's eating Ueli Steck?
- Lone wolf
- Lines of beauty : the art of climbing
- Acknowledgements
- ISBN
- 9781911342489
- Accession Number
- AC635
- Call Number
- G510 D68 M34
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Publisher's website
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Norton of Everest : the biography of E.F. Norton, soldier and mountaineer
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19919
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Norton, Hugh
- Publisher
- Sheffield, England : Vertebrate Publishing
- Call Number
- G512 N67 N67
1 website
- Author
- Norton, Hugh
- Publisher
- Sheffield, England : Vertebrate Publishing
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 208 p.
- Subjects
- Biography
- Mountaineering
- World War I
- Everest, Mount
- Abstract
- E.F. Norton lived a life of distinction in the declining years of the British Empire. Born into an accomplished, well-travelled family, he followed his heart and enlisted for a professional career as a soldier. A distinguished military career followed, punctuated with indulgences in his passion for exploration and mountaineering. The British Empire was starting to crumble, and Norton would be called upon more than once to rise to a variety of challenges.Norton’s gift for leadership was first demonstrated via his rapid progression through the ranks in the First World War, which paved the way for future leadership appointments, having earned the confidence and respect of those under his command. Events in the Second World War followed suit, when Norton was abruptly assigned the post of acting governor of Hong Kong, entrusted to save the civilian population from imminent Japanese invasion. The 1924 Everest expedition also exemplifies the pattern of having had leadership thrust upon him – in this case when General Charles Bruce was struck down by malaria on the approach march. Leading from the front, Norton set an altitude record for climbing on Everest without supplementary oxygen – a record only bettered in 1978 when Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made the first ascent of Everest without oxygen. Yet tragedy would follow Norton’s achievement, when George Mallory and Andrew Irvine disappeared high on the mountain. In Norton of Everest, Hugh Norton has written sensitively and knowledgably about his father’s remarkable life as mountaineer, soldier, naturalist, artist and family man. As on Everest, the real story is not only the death of the gallant, but also the heroics of the quiet survivors like E.F. Norton. (from publisher's website)
- Contents
- Foreward by Wade Davis
- Preface
- Chapter 1 - The early years
- Chapter 2 - Soldiering
- Chapter 3 - A pen portrait
- Chapter 4 - Mountaineering
- Chapter 5 - The middle years
- Chapter 6 - Acting governor of Hong Kong
- Chapter 7 - Retirement
- Appendices
- Acknowledgements
- ISBN
- 9781910240922
- Accession Number
- AC635
- Call Number
- G512 N67 N67
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Publisher's website
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A century of antics, epics & escapades : the Varsity Outdoor Club, 1917-2017
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19924
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Varsity Outdoor Club
- Publisher
- Vancouver, B.C. ; University of British Columbia's Varsity Outdoor Club
- Call Number
- G505 V37 A58
1 website
- Author
- Varsity Outdoor Club
- Responsibility
- Varsity Outdoor Club
- Publisher
- Vancouver, B.C. ; University of British Columbia's Varsity Outdoor Club
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 252 p. : illus. (colour)
- Abstract
- The Varsity Outdoor Club has turned 100. To celebrate the rich history of the clubs wilderness (mis-)adventures we’ve independently published the best of our collective stories from the last century into one beautiful coffee table book. The VOC has been intimately tied with the history of hiking, skiing, mountaineering and exploration of Southwestern British Columbia and beyond. From building a wooden cabin on the untamed wilds of Grouse Mountain (in the 1920s), to the first ski crossing of the now ultra-classic, “Neve Traverse” in Garibaldi Park, to modern adventures pushing how far and how fast we can go. Each chapter explores the decades from 1917 to 2017, combining primary written accounts, stunning photos and oral histories of the members into a larger unfolding narrative of the ever-evolving relationship between adventurers and nature. (from Varsity Outdoor Club website)
- Contents
- Foreward
- A history older than ours
- Table of contents
- Timeline
- 1917-1939 - Maps: VOC areas & traverses over time
- 1940s - Decades of Garibaldi Park
- 1950s - Decades of Loganeering
- 1960s - Buildering; decades of socializing
- 1970s - Conservation and advocacy in the VOC; Decades of transportation
- 1980s - Women in the VOC; decades of adventure
- 1900s
- Huts
- Nerdiness in the VOC; Maps: selection of traverses since 2000s & climbing pilgrimages
- 2000s
- VOC portrait: Roland Burton
- VOC marriage proposals
- 2010s
- Beyond 2017
- Acknowledgements
- A note on sources
- Appendix: executive lists
- ISBN
- 9781775043003
- Accession Number
- AC635
- Call Number
- G505 V37 A58
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Varsity Outdoor Club website - publication information
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Fall of heaven : Whymper's tragic Matterhorn climb
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25031
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Messner, Reinhold (author)
- Bierling, Billi (translator)
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- G512 F35 M47
1 website
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 206 pages
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Whymper, Edward
- Biography
- Matterhorn
- Abstract
- As Fall of Heaven begins, we join professional mountain guide Jean-Antoine Carrel as he tries and fails, again and again, to summit the Matterhorn—one of the most famous and iconic peaks in the Alps. Is it the “Devil’s mountain,” as the locals call it? Should he heed the village priest who warned that its summit was not meant to be climbed? Carrel is undeterred, he just needs capable climbers to join him. Enter Edward Whymper, who in 1861 at the age of 21 decided—unbeknownst to Carrel—that he would be the first to climb the Matterhorn. So the storyline is set, except that where Carrel is captivating, Whymper is utterly unsympathetic as an adventurer. He is mean and disdainful of guides, describing them as little more than porters who eat and drink too much. Despite this attitude, Whymper’s quest leads him inexorably into partnership with Carrel. The story follows their many attempts to find a route to the top of the Matterhorn, but then fate pulls them apart just as Whymper finds the line. His successful summit on July 14, 1865, in which Carrel did not take part, shocked the Victorian world with both awe and revulsion as four members of Whymper’s party died in frightening falls. Famed climber and author Reinhold Messner acknowledges that Whymper was the first man to summit the Matterhorn, the last of the great Alpine peaks to be climbed and representing the beginning of an age of alpinism based on difficulty rather than conquest. But rather than leaving a hero’s legacy, Whymper is revealed as the Captain Ahab of alpinism, a team leader who accepted no responsibility for the deaths of his teammates. Fall of Heaven is an exciting tale and an examination of the different types of men who were caught up in the adventuring spirit of the Victorian age, and the ironic fates that can follow success or failure. (from Mountaineers Books website)
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019
- ISBN
- 9781680510850
- Accession Number
- AC638
- Call Number
- G512 F35 M47
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Mountaineers Books website
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The Ogre : biography of a mountain and the dramatic story of the first ascent
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25040
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Scott, Doug
- Publisher
- Sheffield, U.K. : Vertebrate Publishing
- Call Number
- G530 T44 S36
1 website
- Author
- Scott, Doug
- Publisher
- Sheffield, U.K. : Vertebrate Publishing
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- xi, 244 pages : illustrations (chiefly color), maps (on lining papers)
- Subjects
- Pakistan
- Mountaineering
- Accidents
- Travel
- Abstract
- On the afternoon of 13 July 1977, having become the first climbers to reach the summit of the Ogre, Doug Scott and Chris Bonington began their long descent. In the minutes that followed, any feeling of success from their achievement would be overwhelmed by the start of a desperate fight for survival. And things would only get worse. Rising to over 7,000 metres in the centre of the Karakoram, the Ogre – Baintha Brakk – is notorious in mountaineering circles as one of the most difficult mountains to climb. First summited by Scott and Bonington in 1977 – on expedition with Paul ‘Tut’ Braithwaite, Nick Estcourt, Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine – it waited almost twenty-four years for a second ascent, and a further eleven years for a third. The Ogre, by legendary mountaineer Doug Scott, is a two-part biography of this enigmatic peak: in the first part, Scott has painstakingly researched the geography and history of the mountain; part two is the long overdue and very personal account of his and Bonington’s first ascent and their dramatic week-long descent on which Scott suffered two broken legs and Bonington smashed ribs. Using newly discovered diaries, letters and audio tapes, it tells of the heroic and selfless roles played by Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine. When the desperate climbers finally made it back to base camp, they were to find it abandoned – and themselves still a long way from safety. The Ogre is undoubtedly one of the greatest adventure stories of all time. (from Vertebrate Publishing website)
- Contents
- Preface -- Introduction -- PART 1 -- Chapter 1: The Mountain -- Chapter 2: Ancient History of Exploration -- Chapter 3: European Interest in the Region -- Chapter 4: The East India Company -- Chapter 5: Scottish Contribution to Empire -- Chapter 6: The Blanks on the Map -- Chapter 7: Early Mountaineering -- PART 2; Chapter 8: The Climbers -- Chapter 9: March to Base Camp -- Chapter 10: Climbing the Ogre -- Chapter 11: The Epic Descent -- Chapter 12: The Final Stretch -- Afterword -- Acknowledgements -- Further Reading -- The Author -- More books by Doug Scott.
- ISBN
- 9781911342793
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G530 T44 S36
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Vertebrate Publishing website
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Himalaya - the tribulations of mick & vic
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25045
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Fowler, Mick
- Saunders, Victor
- Publisher
- LULU.COM
- Call Number
- G512 H56 F69
1 website
- Author
- Fowler, Mick
- Saunders, Victor
- Publisher
- LULU.COM
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 267 pages : ill.
- Abstract
- Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders, famed British alpinists learned to know each other while winter climbing in Scotland, in all kind of weather, mostly bad: an ideal stepping stone for great Himalayan adventures. They shared three expeditions in Pakistan: The ascents of Bojohagur (7329m), Spantik (7027m) and Ultar (7388m). The tales of these selected adventures, published separately over three of their books (rewarded several times - Banff festival, Boardman Tasker), have been assembled in a new book: HIMALAYA - Mick and Vic' Tribulations. The two pals' tales are intertwined and offer two visions sometimes similar, sometimes different of the same events, with a caustic humour at the turn of every single line. This refreshing, compelling text full of funny and uncommon anecdotes is also the story of their strong friendship. Besides the amateurs of mountaineering tales, this book should please the amateurs of unconventional atmospheres. (from Lulu website)
- Contents
- Forward
- Prelude
- Part One - in Great-Britain
- Part Two - Bojohaghur, 1984
- Part Three - Spantik, 1987
- Part Four - Ultar, 1991
- Apologue
- Twenty Nine Years After
- ISBN
- 9781326804817
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G512 H56 F69
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on LULU website
Websites
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