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Quest into the unknown : my life as a climbing nomad
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25028
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2019
- Author
- Howard, Tony
- Publisher
- Sheffield (England) : Vertebrate Publishing
- Call Number
- G512 Qu47 H69
1 website
- Author
- Howard, Tony
- Publisher
- Sheffield (England) : Vertebrate Publishing
- Published Date
- 2019
- Physical Description
- x, 425 pages : color illustrations
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Biography
- Abstract
- Tony Howard rose to fame in 1965 as a member of a group of young climbers from northern England who made the first British ascent of Norway’s Troll Wall; a climb described by Joe Brown as, ‘One of the greatest ever achievements by British rock climbers’. Tony went on to design the modern sit harness, now used universally by every climber in the world. He founded the company Troll Climbing Equipment but never stopped exploring. Quest into the Unknown is his story. Tony has dedicated his life to travelling the world in search of unclimbed rock faces and remote trekking adventures. The scale of his travels is vast: he has visited all of the North African countries, much of the Arab land of the Middle East, the mountainous regions of Scandinavia, Canada and the rocky spine of the Americas, the Himalaya, remote Indian provinces, South East Asia, Madagascar, South Georgia and Antarctica. This book, the last word in adventure travel, takes the reader from Tony’s youth spent developing the crags of the English Peak District, via whaling ships in the Southern Ocean, thousand-mile canoe trips in the Canadian Arctic, living amongst the Bedouin in the rocky mountains of Jordan, to the isolated opium tribes of Thailand. Tony Howard’s Quest into the Unknown is the jaw-dropping account of a life of adventure that is the very definition of true exploration. (from Vertebrate Publishing website)
- Contents
- Precis
- Part One
- Part Two
- Postscript
- Acknowledgements
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019
- ISBN
- 9781911342830
- Accession Number
- AC638
- Call Number
- G512 Qu47 H69
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Vertebrate Publishing website
Websites
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Rising : becoming the first Canadian woman to summit Everest : a memoir
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25043
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2019
- Author
- Wood, Sharon
- Publisher
- Madeira Park, BC : Douglas & MacIntyre
- Edition
- 1st
- Call Number
- G512 R57 W66
1 website
- Author
- Wood, Sharon
- Edition
- 1st
- Publisher
- Madeira Park, BC : Douglas & MacIntyre
- Published Date
- 2019
- Physical Description
- xi, 228 pages : colour illustrations
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Biography
- Women
- Everest, Mount
- Abstract
- In 1986, as part of a Canadian team, Sharon Wood became the first woman from the Americas to summit Mount Everest—and the first woman in the world to do so via the West Ridge from Tibet and without Sherpa support. But it’s how she got there that is truly compelling. In Rising, the personal motivation that drove Wood to reach further and further heights are detailed through the years leading up to the career-defining climb. Often the only woman on expeditions, Wood was an outlier in a predominantly male bastion of high altitude alpine climbing. Against the backdrop of the stunning Himalayan mountains in the days before Everest became as commercialized as it is today, Wood explores the camaraderie and rivalry, the relatable challenges of falling in and out of love, and how she kept her drive to persevere. Subsequently, she recounts how she struggled with unexpected acclaim and expectations following her ascent of Everest, but ultimately found fulfilment and her place in the world. As she tells her story today, her perspective is steeped in six decades of life experience rich with adrenalin, change, reflection and humility. It is a tale that still feels poignantly relevant—a testament to the strength of the human spirit to overcome all obstacles, whether mountain peaks, social expectations or self-imposed barriers. (from Douglas & McIntyre website)
- Contents
- Preface -- Part 1. 1. The promise -- 2. Neighbours -- 3. Friends, nomads and spirits -- 4. Rescue -- 5. Weight -- 6. The power of story -- 7. Redemption -- 8. One hundred trips -- 9. Proving grounds -- 10. Mentors and muses -- 11. Shit, grin and yin -- 12. Ya gotta want it -- 13. Small plans -- 14. The meeting -- 15. Glory or death -- 16. Commitment -- 17. Summit day -- Part 2. 18. Into the dark -- 19. Coming down -- 20. Lost -- 21. On stage, off stage -- 22. Reunion.
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019 finalist for Mountain Literature (non-fiction)
- ISBN
- 9781771622257
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G512 R57 W66
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Douglas & McIntyre website
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Paul Preuss, lord of the abyss : life and death at the birth of free-climbing
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25054
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2019
- Author
- Smart, David
- Publisher
- Toronto : Rocky Mountain Books
- Call Number
- G513 P38 S63
1 website
- Author
- Smart, David
- Publisher
- Toronto : Rocky Mountain Books
- Published Date
- 2019
- Physical Description
- 248 pages : illus.
- Subjects
- Rock climbing
- History
- Biography
- Abstract
- In the months before his death in 1913, from falling more than 300 metres during an attempt to make the first free solo ascent of the North Ridge of the Mandlkogel, Paul Preuss’s public presentations on his climbing adventures filled concert halls in Austria, Italy, and Germany. George Mallory, the famed English mountaineer who died on Mount Everest in 1924, said “no one will ever equal Preuss.“ Reinhold Messner, the first climber to ascend all fourteen 8000 metre peaks, was so impressed by the young Austrian’s achievements that he built a mountaineering museum around Preuss’s piton hammer, wrote two books (in German) about him and instituted a foundation in Preuss’s name. Alex Honnold, the first and only person to free solo El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, has thought about Preuss’ untimely and surprising death and imagined it to have likely been “the worst four seconds” of Preuss’ life. Although he died at only 27 years old, modern climbing may never have developed the ethical, existential core that it has today if not for Preuss’s bold style. Even the most trenchant traditionalists remain unsure about whether to add him to their pantheon or dismiss him as at worst a lunatic or at best an indelicate subject better left ignored. Smart’s biography is the first English language volume to be published and is certain to bring the remarkable story of Paul Preuss to a whole new generation of climbers. (from Rocky Mountain Books website)
- Contents
- Introduction : Paul Preuss
- The boy who loved flowers and mountains
- The student mountaineer : Vienna, 1907-1910
- Schneid : Planspitze, Matterhorn, 1908
- Jesus of the Dorotheergasse, 1909
- Dolomites : the Devil's Lair, Summer 1910
- In Munich, the city of climbers
- Allein : five days that changed climbing, summer 1911
- A crazy notion : the great dispute, 1911-12
- Doctor Preuss presents
- Life as a trifle : the Kaisergebirge, Northern Limestone and the Western Alps, 1912-13
- Valhalla : Mandlkogel North Face, October 1913
- The sleeper of Altaussee
- Acknowledgements
- Selected bibliography
- Notes
- Index
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019 shortlist for Mountain Literature
- ISBN
- 9781771603232
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G513 P38 S63
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Rocky Mountain Books website
Websites
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Summits of my life : daring adventures on the world's greatest peaks
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25020
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Jornet, Kilian
- Publisher
- Boulder, Colorado : VeloPress
- Call Number
- G512 J67 S86
1 website
- Author
- Jornet, Kilian
- Publisher
- Boulder, Colorado : VeloPress
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- 201 pages : illustrations
- Subjects
- Travel
- Mountaineering
- Mont Blanc
- Matterhorn
- Elbruz, Mount
- Denali
- Everest, Mount
- Running
- Skiing
- Biography
- Abstract
- Summits of My Life is the personal project of Kilian Jornet, in which for five years he has traveled to some of the most important peaks of the planet to try to establish FKT (fastest known time) of ascent and descent of some of the most emblematic mountains of the world. The project is closely linked to values and a way of understanding the purist and minimalist mountain. The experiences lived in each challenge have been captured in different films. (from author's website)
- Contents
- The project of my life
- The Challenges
- The Mont Blanc Traverse
- Mont Blanc
- The Matterhorn
- Mount Elbrus
- Denali
- Aconcagua
- Mount Everest
- Forged in dreams and emotions
- Notes
- Kilian Jornet ; translated from Catalan by Nathan Douglas.
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019
- ISBN
- 9781937715908
- Accession Number
- AC638
- Call Number
- G512 J67 S86
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Author's project website including films related to the ascents and decents in book
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No easy way : the challenging life of the climbing taxman
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25041
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Fowler, Mick
- Publisher
- Sheffield : Vertebrate Publishing
- Call Number
- G512 N64 F69
1 website
- Author
- Fowler, Mick
- Publisher
- Sheffield : Vertebrate Publishing
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- ix, 241 pages : illustrations
- Subjects
- Biography
- Mountaineering
- Travel
- Abstract
- In No Easy Way, his third volume of climbing memoirs following Vertical Pleasure and On Thin Ice, Fowler recounts a series of expeditions to stunning mountains in China, India, Nepal and Tibet. Alongside partners including Paul Ramsden, Dave Turnbull, Andy Cave and Victor Saunders, he attempts striking, technically challenging unclimbed lines on Shiva, Gave Ding and Mugu Chuli – with a number of ascents winning prestigious Piolets d’Or, the Oscars of the mountaineering world. Written with his customary dry wit and understatement, he manages challenges away – the art of securing a permit for Tibet – and at home – his duties as Alpine Club president – all the while pursuing his passion for exploratory mountaineering. (from Vertebrate Publishing website)
- Contents
- The competing priorities of life -- Grosvenor: The dangers of cupping -- Kalaqiao: Hands drawn together in prayer -- The Goody Cash: Scottish sea cliffs at their best -- Manamcho: I've never seen a white man before -- Nottingham Castle 1: Challenges close to the office -- Vasuki Parbat: The judgement game -- Fell running: A new mildly eccentric form of exercise? -- Jura success: A passion is born -- Sulamar: The hottest bathtub ever -- The Xiate Trail: Trade routes can be challenging too -- Alpine Club: The establishment beckons -- Mugu Chuli: The bureaucrats go climbing -- Nottingham Castle 2: A brush with the constabulary -- The Prow of Shiva: Are we good enough to do it? -- Kishtwar Kailash: A very special drive and a 12.5-million-view video clip -- Talking about it... -- Hagshu: The bear, the tension, and the climb -- Gave Ding: True adventure -- Sersank: Never too old -- The challenges never end.
- ISBN
- 9781911342755
- Accession Number
- AC693
- Call Number
- G512 N64 F69
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Vertebrate Publishing website
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End of the rope : mountains, marriage, and motherhood
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25047
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Redford, Jan
- Publisher
- Berkeley, California : Counterpoint Press
- Call Number
- G512 E53 R43
1 website
- Author
- Redford, Jan
- Publisher
- Berkeley, California : Counterpoint Press
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- x, 303 pages, 24 unnumbered pages of plates
- Subjects
- Rock climbing
- Mountaineering
- Women
- Biography
- Abstract
- In this funny and gritty debut memoir, praised by Outside, Sierra, Alpinist, and more, Jan Redford grows from a reckless rock climber to a mother who fights to win back her future. As a teenager, she sets her sights on the improbable dream of climbing mountains. By age twenty, she’s a climber with a magnetic attraction to misadventures and the wrong men. Redford finally finds the love of her life, an affable Rockies climber. When he is killed in an avalanche in Alaska, a grieving Redford finds comfort in the arms of another extreme alpinist. Before long, they are married, with a baby on the way. While her husband works as a logger, Redford tackles the traditional role of wife and mother. But soon, she pursues her own dream, one that pits her against her husband. End of the Rope is Redford’s telling of heart-stopping adventures, from being rescued off El Capitan to leading a group of bumbling cadets across a glacier. It is her laughter-filled memoir of friendships with women in that masculine world. Most moving, this is the story of her struggle to make her own way in the mountains and in life. To lead, not follow. (from Counterpoint Press website)
- Contents
- First climb -- On the rocks -- Lion's layback -- The rescue -- Speed ruts -- Learning to roll -- Bugaboo -- World's toughest milkman -- Fragile ice -- We're gathered here today -- Aberdeen -- Show no fear -- Climbing girlfriend -- The final last straw -- The memo -- In the arms of a mountain -- The underwear drawer -- Teetering on the edge -- Pink wedding dress -- The waiting -- Miracles -- Into the shadows -- Back on the sharp end -- Yodel village -- You lead, I'll follow -- Carsick -- Die young, stay pretty -- Grant's lunch -- Fractured -- Playing dead -- Mama spiders -- Remember the lilac -- Power surge -- Leaving Chaba -- Only four years -- One little "non" -- Second chances.
- ISBN
- 9780345812315
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G512 E53 R43
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Counterpoint Press website
Websites
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Ueli Steck : my life in climbing
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25051
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Steck, Ueli (author)
- Steinback, Karin (co-author)
- Bierling, Billi (translator)
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- G512 U45 S74
1 website
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- 214 pages : illustrations
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Biography
- Switzerland
- Nepal
- Abstract
- A climber of incredible strength, Ueli Steck set climbing records for speed and endurance that no one had previously thought possible. This deeply personal and revealing memoir, Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing, is the only one of his books to be published in English. In 2016, Ueli established a new speed record on Eiger’s North Face—beating his own record! That same year he climbed all 82 four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps within 62 days (traveling between the peaks by bicycle), and summited Annapurna’s south face in 28 hours. But the dramatic events of the previous two years—the internationally reported conflict with Sherpas at Mount Everest, and the discovery of Alex Lowe’s body on Shishapangma—changed him and made him rethink his approach to the mountains. After withdrawing from the sport for a period, Ueli rediscovered his love of climbing, and in this memoir he explains how his perspective changed. While his drive to achieve in the mountains hadn’t diminished, an evaluation of his experiences helped him find a new way to process the emotional and mental challenges that shaped his athletic outlook. Structured around key climbs, Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing provides the history of each mountain and route, Ueli’s reasons for attempting it, what happened on each climb itself, and what he learned from the experience. It also includes some fascinating insights into his training regimen. Ueli infuses his story with the joy and freedom of climbing and running. He is honest, direct and, at times, exhibits the self-absorption common to many elite athletes. Ultimately, however, his experiences brought him to a place of self-awareness and he was no longer the same climber who first set the speed record on the Eiger’s North Face. Ueli was determined that he would take only acceptable risks. Unfortunately, Ueli’s bar for risk was still very high—he died while on a training climb on the Himalayan peak Nuptse on April 30, 2017. (from Mountaineers Books website)
- Contents
- Everest : when the world suddenly changes -- Annapurna I : first the glory, then the fall from grace -- Shishapangma : a step too far -- All 4000-meter peaks in the Alps : rediscovering the joy of climbing -- Eiger : the fascination of speed -- Afterword by Steve House -- Translator's note.
- ISBN
- 9781680511321
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G512 U45 S74
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Mountaineers Books website
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Honouring high places : the mountain life of Junko Tabei
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19852
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Tabei, Junko
- Rolfe, Helen Y.
- Publisher
- Victoria, BC : Rocky Mountain Books Ltd
- Edition
- 1st ed.
- Call Number
- G512 T33 H66
1 website
- Author
- Tabei, Junko
- Rolfe, Helen Y.
- Responsibility
- Junko Tabei and Helen Y. Rolfe, translated by Yumiko Hiraki and Rieko Holtved
- Edition
- 1st ed.
- Publisher
- Victoria, BC : Rocky Mountain Books Ltd
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 376 pages
- Abstract
- "A collection of personal stories and reflections based on the memoirs of Junko Tabei, the first woman to climb Mount Everest and the Seven Summits. Honouring High Places is a compelling collection of highlights from Junko Tabei's stirring life that she considered important, inspiring and interesting to mountaineering culture. Until now, her works have been available only in Japanese, and RMB is honoured to be sharing these profound and moving stories with the English-speaking world for the first time. The collection opens on Mount Everest, where the first all-women's expedition is met with disaster but pushes on against all odds. The story then shifts to the early years of Tabei's life and reflects on her countryside childhood as a frail girl with no talent for sport, and cultural expectations that ignored her passion for mountains. With reminiscences of the early days of female climbers on Everest, the deaths of fellow mountaineers, Tabei's pursuit of Mount Tomur, a cancer diagnosis, and efforts to restore a love for nature in the surviving youth of the Fukushima earthquake and tsunami that hit Japan in 2011, this beautifully curated collection of essays captures the essence of a notable time and the strength of character of one of the 20th and 21st centuries' female mountaineering pioneers."-- Provided by publisher.
- Contents
- Author's note
- Introduction by Setsuko Kitamura
- Chapter 1 - avalanche!
- Chapter 2 - the meaning of mountains
- Chapter 3 - Annapurna III
- Chapter 4 - Mount Everest
- Chapter 5 - to the top ofthe world
- Chapter 6 - the route
- Chapter 7 - finalists
- Chapter 8 - South Col
- Chapter 9 - the summit
- Chapter 10 - endgame
- Chapter 11 - women on Everest
- Chapter 12 - Mount Tombur, Pobeda Peak
- Chapter 13 - Aconcagua
- Chapter 14 - Carstensz Pyramid
- Chapter 15 - mountains of later life
- About Junko by Masanobu Tabei
- A son's tribute by Shinya Tabei
- Beyond mountains by Setsuko Kitamura
- Life chronology
- Glossary
- Acknowledgements
- References
- Index
- Notes
- Winner of the Mountaineering History category at the 2018 Banff Mountain Book Competition Awards
- ISBN
- 9780771602167
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- G512 T33 H66
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- 2018 Banff Mountain Book Competition Awards website
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The push: a climbers's journey of endurance, risk, and going beyond limits
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19900
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Caldwell, Tommy
- Publisher
- New York : Viking
- Call Number
- G513 C35 P87
1 website
- Author
- Caldwell, Tommy
- Responsibility
- Tommy Caldwell
- Publisher
- New York : Viking
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 341 p. ; illus.
- Abstract
- Pertains the the the nineteen day free climb on Yosemite's Dawn Wall, successfully executed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014.
- ISBN
- 9780399562709
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- G513 C35 P87
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- American Alpine Club article
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Art of freedom : the life and climbs of Voytek Kurtyka
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19901
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
- Call Number
- G512 M16 A78
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Responsibility
- Bernadette McDonald
- Publisher
- Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 326 pages : photographs ; 24 cm
- Abstract
- "A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.
- Contents
- Introduction
- Rock Animal
- Alpinist in Training
- Hindu Kush - Unleashed
- Troll Wall
- Bandaka - The Mordor Beauty
- Hungry for Hunger
- Dancing in the Moment
- Enfant Terrible
- Line against the Sky
- The Shining Wall
- Fork in the Road
- Trango Tower
- Night Naked
- Dance of the Underclings
- Chinese Maharaja
- Metaphysical Think Tank
- The Crux
- Chronology of Selected Climbs
- Acknowledgements
- Notes
- Sources
- Index
- ISBN
- 9781771602129
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- G512 M16 A78
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
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