topic:"Biography" found 8 records - Research Collections - Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

Abstract: As Fall of Heaven begins, we join professional mountain guide Jean-Antoine Carrel as he tries and fails, again and again, to summit the Matterhorn—one of the most famous and iconic peaks in the Alps. Is it the “Devil’s mountain,” as the locals call it? Should he heed the village priest who warned that its summit was not meant to be climbed? Carrel is undeterred, he just needs capable climbers to join him. Enter Edward Whymper, who in 1861 at the age of 21 decided—unbeknownst to Carrel—that he would be the first to climb the Matterhorn. So the storyline is set, except that where Carrel is captivating, Whymper is utterly unsympathetic as an adventurer. He is mean and disdainful of guides, describing them as little more than porters who eat and drink too much. Despite this attitude, Whymper’s quest leads him inexorably into partnership with Carrel. The story follows their many attempts to find a route to the top of the Matterhorn, but then fate pulls them apart just as Whymper finds the line. His successful summit on July 14, 1865, in which Carrel did not take part, shocked the Victorian world with both awe and revulsion as four members of Whymper’s party died in frightening falls. Famed climber and author Reinhold Messner acknowledges that Whymper was the first man to summit the Matterhorn, the last of the great Alpine peaks to be climbed and representing the beginning of an age of alpinism based on difficulty rather than conquest. But rather than leaving a hero’s legacy, Whymper is revealed as the Captain Ahab of alpinism, a team leader who accepted no responsibility for the deaths of his teammates. Fall of Heaven is an exciting tale and an examination of the different types of men who were caught up in the adventuring spirit of the Victorian age, and the ironic fates that can follow success or failure. (from Mountaineers Books website)

Notes: Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019

ISBN: 9781680510850

Accession Number: AC638

Call Number: G512 F35 M47

Collection: Alpine Club of Canada Library

URL Notes: Summary on Mountaineers Books website

Websites

https://www.mountaineers.org/books/books/fall-of-heaven-whympers-tragic-matterhorn-climb

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Ueli Steck : my life in climbing

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25051

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Published Date: 2018

Author: Steck, Ueli (author); Steinback, Karin (co-author); Bierling, Billi (translator)

Publisher: Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books

Call Number: G512 U45 S74

1 website

Author: Steck, Ueli (author); Steinback, Karin (co-author); Bierling, Billi (translator)

Publisher: Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books

Published Date: 2018

Physical Description: 214 pages : illustrations

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Mountaineering; Biography; Switzerland; Nepal

Abstract: A climber of incredible strength, Ueli Steck set climbing records for speed and endurance that no one had previously thought possible. This deeply personal and revealing memoir, Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing, is the only one of his books to be published in English. In 2016, Ueli established a new speed record on Eiger’s North Face—beating his own record! That same year he climbed all 82 four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps within 62 days (traveling between the peaks by bicycle), and summited Annapurna’s south face in 28 hours. But the dramatic events of the previous two years—the internationally reported conflict with Sherpas at Mount Everest, and the discovery of Alex Lowe’s body on Shishapangma—changed him and made him rethink his approach to the mountains. After withdrawing from the sport for a period, Ueli rediscovered his love of climbing, and in this memoir he explains how his perspective changed. While his drive to achieve in the mountains hadn’t diminished, an evaluation of his experiences helped him find a new way to process the emotional and mental challenges that shaped his athletic outlook. Structured around key climbs, Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing provides the history of each mountain and route, Ueli’s reasons for attempting it, what happened on each climb itself, and what he learned from the experience. It also includes some fascinating insights into his training regimen. Ueli infuses his story with the joy and freedom of climbing and running. He is honest, direct and, at times, exhibits the self-absorption common to many elite athletes. Ultimately, however, his experiences brought him to a place of self-awareness and he was no longer the same climber who first set the speed record on the Eiger’s North Face. Ueli was determined that he would take only acceptable risks. Unfortunately, Ueli’s bar for risk was still very high—he died while on a training climb on the Himalayan peak Nuptse on April 30, 2017. (from Mountaineers Books website)

Contents: Everest : when the world suddenly changes -- Annapurna I : first the glory, then the fall from grace -- Shishapangma : a step too far -- All 4000-meter peaks in the Alps : rediscovering the joy of climbing -- Eiger : the fascination of speed -- Afterword by Steve House -- Translator's note.

ISBN: 9781680511321

Accession Number: AC639

Call Number: G512 U45 S74

Collection: Alpine Club of Canada Library

URL Notes: Summary on Mountaineers Books website

Websites

https://www.mountaineers.org/books/books/ueli-steck-my-life-in-climbing

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Newspaper clippings local news and history

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions54636

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Scope & Content: File consists of one page of song lyrics and 18 newspaper clippings published by the Calgary Herald, the Winnipeg Free Press and The Albertan [mostly 1961 and 1962]. Content pertains to the history of the Bow Valley and Calgary from the late 19th century and onwards; biographies for famous locals i…

Date Range: 1938; [ca. 1960]; 1961; 1962

Reference Code: LUX / II / E / 6

Description Level: 5 / File

GMD: Textual record; Published record; Newspaper clipping

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Description Level: 5 / File

Fonds Number: LUX

Series: LUX / II / E : Travel and home records

Sous-Fonds: LUX / II : Eleanor Luxton

Accession Number: LUX

Reference Code: LUX / II / E / 6

GMD: Textual record; Published record; Newspaper clipping

Responsibility: Items published by the Calgary Herald, Winnipeg Free Press, and The Albertan

Date Range: 1938; [ca. 1960]; 1961; 1962

Physical Description: 0.5 cm of textual records

Scope & Content: File consists of one page of song lyrics and 18 newspaper clippings published by the Calgary Herald, the Winnipeg Free Press and The Albertan [mostly 1961 and 1962]. Content pertains to the history of the Bow Valley and Calgary from the late 19th century and onwards; biographies for famous locals including John, George, and David McDougall, May Ross, Dr. R.G. Brett and others; wedding anniversaries, birthday announcements and obituary articles for friends of the Luxton family; the sale of Norman Luxton's gift shop in Banff; McDougall Day and the Calgary Stampede; the 75th anniversary of the Bank of Montreal; Chief Walking Buffalo; and other miscellaneous news.

Name Access: McDougall, David; McDougall, George; McDougall, John; McDougall, Annie; Chief Walking Buffalo; Brett, Robert G.; Shiels, Bob; Burns, Pat; Ross, May; Drummond, Thomas Howard; Collicutt, Frank; Collicutt, Maggie; Luxton, Eleanor; Luxton, Georgina; Luxton, Norman; Parlby, Irene; McKay, Grant

Subject Access: Anniversary; Biography; Businesses; Calgary Herald; Commerce and industry; Community events; Community life; Events; Family and personal life; Genealogy; History; Hudson's Bay Company; Immigration and homesteading; Calgary Stampede; Music; Obituary; Politics and government; Travel; Winnipeg Free Press

Geographic Access: Canada; Alberta; Calgary; Banff National Park; Banff; Manitoba; Winnipeg; Edmonton

Access Restrictions: Restrictions may apply

Reproduction Restrictions: Restrictions may apply

Language: English

Conservation: Metal paperclip has been removed from two items

Category: Commerce and industry; Family and personal life; Land, settlement and immigration

Title Source: Title based on contents of file

Processing Status: Processed

This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and potentially offensive content. Read more.

Biographical material, Norman Luxton and McDougall family

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions54782

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Scope & Content: File consists of biographical records and timelines of events pertaining to the lives of Norman Luxton, Elizabeth Chantler McDougall and George McDougall. Includes an obituary article for George McDougall from 1876 [two separate newspaper clippings]; an account of a buffalo round-up in 1909 by Norm…

Date Range: 1876; [1930-1940]; 1934; [1955]; 1960

Reference Code: LUX / III / D / 9

Description Level: 5 / File

GMD: Textual record; Published record

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Description Level: 5 / File

Fonds Number: LUX

Series: LUX / III / D : Other material

Sous-Fonds: LUX / III : Luxton Family sous-fonds

Accession Number: LUX

Reference Code: LUX / III / D / 9

GMD: Textual record; Published record

Date Range: 1876; [1930-1940]; 1934; [1955]; 1960

Physical Description: 0.5 cm of textual records

Scope & Content: File consists of biographical records and timelines of events pertaining to the lives of Norman Luxton, Elizabeth Chantler McDougall and George McDougall. Includes an obituary article for George McDougall from 1876 [two separate newspaper clippings]; an account of a buffalo round-up in 1909 by Norman Luxton; Article "Here's Alberta - People and Places" featuring Norman Luxton; published book "Elizabeth McDougall: Pioneer" by Edna Kells; and a program for an event celebrating the 100th anniversary of George McDougall's appointment as Chairman of the Hudson's Bay Missions, which includes a detailed timeline of the lives of George and Elizabeth McDougall, as well as their son John.

Notes: File also contains one duplicate copy of each item, excluding "Elizabeth McDougall: Pioneer"

Name Access: McDougall, George; Luxton, Norman; McDougall, Elizabeth (Chantler)

Subject Access: Buffalo; Churches; Family; History; Biography; Businesses; Religions; Memorial

Geographic Access: Canada; Alberta; Banff; Pigeon Lake; Calgary

Access Restrictions: Obituary article clippings are fragile, handle with care

Language: English

Conservation: Staples removed from two items in file and replaced with archival clips

Category: Family and personal life; Environment; Land, settlement and immigration; Religions

Title Source: Title based on contents of file

Processing Status: Processed

This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and potentially offensive content. Read more.

Here's Alberta publications

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55108

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Scope & Content: File consists of weekly publications of "Here's Alberta - People and Places" commentary distributed by Calgary Power Ltd. between 1952 and 1955. Content pertains to highlights and biographical summaries of notable people in Alberta. November 23, 1952 issue pertains to Norman Luxton.

Date Range: 1952-1955

Reference Code: LUX / II / F1 / 57 to 59

Description Level: 5 / File

GMD: Textual record; Published record

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Description Level: 5 / File

Fonds Number: LUX

Series: LUX / II / F : Collected material

Sous-Fonds: LUX / II : Eleanor Luxton sous-fonds

Sub-Series: LUX / II / F1 : Textual

Accession Number: LUX

Reference Code: LUX / II / F1 / 57 to 59

GMD: Textual record; Published record

Responsibility: Publications in LUX / II / F1 / 57 attributed to Margaret Maw

Date Range: 1952-1955

Physical Description: 1.5 cm of textual records

Scope & Content: File consists of weekly publications of "Here's Alberta - People and Places" commentary distributed by Calgary Power Ltd. between 1952 and 1955. Content pertains to highlights and biographical summaries of notable people in Alberta. November 23, 1952 issue pertains to Norman Luxton.

Name Access: Luxton, Norman

Subject Access: Advertising; Biography; Biographical; History; Municipal views; Businesses; Publication

Geographic Access: Canada; Alberta; Calgary

Reproduction Restrictions: Restrictions may apply

Language: English

Category: Commerce and industry; Communications

Title Source: Title based on contents of file

Content Details: Items have been stored in three file folders, arranged by date: LUX / II / F1 / 57 : 1952-1953 LUX / II / F1 / 58 : 1953-1954 LUX / II / F1 / 59 : 1954-1955

Processing Status: Processed

This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and potentially offensive content. Read more.

Correspondence - William Luxton obituary articles

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55120

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Scope & Content: File consists of newspaper clippings sent to Norman Luxton pertaining to the death of his father, William Fisher Luxton, in 1907. File includes accompanying mailing envelope sent from Hennepin County District Court in Minneapolis, Minnesota to Norman Luxton, and one page of genealogy notes pertaini…

Date Range: 1907; [1927-1940]

Reference Code: LUX / III / A1 / 28

Description Level: 5 / File

GMD: Textual record; Published record

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Description Level: 5 / File

Fonds Number: LUX

Series: LUX / III / A : Norman Luxton family

Sous-Fonds: LUX / III : Luxton family sous-fonds

Sub-Series: LUX / III / A : Correspondence

Accession Number: LUX

Reference Code: LUX / III / A1 / 28

GMD: Textual record; Published record

Date Range: 1907; [1927-1940]

Physical Description: 0.5 cm of textual records

Scope & Content: File consists of newspaper clippings sent to Norman Luxton pertaining to the death of his father, William Fisher Luxton, in 1907. File includes accompanying mailing envelope sent from Hennepin County District Court in Minneapolis, Minnesota to Norman Luxton, and one page of genealogy notes pertaining to Norman Luxton's parents and siblings [produced 1927 or later].

Name Access: Luxton, Norman; Luxton, William (Fisher); Luxton, Sarah

Subject Access: Family and personal life; Genealogy; Obituary; Biography

Geographic Access: Canada; Alberta; Banff; Winnipeg; United States of America; Minnesota

Language: English

Category: Family and personal life; Communications

Title Source: Title based on contents of file

Processing Status: Processed

This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and potentially offensive content. Read more.

Family history notes, editing notes, other

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55126

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Scope & Content: File consists of notes by Eleanor Luxton pertaining to her family history [including notes on Georgina Luxton], Norman Luxton's 1901 voyage aboard the Tilikum, a 1909 hunting trip north of Banff involving Norman Luxton and mountain guide George Harrison, and other related notes. Includes notes writ…

Date Range: 1924; [1960-1970]

Reference Code: LUX / II / C3 / 26

Description Level: 5 / File

GMD: Textual record

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Description Level: 5 / File

Fonds Number: LUX

Series: LUX / II / C : Personal

Sous-Fonds: LUX / II : Eleanor Luxton sous-fonds

Sub-Series: LUX / II / C3 : Diaries, daybooks, notebooks, notes

Accession Number: LUX

Reference Code: LUX / II / C3 / 26

GMD: Textual record

Date Range: 1924; [1960-1970]

Physical Description: 0.3 cm of textual records

Scope & Content: File consists of notes by Eleanor Luxton pertaining to her family history [including notes on Georgina Luxton], Norman Luxton's 1901 voyage aboard the Tilikum, a 1909 hunting trip north of Banff involving Norman Luxton and mountain guide George Harrison, and other related notes. Includes notes written on an envelope which was previously mailed to Georgina Luxton in 1924.

Name Access: Luxton, Eleanor; Luxton, Georgina; Luxton, Norman

Subject Access: Family and personal life; Biography; Research; Publication; Genealogy; Recreation; Sports; Hunting

Geographic Access: Canada; Alberta; Banff; Banff National Park; Morley

Language: English

Category: Exploration, discovery and travel; Family and personal life; Land, settlement and immigration; Sports, recreation and leisure

Title Source: Title based on contents of file

Processing Status: Processed

This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and potentially offensive content. Read more.

Norman Luxton biographical articles

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55613

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Scope & Content: FIle consists of newspaper articles pertaining to Norman Luxton and his life in Banff. Includes one page from The Vancouver Province (March 17th, 1934) with article titled "N-o-a-rman is Our Brother", and two copies of article "Norman Luxton, Oracle of Banff" published in The Western Producer newsp…

Date Range: 1934; 1957

Reference Code: LUX / I / E2 / 16 to 17

Description Level: 5 / File

GMD: Textual record; Published record

2 images

Part Of: Luxton family fonds

Description Level: 5 / File

Fonds Number: LUX

Series: LUX / I / E : Collected material

Sous-Fonds: LUX / I : Norman Luxton sous-fonds

Sub-Series: LUX / I / E2 : Personal papers

Accession Number: LUX

Reference Code: LUX / I / E2 / 16 to 17

GMD: Textual record; Published record

Date Range: 1934; 1957

Physical Description: 0.2 cm of textual records

Scope & Content: FIle consists of newspaper articles pertaining to Norman Luxton and his life in Banff. Includes one page from The Vancouver Province (March 17th, 1934) with article titled "N-o-a-rman is Our Brother", and two copies of article "Norman Luxton, Oracle of Banff" published in The Western Producer newspaper (September 26, 1957).

Name Access: Luxton, Norman

Subject Access: Family and personal life; Biography; Newspaper; Publication

Geographic Access: Canada; British Columbia; Vancouver; Saskatchewan; Saskatoon

Reproduction Restrictions: Copyright restrictions may apply

Language: English

Category: Family and personal life

Title Source: Title based on contents of file

Processing Status: Processed

Images

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