topic:"Biography" found 6 records - Research Collections - Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

Abstract: As Fall of Heaven begins, we join professional mountain guide Jean-Antoine Carrel as he tries and fails, again and again, to summit the Matterhorn—one of the most famous and iconic peaks in the Alps. Is it the “Devil’s mountain,” as the locals call it? Should he heed the village priest who warned that its summit was not meant to be climbed? Carrel is undeterred, he just needs capable climbers to join him. Enter Edward Whymper, who in 1861 at the age of 21 decided—unbeknownst to Carrel—that he would be the first to climb the Matterhorn. So the storyline is set, except that where Carrel is captivating, Whymper is utterly unsympathetic as an adventurer. He is mean and disdainful of guides, describing them as little more than porters who eat and drink too much. Despite this attitude, Whymper’s quest leads him inexorably into partnership with Carrel. The story follows their many attempts to find a route to the top of the Matterhorn, but then fate pulls them apart just as Whymper finds the line. His successful summit on July 14, 1865, in which Carrel did not take part, shocked the Victorian world with both awe and revulsion as four members of Whymper’s party died in frightening falls. Famed climber and author Reinhold Messner acknowledges that Whymper was the first man to summit the Matterhorn, the last of the great Alpine peaks to be climbed and representing the beginning of an age of alpinism based on difficulty rather than conquest. But rather than leaving a hero’s legacy, Whymper is revealed as the Captain Ahab of alpinism, a team leader who accepted no responsibility for the deaths of his teammates. Fall of Heaven is an exciting tale and an examination of the different types of men who were caught up in the adventuring spirit of the Victorian age, and the ironic fates that can follow success or failure. (from Mountaineers Books website)

Notes: Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019

ISBN: 9781680510850

Accession Number: AC638

Call Number: G512 F35 M47

Collection: Alpine Club of Canada Library

URL Notes: Summary on Mountaineers Books website

Websites

https://www.mountaineers.org/books/books/fall-of-heaven-whympers-tragic-matterhorn-climb

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Ueli Steck : my life in climbing

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25051

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Published Date: 2018

Author: Steck, Ueli (author); Steinback, Karin (co-author); Bierling, Billi (translator)

Publisher: Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books

Call Number: G512 U45 S74

1 website

Author: Steck, Ueli (author); Steinback, Karin (co-author); Bierling, Billi (translator)

Publisher: Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books

Published Date: 2018

Physical Description: 214 pages : illustrations

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Mountaineering; Biography; Switzerland; Nepal

Abstract: A climber of incredible strength, Ueli Steck set climbing records for speed and endurance that no one had previously thought possible. This deeply personal and revealing memoir, Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing, is the only one of his books to be published in English. In 2016, Ueli established a new speed record on Eiger’s North Face—beating his own record! That same year he climbed all 82 four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps within 62 days (traveling between the peaks by bicycle), and summited Annapurna’s south face in 28 hours. But the dramatic events of the previous two years—the internationally reported conflict with Sherpas at Mount Everest, and the discovery of Alex Lowe’s body on Shishapangma—changed him and made him rethink his approach to the mountains. After withdrawing from the sport for a period, Ueli rediscovered his love of climbing, and in this memoir he explains how his perspective changed. While his drive to achieve in the mountains hadn’t diminished, an evaluation of his experiences helped him find a new way to process the emotional and mental challenges that shaped his athletic outlook. Structured around key climbs, Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing provides the history of each mountain and route, Ueli’s reasons for attempting it, what happened on each climb itself, and what he learned from the experience. It also includes some fascinating insights into his training regimen. Ueli infuses his story with the joy and freedom of climbing and running. He is honest, direct and, at times, exhibits the self-absorption common to many elite athletes. Ultimately, however, his experiences brought him to a place of self-awareness and he was no longer the same climber who first set the speed record on the Eiger’s North Face. Ueli was determined that he would take only acceptable risks. Unfortunately, Ueli’s bar for risk was still very high—he died while on a training climb on the Himalayan peak Nuptse on April 30, 2017. (from Mountaineers Books website)

Contents: Everest : when the world suddenly changes -- Annapurna I : first the glory, then the fall from grace -- Shishapangma : a step too far -- All 4000-meter peaks in the Alps : rediscovering the joy of climbing -- Eiger : the fascination of speed -- Afterword by Steve House -- Translator's note.

ISBN: 9781680511321

Accession Number: AC639

Call Number: G512 U45 S74

Collection: Alpine Club of Canada Library

URL Notes: Summary on Mountaineers Books website

Websites

https://www.mountaineers.org/books/books/ueli-steck-my-life-in-climbing

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Personal Daytimers

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions23147

Part Of: Arthur Oliver Wheeler fonds

Scope & Content: File pertains to the 1942 & 1943 personal diaires/daytimers of A. O. Wheeler. M546 / 49 : Includes day to day activities, daily temperature in morning and evening, records of daily weather, personal hygiene, leisure, correspondence, financial documentation. Documentation of time spent with “B” and …

Date Range: 1942

Reference Code: M546 / 49 to 50

Description Level: 5 / File

GMD: Diary

2 images 2 Electronic Resources

Part Of: Arthur Oliver Wheeler fonds

Description Level: 5 / File

Fonds Number: M546 / V771

Sous-Fonds: M546

Accession Number: 2014.8312

Reference Code: M546 / 49 to 50

GMD: Diary

Date Range: 1942

Physical Description: 4.3 cm of textual records (2 volumes ; 9.4 x 15.6 cm)

History / Biographical: See fonds level description

Scope & Content: File pertains to the 1942 & 1943 personal diaires/daytimers of A. O. Wheeler. M546 / 49 : Includes day to day activities, daily temperature in morning and evening, records of daily weather, personal hygiene, leisure, correspondence, financial documentation. Documentation of time spent with “B” and Eli. Documents correspondence related to Harmon’s death, obituaries, condolences, etc. M546 / 50 : Includes documentation of personal hygiene, daily correspondence, weather, temperature, financial transactions. Travel between Sidney/Victoria and Banff. Throughout mid January writing correspondence regarding “Sir Oliver.” August 17 correspondence regarding “‘call up’ for all over 18 ½ years.”

Notes: Blank pages not scanned

Name Access: Wheeler, A. O. (Arthur Oliver); Wheeler, Arthur Oliver; Harmon, Byron

Subject Access: Alpine Club of Canada; Biography; Camps; Climbing; Correspondence; Family and personal life; Finances; Leisure; Memorial; Mountains; Obituary; Professional and Personal Life; Sports and recreation; Record keeping; Travel and Exploration; Weather; Work

Geographic Access: Rocky Mountains; Banff; Banff National Park; Victoria; Alberta; British Columbia; Canada

Language: English

Creator: Wheeler, A. O.

Title Source: Title based on contents of file

Processing Status: Processed

Electronic Resources

m546_49.pdf

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m546_50.pdf

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Images

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