Narrow Results By
The day the rope broke : the story of the first ascent of the Matterhorn - and its strange and tragic aftermath
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue14623
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1965
- Author
- Clark, Ronald W
- Publisher
- New York : Harcourt, Brace & World, Inc
- Call Number
- 01.2 C54d
- Author
- Clark, Ronald W
- Responsibility
- by Ronald W. Clark
- Publisher
- New York : Harcourt, Brace & World, Inc
- Published Date
- 1965
- Physical Description
- 221 pages : illustrations, maps ; 22 cm
- Subjects
- Matterhorn
- Mountaineering
- Switzerland
- Notes
- Includes bibliographical references
- Accession Number
- 2015.8533
- Call Number
- 01.2 C54d
- Collection
- Archives Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
Mountaineering : the freedom of the hills
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19829
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1960
- Author
- The Mountaineers, Seattle
- Publisher
- Seattle : The Mountaineers
- Edition
- 1st ed.
- Call Number
- 01 M86 1963
- Author
- The Mountaineers, Seattle
- Responsibility
- planned by the Climbing Committee of the Mountaineers
- Harvey Manning, chairman of editors
- editorial committee: John R. Hazle and others
- illus: Donna Balch Cook and Robert Cram
- Edition
- 1st ed.
- Publisher
- Seattle : The Mountaineers
- Published Date
- 1960
- Physical Description
- x, 430p. : ill
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Manuals
- Equipment
- Camping
- Travel
- Rock climbing
- Snow
- Ice
- Ice climbing
- First aid
- Geology
- Abstract
- Pertains to how to safely mountaineer with a focus on North America as per the Mountaineers Climbing Committee
- Contents
- Preface
- Part One - Approaching the Peaks
- Equipment
- Camping and Sleeping
- Alpine Cuisine
- Wilderness Travel
- Navigation in the Hills
- Part Two - Rock Climbing
- Routefinding on Rock
- Balance
- Counterforce
- Roped Climbing
- Belaying
- Pitoncraft and Rappels
- Part Three - Snow and Ice Climbing
- Snow
- Ice
- Glaciers
- Arrests and Belays
- Part Four - Safe Climbing
- The Climbing Party and its Leadership
- Climbing Dangers
- First Aid
- Alpine Rescue
- Part Five - The Climbing Environment
- Mountain Geology
- The Cycle of Snow
- Mountain Weather
- Appendix - Food Requirements for Climbers
- ISBN
- 0916890015
- Accession Number
- 2019.43
- Call Number
- 01 M86 1963
- Collection
- Archives Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
The Alps and alpinism
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20182
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1968
- Author
- Lukan, Karl
- Publisher
- London, Thames & Hudson
- Call Number
- 01.2 L96t
- Author
- Lukan, Karl
- Responsibility
- Karl Lukan (editor)
- Hugh Merrick (translator)
- Christian Bonington (introduction)
- Publisher
- London, Thames & Hudson
- Published Date
- 1968
- Physical Description
- 200 pages illustrations (12 color), facsimiles, portraits
- Abstract
- Pertains to the history of mountaineering the Alps
- Contents
- Foreward
- Acknowledgements
- Introduction
- Life in the Alps
- Climbers in the Alps
- The Development of Skiing
- Sport Among the Rapids
- Building in the Alps
- Artists and the Alps
- Mountain Photography and Films
- Notes
- Originally published as Alpinismus in Bildern. Vienna, Schroll, 1967.
- Accession Number
- AC637
- Call Number
- 01.2 L96t
- Collection
- Archives Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
Les conquerants de l'inutile : des Alpes a l'Annapurna
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19925
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1961
- Author
- Terray, Lionel
- Publisher
- France : Gallimard
- Edition
- 1st
- Call Number
- G512 T47 L47
1 website
- Author
- Terray, Lionel
- Responsibility
- Lionel Terray
- Edition
- 1st
- Publisher
- France : Gallimard
- Published Date
- 1961
- Physical Description
- 560 p. ; 88 illus. ; maps
- Abstract
- "All these faces that appear in close-up in the news or in the press are also men. The name of Lionel Terray, one of the most famous living mountaineers, comes back periodically in conversations, because he participated in a rescue or because he helped to conquer a great world summit like Annapurna or the Makalu. In The Conquerors of the Useless , it is the whole mountain and its secrets that it reveals to us without emphasis and especially without pretension. We see how a little boy can already sense his vocation and soon to live only for the mountain; how this passion led him from the Alps to the Himalayas, from Canada to Peru. Each story of his prodigious ascensions will fascinate those who know the mountain only through the cable car. Indeed, this book that Lionel Terray wrote entirely himself using notes and stories in which he fixed his memories throughout his career, was written for them. The Conquerors of the Useless is an indispensable book for anyone interested in the heroic fate of the last survivors of the Knights race. " (from publisher's website)
- Contents
- Decouverte de la montagne
- Premieres conquetes
- La guerre des Alpes
- Je rencontre Lachenal
- La face nord de l'Eiger
- Guide de grandes courses
- L'Annapurna
- Sur les sommets du monde
- Notes
- EVE-DELACROIX PRIZE OF THE FRENCH ACADEMY 1962
- French edition signed by Lionel Terray
- Newsclipping tucked inside entitled "La mort de Lionel Terray a stufefie les membres du Ski Club"
- ISBN
- 2070262146
- Accession Number
- AC636
- Call Number
- G512 T47 L47
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Publication information on publisher's website
Websites
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
International Symposium of Problems of High Altitude, Darjeeling, India, Januaey 1962 : [papers]
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue4058
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1962
- Call Number
- 02.7 In8
- Published Date
- 1962
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Search and rescue
- Notes
- 1 volume
- Call Number
- 02.7 In8
- Collection
- Archives Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
History of Lake O'Hara in the Canadian Rockies at Hector, British Columbia, Canada
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue8184
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1961
- Author
- Gest, Lillian
- Call Number
- 08.3 Oh1g Pam
- Author
- Gest, Lillian
- Published Date
- 1961
- Physical Description
- 38p
- Subjects
- Artists
- Mountaineering
- Names, Geographical
- Notes
- Bibliography and first ascents
- Accession Number
- 5142 (2)
- Call Number
- 08.3 Oh1g Pam
- Collection
- Archives Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
- Part Of
- Margaret Gold Brine fonds
- Scope & Content
- One file pertaining to Alpine Club of Canada correspondence and supporting documents, climbing diary 1920, newspaper articles and additional mountaineering documentation.
- Date Range
- 1919-1928, 1984
- Reference Code
- M147 / 1
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- Part Of
- Margaret Gold Brine fonds
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- Series
- Textual Records
- Accession Number
- 7746
- Reference Code
- M147 / 1
- Date Range
- 1919-1928, 1984
- Physical Description
- 1.5 cm of textual records.
- History / Biographical
- Margaret Gold Brine, 1898-1985, born in Fort Langley, B.C. was educated at the University of Alberta earning her Master's in languages. She taught at the University of Alberta from 1924 to ca.1928. She married Charles Brine in 1928. Margaret Gold Brine climbed in the Canadian Rockies and the Alps with ascents that included Mount Edmonton, Mount Assiniboine, Mount Robson and Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn.
- Scope & Content
- One file pertaining to Alpine Club of Canada correspondence and supporting documents, climbing diary 1920, newspaper articles and additional mountaineering documentation.
- Subject Access
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Mount Edmonton
- Mount Assiniboine
- Mount Robson
- Matterhorn
- Mountaineering
- Quesnel Heights
- Content Details
- File includes: 1920 climbing diary. Small green, flips open. Written on cover “London: Guarantee and Accident Company, Limited”. Entirety of diary is written in pencil. “Margaret H. Gold” written on cover page. July 20, 1920-August 14, 1920. Diary outlines trip in Calgary, travel and leisure experiences in Banff, climb of Norquay, trip to Sunshine Camp, Quartz Mountain, Mount Edmonton, Naiset, Terrapin, Lake Magog camp, Divine Service from Mr Sanreign from Vancouver, Assiniboine climb, return to Banff and Calgary. Typed transcript of 1920 climbing diary. 3 pages. Manuscript "The Ascent of Mount Edmonton"' Cyril G. Wates, 1920. Typed manuscript in green cover, 3 pages. Description of trip begins July 26, 1920. Detailed description of climb undertaken with Dr. H. E. Bulyea, Miss. M. Gold and Miss H. Glyde. “The Alpine Club of Canada The Gazette December 1922”. Enclosed “Referendum Ballot for Location” for the 1923 camp. Articles include: New Years Greeting from Arthur O. Wheeler, article about the 1923 camp location, article regarding the “Palliser Pass Camp, 1922”, “Annual Meeting, 1922”, “The Club House”, “Minutes of General Meeting, Dec. 9th, 1922”, “Alterations in the Constitution”, “Alterations in the Membership List”, “A Flight Round Mt. Robson and Mt. Sir Alexander”, “Mountain Fellowship”, “The Winthrop Ellsworth Stone Collection of Photographs and Slides”, “General Notes”, “Notes from the Sections”. “The Alpine Club of Canada The Gazette June 1925”. Articles include: “O’Hara Lake Camp”, “Mt. Logan Expedition” written by Arthur O. Wheeler, financial “Contributions to Mt. Logan Expedition”, “Aronragua”, “Human Remains”, “Special Meeting”, “Obituary” for Sir James Outram, Mrs. T. B. Moffat, Rev. C. Travers Melly, Miss K. Keershaw, Christian Hasler, Sr., “Mrs. J. M. Young” obituary, “Invitations”, “Fire”, “Activities of Members”, “General Notes”, “Notes from the Sections”. Handwritten in pencil on the back of the Gazette: “I’m just a little p. fork; But I carry wishes bright; That your future may be happy; And ever clear and bright; That Heaven may smile upon you; Wherever you may be; And grant you cakes and bread and jam; And pickles too- for tea.” Letter from John Murray Gibbon concerning the formation of the Trail Riders of the Canadian Rockies, 1924 Alpine Club of Canada Edmonton Section Nineteenth Anniversary Banquet program, menu and Programme of Summer Outings on cardstock. April 1, 1925. Miss Margaret Gold is listed as on the Executive Committee. “Choice of liquid refreshment as below: Tea Tea Tea Tea Tea Tea Tea”. Miss Margaret Gold “Song—‘The Morning Wind’ (Branscombe)” and “The Ascent of Mount Robson”. “Songs of Canadian Climbers” pamphlet “dedicated to the Alpine Club of Canada”. Includes 64 songs and 1 black and white photograph of the 1920 Welcome Home camp at Mt. Assiniboine. “Alpine Club of Canada ‘Song of the Edmonton Section’ Souvenir of the Official Opening of the Alpine Hut at Quesnell Heights February 27th, 1926.” Pamphlet contains two pages of sheet music and lyrics. “Limericks” 1 page typed. Nine four line limericks related to climbing. “Climbing Mt. Everest Kinematograph Lecture” at the Philharmonic Hall in Great Portland St. in December. Program describes the 1922 trip, which did not gain the summit but reached close to 27,000 feet without oxygen and the second party went an additional 250 feet with oxygen, and the Tibetan music. Handwritten receipt from the Alpine Club of Canada for the year of 1919, Nov. 10, 1919 and the fee of $7. Letter from the Secretary Treasurer S. H. Mitchell dated November 10, 1919 regarding Gold’s fault at not being on the ballot for election due to her late entry and assures of her inclusion on the spring ballot. Discussion of the site Mr. Wheeler picked for the Assiniboine Camp. Form letter from the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, June 9, 1921 regarding summer holiday plans and advertising different destinations, including Vancouver, Victoria, Banff, Wapta and Eastern Canada. Written on the back is a response to the ACC regarding her application for a badge. Letter from the Secretary Treasurer S. H. Mitchell dated November 23, 1922 discussing her envy of Gold’s time and travels in Paris and the surrounding areas, requesting an article for the Journal to be submitted before the end of March, regarding indecision on the site for the camp, need for one additional climb before Gold earns her badge and smaller number of individuals voting this year. Letter from the Alpine Club of Canada to Miss M. H. Gold in Paris regarding membership fees due on January 1, 1923. Fee $10. Letter from the Alpine Club of Canada to Miss M. H. Gold in Edmonton regarding membership fees due on January 1, 1923. Fee $10. Group letter inviting mountaineers, members of the Alpine Club of Canada and not, to celebrate Saturn’s day on July 7, 1923 “upon pain of being dropped into a Crevasse”. Letter dated July 1, 1923. Handwritten receipt from the Alpine Club of Canada for the year of 1923 and 1924 and the fee of $15. Letter from the Secretary Treasurer S. H. Mitchell dated May 10, 1924 regarding Gold’s potential attendance of the Camp to the Mt. Robson country, declining her offer to write an article for the Journal, discussion of the unsuitability of the word “hiker”. Form letter from the Trail Riders of the Canadian Rockies with “Sir” crossed out and Madam typed beside. May 22, 1924. Letter describes the founding of the Trail Riders of the Canadian Rockies, the buttons and letterhead prepared, and inquires about interest in membership. 2 typed pages. Letter from the Alpine Club of Canada to Miss M. H. Gold in Edmonton regarding membership fees due on January 1, 1928. Fee $7.50. Matt photograph of “The Ramparts” printed on card and used as greeting card which on the back reads “All kinds of good wishes Mrs. Brine and Charlie from Mr. and Mrs. C. G. Wates.” Newspaper article pertaining to philanthropy of Margaret Brine, “Arts benefactor Brine is still one classy lady”, by Ron Chalmers. Written in pencil “1984?” Article describes her philanthropic contributions to the arts and gives a brief background of her life and climbs. “Robson Climb Was Veritable Death Gamble” July 31, 1924. In depth description of third successful climb of Robson undertaken by A. O. Wheeler, T. B. Moffat, M. D. Geddes and Harry Pollard and unsuccessfully taken by Dr. Munroe Thorrington and a companion. “Woman Alpinist On Holiday Here” Victoria Daily Times September 1, 1925. Article describes Gold’s education and teaching background, travel, Matterhorn climb and Mount Robson climb. “Edmonton Girl Has Conquered Mount Robson” 1924. Aug. 2. Description of the unveiling of the Alberta-British Columbia monument on the summit of the Robson Pass, third party to make a successful ascent of Mount Robson, Fore-runners of the party included Miss M. H. Gold the third woman to reach Robson’s peak, L. H. Lindsay, S. C. Montgomery. Description of the officers elected, badge awards, and the unveiling ceremony. “The Philosoph. Goes Climbing: Miss Gold Tells of Mountain Climbing in Alps and Rockies”, Summary of talk given by Miss Gold in her address “On Climbing a Mountain” at the Philosophical Society, including a description of climbing as a cult. “Ascent Beckons Edmonton Climbers” large picture of climbers ascending Naisot Peak with paragraph below describing the climb and explaining that the inset photograph features C. G. Wates and Dr. H. E. Bulyea.
- Processing Status
- Processed
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
Existing huts, hut photos
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions6577
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Scope & Content
- File includes letters and photographs, slides, and negatives of huts.
- Date Range
- 1964-1979
- Reference Code
- M200 / AC 421 / 161
- V14 / AC 421P / 106 - 161
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- GMD
- Photograph
- Photograph print
1 image
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- Fonds Number
- M200 / S6 / V14
- Series
- I.A.2.e. Administration: huts / properties
- Sous-Fonds
- V14
- Accession Number
- 5200
- Reference Code
- M200 / AC 421 / 161
- V14 / AC 421P / 106 - 161
- Date Range
- 1964-1979
- Physical Description
- 1 file of textual records. -- 55 photographs (47 prints, 6 negatives, 2 transparencies).
- Scope & Content
- File includes letters and photographs, slides, and negatives of huts.
- Name Access
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Subject Access
- Abbot Pass Hut
- Activities
- Administration
- Advertising
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Alpine Club House
- Cabins
- Cabins and shelters
- Camps
- Club
- Competition
- Discovery and exploration
- Environment
- Environment and Nature
- Exploration
- Guide
- Guides
- Hiking
- Huts
- Mountain
- Mountain guides
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Mountains
- National parks and reserves
- Organizations
- Photography
- Scenery
- Sports and recreation
- Summit
- Geographic Access
- Banff National Park
- Jasper National Park
- Yoho National Park
- Alberta
- British Columbia
- Canada
- Access Restrictions
- Access to negatives is by appointment only
- Language
- English
- Title Source
- Title based on contents of file
- Processing Status
- Processed
Images
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition scrapbook
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions6290
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Scope & Content
- File consists of a scrapbook containing newspaper clippings and other publications about the Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition from 19 June to 13 August, 1967. Inserts refer to fold-out newspaper clippings and occasionally entire articles and pages throughout the scrapbook.
- Date Range
- 1967
- Reference Code
- M200 / AC 004M / 4
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- GMD
- Scrapbook
1 image
1 Electronic Resource
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- Fonds Number
- M200 / S6 / V14
- Series
- I.A.2.d.ii. Administration: expeditions - Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition
- Sous-Fonds
- AC 004M
- Accession Number
- .
- Reference Code
- M200 / AC 004M / 4
- GMD
- Scrapbook
- Date Range
- 1967
- Physical Description
- 4.5 cm of textual records (108 pages ; 30 x 36.5 cm)
- History / Biographical
- The Alpine Club of Canada was founded in 1906 as a national organization dedicated to climbing, mountaineering, mountain safety, and environmental preservation. It continues to operate throughout Canada and has a headquarters located in Canmore, Alberta.
- Scope & Content
- File consists of a scrapbook containing newspaper clippings and other publications about the Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition from 19 June to 13 August, 1967. Inserts refer to fold-out newspaper clippings and occasionally entire articles and pages throughout the scrapbook.
- Name Access
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Subject Access
- Anniversary
- Backpacking
- Centennial
- Climbing
- Exploration
- History
- Hiking
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Travel
- Geographic Access
- Alberta
- British Columbia
- Yukon
- Ontario
- Canada
- Language
- English
- French
- Title Source
- Title based on contents of file
- Processing Status
- Unprocessed
Electronic Resources
Images
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition records. -- 1966-1967
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55759
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Scope & Content
- File pertains to Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition team applications [1966-1967] and one pad of blank pink YACE application forms. Team applications include: "Good Neighbour Peak" - J. Vincent Hoeman (co-leader), Daniel R. Davis, George H. Denton, John E. (Jed) Williamson, Montague (Monty) Alford…
- Date Range
- 1966-1967
- Reference Code
- M200 / AC 008M / 03
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- GMD
- Organization record
- Textual record
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- Fonds Number
- M200 / S6 / V14
- Series
- I.A.2.d.ii. Administration: expeditions - Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition
- Sous-Fonds
- M200
- Accession Number
- 2021.32
- Reference Code
- M200 / AC 008M / 03
- Date Range
- 1966-1967
- Physical Description
- 2.5 cm of textual records (16 volumes ; 21.6 x 27.9 cm)
- Scope & Content
- File pertains to Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition team applications [1966-1967] and one pad of blank pink YACE application forms. Team applications include: "Good Neighbour Peak" - J. Vincent Hoeman (co-leader), Daniel R. Davis, George H. Denton, John E. (Jed) Williamson, Montague (Monty) Alford (co-leader), Glen W. Boles, Dr. Alan Bruce-Robertson, Leslie McDonald. [This team was half American, half Canadian]. (T-Bone Camp) Mt. British Columbia - Ralph M. J. Hutchinson (leader), Andrew Gruft, Byron E.D. Olson, Karl A. Winter. Mt. Northwest - Patrick D. Baird (leader), James R. Caldwell, James M. Ferguson, Donald C. Morton. Mt. Yukon - Michael MacCallum (leader), Hugo Hohener, Dr. William Louie, James W. White. (Prairie Camp) Mt. Alberta - D. Wayne Smith (leader), Philip J. Dowling, Klaus Hahn, Dr. Gerald A. Wright. Centennial Peak - Waldemar P. (Fips) Broda (leader), Klaus Boeger, Stanley D. Rosenbaum, Jean-Robert (Hans) Weber. Mt. Manitoba - Patrick (Paddy) Sherman (leader), Dr. Raymond Denson, Donald J. Forest, Duncan McDougall. Mt. Ontario - Helmut F. Microys (leader), Sev. A. Heiberg, Alex J. Norman, W. Roland Reader. Mt. Saskatchewan - Miss Gertrude L. Smith (leader), Mrs. Helen Butling, Miss Andrea J. Rankin, Mrs. Wendy F. Teichmann. (Fundy Camp) Mt. New Brunswick - Peter B. Spear (leader), Stephen A. Bezruchka, Christopher Gardner, Robin Lidstone. Mt. Newfoundland - Werner Himmelsbach (leader), Dr. Richard H.M. Roe, Donald W. Soughan, Ian H. Stewart. Mt. Nova Scotia - Robert M. Paul (leader), Commander Frederick W. Crickard C.A.F., Donald M.E. Poole, Maurice A. Tyler. Mt. Prince Edward Island - Norman Purssell (leader), Albert L. Parke, Brenden M. Moss, Christopher J. Smith. Mt. Quebec - Claude Lavallée (leader), André Hébert, Peter W. Hutchins, Hans P. Munger.
- Name Access
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Subject Access
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Centennial
- Climbing
- Club
- Mountains
- Mountaineering
- Geographic Access
- Yukon
- Canada
- Language
- English
- Conservation
- Staples removed
- Title Source
- Title based on material
- Processing Status
- Processed
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.