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12 records – page 1 of 2.

Canada's Everest? Rethinking the first ascent of Mount Logan and the politics of nationhood, 1925

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue12931
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Author
Robinson, Zac
Call Number
01.4 R56c Pam
Author
Robinson, Zac
Responsibility
PearlAnn Reichwein and Zac Robinson
Physical Description
p.95-97 : ill., maps
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Alpine Club of Canada
American Alpine Club
Exploration
Lambart, Fred
MacCarthy, Albert H
Place names
Notes
Scholarly article reprint from Sports History Review, 2004, 35, 95-121
Accession Number
7627
Call Number
01.4 R56c Pam
Collection
Archives Library
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A Century of American alpinism, 2002

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20146
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2002
Author
Fay, Charles Ernest
Bent, Allen Herbert
Palmer, Howard
Thorington, James Monroe
Kauffman, Andrew John
Putnam, William Lowell
Publisher
Boulder, CO : American Alpine Club,
Call Number
G505 F39 C46
  1 website  
Author
Fay, Charles Ernest
Bent, Allen Herbert
Palmer, Howard
Thorington, James Monroe
Kauffman, Andrew John
Putnam, William Lowell
Responsibility
Charles Earnest Fay, Allen Herbert Bent, Howard Palmer, James Monroe Thorington, Andrew John Kauffman, William Lowell Putnam
Publisher
Boulder, CO : American Alpine Club,
Published Date
2002
Physical Description
ix, 196 pages, xxxii pages of plates : illustrations, portraits
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
American Alpine Club
History
Mountaineering
Clubs
Abstract
Pertains to a century of American alpinism from 1902 to 2002
Contents
Forward
Preface
I Earliest American Mountaineers
II Pacific Crests
III Later and Farther North
IV Tidewater Alaska
V Early Amerian Ascents in the Alps
VI Appalachian Mountain Club Roots
VII The Social Aspect of Alpinism
VIII To the Top of the Continent
IX Other Mountain Clubs of America
X Momentous Events
XI Afield and at War
XII Changing Mores
XIII Moving West
XIV Not All Sweetness and Light
XV The Study of Mountain Elevations
XVI Exclusiveness or Inclusiveness
XVII Changing Faces
Appendices
Index
Accession Number
AC637
Call Number
G505 F39 C46
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
American Alpine Club link to book
Websites
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A climber's guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19847
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1930
Author
Palmer, Howard and J. Monroe Thorington
Publisher
[Philadelphia] American Alpine Club
Edition
second edition
Call Number
01.4 P18a
Author
Palmer, Howard and J. Monroe Thorington
Responsibility
Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington
Edition
second edition
Publisher
[Philadelphia] American Alpine Club
Published Date
1930
Physical Description
[244] pages
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
American Alpine Club
Canadian Rocky Mountains
Canadian Rockies
Guide
Mountain guides
Canada
Mountaineering
Abstract
Pertains to a comprehensive climbing guide based on the mountains in the Canadian Rockies. The book was likely to be considered an invaluable resource for mountaineers based on the complexity and detail of the information provided. In detail, the guide offers insight into the approximate locations, elevation gains, climbing distances/time, and additional relevant information pertaining to climbing in the Canadian Rocky Mountains.
Contents
Part one: international boundary to Kicking Horse pass
Part two: Kicking Horse pass to Yellowhead pass
Part three: Yellowhead pass to Jasper pass
Accession Number
2019.48
Call Number
01.4 P18a
Collection
Archives Library
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Columbia Mountains of Canada, Central

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue1032
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1992, 1937
Author
Fox, John Kevin
Publisher
New York : AAC Press
Edition
7th ed
Call Number
F1087 C6 F6 1992
F1087 C6 F6 1992 Copy 2
Author
Fox, John Kevin
Edition
7th ed
Publisher
New York : AAC Press
Published Date
1992, 1937
Physical Description
557 pages, ill., maps,
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
American Alpine Club
Guidebooks
Selkirk Mountains
ISBN
0930410262
Accession Number
AC598 - Copy 2
Call Number
F1087 C6 F6 1992
F1087 C6 F6 1992 Copy 2
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
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The golden years of Canadian mountaineering: asserted ethics, form, and style, 1886-1925

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue12933
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Author
Robinson, Zac
Call Number
01.4 R56g Pam
Author
Robinson, Zac
Physical Description
p.1-19
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Alberta, Mount
Alpine Club (Great Britain)
Alpine Club of Canada
American Alpine Club
Logan, Mount
Mountain guides
Mountaineers, British
Mountaineers, Japanese
Tourism
Notes
Scholarly article reprint from Sport History Review, 2004, 35, 1-19
Accession Number
7627
Call Number
01.4 R56g Pam
Collection
Archives Library
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The Great Glacier and its house : the story of the first center of alpinism in North America, 1885-1925

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20180
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1982
Author
Putnam, William Lowell
Publisher
New York : American Alpine Club
Call Number
01.4 P98t reference
  1 website  
Author
Putnam, William Lowell
Responsibility
Willaim Lowell Putnam
Publisher
New York : American Alpine Club
Published Date
1982
Physical Description
23 pages : illustrations, portraits, map
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Glacier House
Illecillewaet Glacier
Selkirk Mountains
Railway routes
Railway stations
Railways
Tourism
Mountaineering
American Alpine Club
History
Abstract
he hotel is gone and the passenger trains, now rarely on time, go by only once daily. The Great Glacier has all but vanished. The motor traffic on the fast, modern highway sweeps past in ignorance that this deep, half-forgotten, Illecillewaet valley of the Selkirk Mountains, with its dark forests and glittering summits, was the cradle of professional North American mountaineering and, for several decades, the principal Canadian attraction for climbers from three continents. Surely the time has long since passed for someone to tell the story of the early days when geologists, scientists, alpinists, guides, tourists and more than a few of our continent’s empire builders stopped in Glacier, British Columbia to explore, study, climb, earn a modest living, admire the scenery or just rest from their labors. It is most appropriate that William L. Putnam, one of America’s outstanding experts on the Selkirks, should have undertaken the task of writing a history of the area. It is even more appropriate that this history should have been published by The American Alpine Club, whose first president, Professor Charles E. Fay, spent many sunny days over several seasons scaling the region’s unclimbed summits and, as we learn from the text, many rainy weeks in the Old Glacier House where at idle moments he amused himself by analyzing the comments in the hotel’s guest register. The author has labored hard and gone to great lengths to obtain original source material and to check facts. As might be expected, his story begins with the construction of the Canadian Pacific track through Roger’s Pass; without it, the central Selkirks and the outstanding Matterhorn-like crest of Mount Sir Donald would no doubt still be little known and less visited. The absence of dining cars on the early transcontinental express trains, plus the superb view of what was then the awesome Illecillewaet Glacier, led to the building of a small restaurant-hotel by the track some five miles west of the pass. In time that hotel grew to become the Canadian Pacific’s western show-piece. Tourists, scientists, mountaineers and guides arrived in growing numbers. The peaks were measured and climbed, trails were built, caves explored and an electric generator was constructed to light the premises. A pet bear was even provided on the grounds for the entertainment of guests. Then, slowly, the Great Glacier retreated, the railroad was modernized and rerouted through a five-mile tunnel some distance from the hotel, tourists and climbers alike went off to war on the battlefields of France, and the Canadian Pacific shifted its emphasis to its latter-day attraction at Lake Louise in the nearby Rockies. The old hotel was closed, then torn down, and the valley and its glacier almost forgotten. Such is the skeleton of Putnam’s story. But it is far more. Putnam has labored industriously. He has unearthed, and quoted at length, the original on-the-spot observations of the early visitors in the decades between 1890 and 1920. He has recovered ancient photographs, many excellent, to illustrate the stories and anecdotes he recounts. Thanks to his labor of love, those of us who are familiar only with modern mountaineering now have the opportunity to learn what climbing was like in the good old days around the turn of the century. Despite its deceptive scrapbook style, the work is scholarly. It is also highly nostalgic. The author is at his best with the history of the early climbing. One wishes he had personally said more and quoted less—but, then, many of the quotations are memorable. He might also have omitted, or at least modified, the chapter on distant Mount Sir Sandford, for its story, while essential in any broad account of Selkirk climbing, belongs elsewhere and shifts the focus away from the House and the Glacier at the very moment when the reader has become engrossed in both. But these, however, are minor flaws, overshadowed by good research, an entertaining style, excellent history and magnificent illustrations. Samuel H. Goodhue (from American Alpine Club)
Contents
Introduction
The Railroad Track
The House
The Tourists
First Climbers
Men of Science
Alpina Americana
Britannic Majesty
Canadians at Last
Some of the Best
The Last Big Mountain
The Rest is Silence
Appendices
A: The Guides
B: Place Names in the Central Selkirks
Bibliography
Index
Notes
Signed by author - addressed to Hans Gmoser
ISBN
0930410130
Accession Number
AC637
Call Number
01.4 P98t reference
Collection
Archives Library
URL Notes
Link to book review on American Alpine Club website
Websites
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Date
1950 – 1960
Material
metal; rubber
Catalogue Number
108.04.1115
Description
Metal ice piton with rubber end. Note attached: “BERNAYS ICE PITON. MADE BY DAVID BERNAYS (AAC, HMC) CA. 1955 FROM STAINLESS STEEL. MADE AT MASSACHUSETTS INST. OF TECHNOLOGY. DONATED BY EARLE R. WHIPPLE.”
  1 image  
Title
Ice Piton
Date
1950 – 1960
Material
metal; rubber
Description
Metal ice piton with rubber end. Note attached: “BERNAYS ICE PITON. MADE BY DAVID BERNAYS (AAC, HMC) CA. 1955 FROM STAINLESS STEEL. MADE AT MASSACHUSETTS INST. OF TECHNOLOGY. DONATED BY EARLE R. WHIPPLE.”
Subject
Alpine Club of Canada
American Alpine Club
Earle Whipple
David Bernays
sports
climbing
mountaineering
Credit
Gift of Alpine Club of Canada, Canmore, 1985
Catalogue Number
108.04.1115
Images
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Letter of commendation

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions53258
Part Of
Peter and Catharine Whyte fonds
Scope & Content
Image of a letter of thanks from Alpine Club of Canada to Bill Peyto on his rescue of Mrs. W. E. Stone after death of her husband on Mount Eon
Date Range
1922
Reference Code
V683 / III / A / 15 / PA - 825
Description Level
6 / Item
GMD
Photograph
  1 image  
Part Of
Peter and Catharine Whyte fonds
Description Level
6 / Item
Fonds Number
M36 / V683 / S37
Series
V683 / III / A / 15 : Peter and Catharine Whyte: Collected Photographs
Sous-Fonds
V683
Accession Number
.
Reference Code
V683 / III / A / 15 / PA - 825
GMD
Photograph
Date Range
1922
Physical Description
Photograph: 1 print ; b&w.
Scope & Content
Image of a letter of thanks from Alpine Club of Canada to Bill Peyto on his rescue of Mrs. W. E. Stone after death of her husband on Mount Eon
Name Access
Peyto, Bill
Subject Access
American Alpine Club
Commendation
Guides
Guiding
Mountaineering
Rescue
Language
English
Title Source
Title based on item
Processing Status
Processed
Images
thumbnail
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Mount Logan Expedition records - correspondence

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55570
Part Of
Alpine Club of Canada fonds
Scope & Content
File pertains to various papers and correspondence between members of the Alpine Club of Canada, the American Alpine Club, and the individuals of the Mt Logan Expedition. Includes Director's papers, financial records, publicity and public relations records, reports, newsclippings; also telegrams to…
Date Range
1923-1926
Reference Code
M200 / AC 00M / 152 - 168
Description Level
5 / File
GMD
Organization record
Private record
Textual record
Part Of
Alpine Club of Canada fonds
Description Level
5 / File
Fonds Number
M200 / S6 / V14
Series
I.A.1.e.i. Administration: expeditions - Mount Logan Expedition
Sous-Fonds
V14
Accession Number
5200
Reference Code
M200 / AC 00M / 152 - 168
GMD
Organization record
Private record
Textual record
Date Range
1923-1926
Physical Description
39 cm of textual records (3 boxes ; 21.6 x 27.9 cm)
Scope & Content
File pertains to various papers and correspondence between members of the Alpine Club of Canada, the American Alpine Club, and the individuals of the Mt Logan Expedition. Includes Director's papers, financial records, publicity and public relations records, reports, newsclippings; also telegrams to Mr. and Mrs. Frederick Lambart.
Name Access
Alpine Club of Canada
Subject Access
Activities
Administration
Advertising
Alpine Club of Canada
American Alpine Club
Cabins
Cabins and shelters
Camps
Club
Competition
Discovery and exploration
Environment
Environment and Nature
Exploration
Guide
Guides
Hiking
Mountain
Mountain guides
Mountaineering
Mountaineers
Mountains
Mount Logan
Mount Logan Expedition
National parks and reserves
Organizations
Photography
Scenery
Sports and recreation
Summit
Geographic Access
Canada
Access Restrictions
Access to negatives is by appointment only
Language
English
Finding Aid
A detailed list is available for a portion of the material.
Related Material
Material is closely related to expedition material in Sous-fonds III. Personal papers and photographs (H. F. Lambart papers and photographs; W. W. Foster photographs). Related oversize display prints can be found in Series I.A.1.j. (AC 00P / 137-147 and AC 00P / 275-280).
Title Source
Title based on material
Processing Status
Processed
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Mountain sickness : prevention, recognition & treatment

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue14798
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1980
Author
Hackett, Peter
Publisher
New York : American Alpine Club
Edition
[2d ed.]
Call Number
R H33 1980
Author
Hackett, Peter
Edition
[2d ed.]
Publisher
New York : American Alpine Club
Published Date
1980
Physical Description
75p. : ill
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Altitude
Medicine
American Alpine Club
Notes
Bibliography
ISBN
0-930410-10-6
Call Number
R H33 1980
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
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12 records – page 1 of 2.

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