topic:"Biography" found 17 records - Research Collections - Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

Art of freedom : the life and climbs of Voytek Kurtyka

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19901

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Published Date: 2017

Author: McDonald, Bernadette

Publisher: Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books

Call Number: G512 M16 A78

Author: McDonald, Bernadette

Responsibility: Bernadette McDonald

Publisher: Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books

Published Date: 2017

Physical Description: 326 pages : photographs ; 24 cm

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Mountaineering; Mountaineers; Mountaineers, Polish; Biography

Abstract: "A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.

Contents: Introduction; Rock Animal; Alpinist in Training; Hindu Kush - Unleashed; Troll Wall; Bandaka - The Mordor Beauty; Hungry for Hunger; Dancing in the Moment; Enfant Terrible; Line against the Sky; The Shining Wall; Fork in the Road; Trango Tower; Night Naked; Dance of the Underclings; Chinese Maharaja; Metaphysical Think Tank; The Crux; Chronology of Selected Climbs; Acknowledgements; Notes; Sources; Index

ISBN: 9781771602129

Accession Number: AC634

Call Number: G512 M16 A78

Collection: Alpine Club of Canada Library

This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and potentially offensive content. Read more.

Art of Freedom : the life and climbs of Voytek Kurtyka

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue2157

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Published Date: 2017

Author: McDonald, Bernadette

Publisher: Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books

Call Number: 01 Mc14a

Author: McDonald, Bernadette

Responsibility: Bernadette McDonald

Publisher: Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books

Published Date: 2017

Physical Description: 326 pages : photographs ; 24 cm

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Mountaineering; Mountaineers; Mountaineers, Polish; Biography

Abstract: "A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.

Contents: Introduction; Rock Animal; Alpinist in Training; Hindu Kush - Unleashed; Troll Wall; Bandaka - The Mordor Beauty; Hungry for Hunger; Dancing in the Moment; Enfant Terrible; Line against the Sky; The Shining Wall; Fork in the Road; Trango Tower; Night Naked; Dance of the Underclings; Chinese Maharaja; Metaphysical Think Tank; The Crux; Chronology of Selected Climbs; Acknowledgements; Notes; Sources; Index

ISBN: 9781771602129

Accession Number: 2019.11

Call Number: 01 Mc14a

Collection: Archives Library

This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and potentially offensive content. Read more.

Deep Powder and Steep Rock - textual

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55082

Part Of: Chic Scott fonds

Scope & Content: Series consists of textual records, including notes, manuscripts and other related materials, pertaining to the creation of the book "Deep Powder and Steep Rock".

Date Range: 2009

Reference Code: M57 / V

Description Level: 3 / Series

GMD: Textual record; Map

Part Of: Chic Scott fonds

Description Level: 3 / Series

Fonds Number: M57 / V40 / S47

Series: M57 / V : Deep Powder and Steep Rock

Sous-Fonds: M57

Accession Number: 2014.8295; 2015.8559

Reference Code: M57 / V

GMD: Textual record; Map

Date Range: 2009

Physical Description: 30 cm of textual records

History / Biographical: Hans Gmoser played a major role in creating Canada’s vibrant mountain community. Although known internationally as the father of heli-skiing, he was much more than that: a talented rock climber, tireless expedition leader, a mountain guide, film maker and organizer. Deep Powder and Steep Rock presents an intimate portrait of this charismatic man. Much of the story is told in Gmoser’s own words, gleaned from his diaries, expedition journals, film commentaries and personal correspondence. It is a unique tale of adventure, hard work, perseverance and ultimate success.

Scope & Content: Series consists of textual records, including notes, manuscripts and other related materials, pertaining to the creation of the book "Deep Powder and Steep Rock".

Notes: Series consists of five sub-series: M57 / V / A: Research files M57 / V / B: Maps M57 / V / C: Interviews M57 / V / D: Photograph notes M57 / V / E: Draft Manuscript