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The big walls : history, routes, experiences
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue1748
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1978
- Author
- Messner, Reinhold
- Publisher
- London : Kaye & Ward; New York : Oxford University Press
- Call Number
- G510 M47
- G510 M47 Copy 2
- Author
- Messner, Reinhold
- Publisher
- London : Kaye & Ward; New York : Oxford University Press
- Published Date
- 1978
- Physical Description
- 143 p. : ill.
- Subjects
- Everest, Mount
- Messner, Reinhold
- Biography
- ISBN
- 0 7182 1191
- Accession Number
- AC619
- Call Number
- G510 M47
- G510 M47 Copy 2
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
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The Book of Mortimer: Celebrating a Life of Volunteerism - textual
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55073
- Part Of
- Chic Scott fonds
- Scope & Content
- Series consists of textual records pertaining to the creation and publication of the Book of Mortimer, including manuscript drafts, correspondence and notes.
- Date Range
- 1978 - 1998
- Reference Code
- M57 / IX
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- GMD
- Textual record
- Part Of
- Chic Scott fonds
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- Fonds Number
- M57 / V40 / S47
- Series
- M57 / IX : The Book of Mortimer: Celebrating a Life of Volunteerism
- Sous-Fonds
- M57
- Sub-Series
- M57 / IX / A: Manuscript Drafts M57 / IX / B: Correspondence M57 / IX / C: Interview Notes M57 / IX / D: Research and Speech Notes
- Accession Number
- .
- Reference Code
- M57 / IX
- GMD
- Textual record
- Date Range
- 1978 - 1998
- Physical Description
- 1 cm of textual records
- History / Biographical
- No one has volunteered more time and energy to Canada’s mountain community and to the Alpine Club of Canada than Mike and Heather Mortimer. Beginning their careers as newsletter editors of the Calgary Section of the ACC, Mike and Heather eventually became president and first lady of the UIAA (International Union of Alpine Associations). Along the way they have organized Mountain Safety Conferences, built the Bow Hut on the Wapta Icefield and organized the Alpine Club of Canada’s Centennial Celebration. This book tells their story.
- Scope & Content
- Series consists of textual records pertaining to the creation and publication of the Book of Mortimer, including manuscript drafts, correspondence and notes.
- Notes
- Series consists of four sub-series: M57 / IX / A: Manuscript Drafts M57 / IX / B: Correspondence M57 / IX / C: Interview Notes M57 / IX / D: Research and Speech Notes
- Name Access
- Scott, Chic
- Mortimer, Heather
- Mortimer, Mike
- Subject Access
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Biography
- Family and personal life
- Personal and Professional Life
- Publication
- Research
- Public Speaking
- Municipal views
- Correspondence
- Communications
- Geographic Access
- Canada
- Alberta
- Calgary
- Canadian Rocky Mountains
- Language
- English
- Category
- Communications
- Family and personal life
- Biographical Source Notes
- https://www.chicscott.com/books.htm
- Title Source
- Title based on contents of file
- Processing Status
- Processed
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Everest, the first ascent : how a champion of science helped to conquer the mountain
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue14628
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2013
- Author
- Tuckey, Harriet
- Publisher
- Guilford, Connectcut : Lyons Press, an imprint of Globe Pequot Press
- Call Number
- 01.1 T81e
- Author
- Tuckey, Harriet
- Responsibility
- Harriet Tuckey
- Publisher
- Guilford, Connectcut : Lyons Press, an imprint of Globe Pequot Press
- Published Date
- 2013
- Physical Description
- xxi, 402 pages : illustrations ; 24 cm
- Notes
- Includes bibliographical references and index.
- Already awarded a prize by the Biographer's Club,
- Harriet Tuckey's book is both the history of what went into the first successful ascent of Mt. Everest in 1953 and a biography of her father, Dr Griffith Pugh, whose role was absolutely pivotal, yet mostly untold. As the expedition's physiological consultant, Pugh designed almost every aspect of the survival strategy for the expedition, the acclimatization program, the oxygen- and fluid-intake regime, the diet, the clothing and the high altitude boots. Without him and his work, the ascent of Everest would have been impossible.
- Winner of the 2013 Jon Whyte Award
- ISBN
- 9780762791927
- Accession Number
- 2015.8537
- Call Number
- 01.1 T81e
- Collection
- Archives Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
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Focused on adventure : portrait of Pat Morrow
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue14086
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2010
- Author
- Martel, Lynn
- Publisher
- Canmore AB : The Alpine Club of Canada
- Call Number
- 01 M36f Pam
- Author
- Martel, Lynn
- Responsibility
- Lynn Martel
- Publisher
- Canmore AB : The Alpine Club of Canada
- Published Date
- 2010
- Physical Description
- 32 p
- Series
- Summit Series #12
- ISBN
- 0920330665
- Accession Number
- 8218
- Call Number
- 01 M36f Pam
- Collection
- Archives Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
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Focused on adventure : portrait of Pat Morrow
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue14811
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2010
- Author
- Martel, Lynn
- Publisher
- Canmore : The Alpine Club of Canada
- Call Number
- G512 M67 Pam
- G512 M67 Copy 2
- G512 M67 Copy 3
- Author
- Martel, Lynn
- Responsibility
- Lynn Martel
- Publisher
- Canmore : The Alpine Club of Canada
- Published Date
- 2010
- Physical Description
- 32 pages, illustrations
- Series
- Summit Series #12
- ISBN
- 0920330665
- Call Number
- G512 M67 Pam
- G512 M67 Copy 2
- G512 M67 Copy 3
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
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Karakoram : climbing through the Kashmir conflict
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19903
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Swenson, Steve
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- DS485 S94 K37
1 website
- Author
- Swenson, Steve
- Responsibility
- Steven Swenson
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 315 p. : illustrations (some colour)
- Subjects
- Kashmir
- Mountaineering
- Karakoram Range
- Karakorum Mountains
- Pakistan
- Everest, Mount
- Biography
- Abstract
- Pertains to the climbs attempted by Steven Swenson from 1980 to 2015 in the Karakoram range as they related to the Kashmir conflict
- Contents
- Foreward by Greg Child
- Author's note
- Preface
- Map legend
- Map of the Karakoram region
- Chapter 1 - to Pakistan
- Chapter 2 - elusive summits
- Chapter 3 - K2 at last
- Chapter 4 - life and death
- Chapter 5 - Everest
- Chapter 6 - one more try
- Chapter 7 - after 9/11
- Chapter 8 - the killer mountain
- Chapter 9 - the world's hardest mountains
- Chapter 10 - the risk of regret
- Chapter 11 - attack
- Chapter 12 - passing the torch
- Sources
- Acknoledgements
- Index
- ISBN
- 9780594859731
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- DS485 S94 K37
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- American Alpine Club article
Websites
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Malcolm Geddes fonds
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions601
- Part Of
- Malcolm Geddes fonds
- Scope & Content
- Fonds consists of textual and visual records pertaining to Malcolm Geddes, as well as his immediate family: wife Jennie (Waters) Geddes, and children Alvin and Enid Geddes; and extended family members. Fonds includes records related to Malcolm's work as a poet and author (including original drafts …
- Date Range
- [1896-2013]
- Reference Code
- M39 / V756
- Description Level
- 1 / Fonds
- GMD
- Photograph
- Negative
- Transparency
- Textual record
- Private record
- Published record
- Part Of
- Malcolm Geddes fonds
- Description Level
- 1 / Fonds
- Fonds Number
- M 39
- V 756
- Sous-Fonds
- M 39
- V 756
- Accession Number
- 5545, 6504, 7846, 2014.8306, 2015.8558
- Reference Code
- M39 / V756
- Responsibility
- Some views are by Malcolm Geddes; many were obtained through other sources
- Date Range
- [1896-2013]
- Physical Description
- 444 photographs: 385 b&w and col. transparencies, 59 b&w prints -- 1 album (28 b&w prints) -- 11 cm of textual records
- History / Biographical
- Malcolm Daniel Geddes, 1866-1927, was a journalist, publisher and mountaineer at Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Geddes was one of the founders of the "Farmers and Ranch Review" in 1904, and served as vice-president and editor until his death. He joined the Alpine Club of Canada in 1917, was active in ACC summer camps and served as Honorary Secretary from 1924 to 1926. Geddes was killed in a mountaineering accident on Mount Lefroy in 1927.
- Scope & Content
- Fonds consists of textual and visual records pertaining to Malcolm Geddes, as well as his immediate family: wife Jennie (Waters) Geddes, and children Alvin and Enid Geddes; and extended family members. Fonds includes records related to Malcolm's work as a poet and author (including original drafts and publications), Malcolm's career in real estate, family letters, financial records, records of mountain ascents and hikes with the Alpine Club of Canada, family trees and genealogical research, and other related materials.
- Notes
- Fonds consists of three series:
- Series I : Professional records I / A : Published materials I / B : Manuscripts and notes I / C : Professional correspondence
- Series II : Financial records
- Series III : Personal and family records III / A : Travel and mountain expeditions III / B : Genealogy and research III / C : Other personal and family records
- Name Access
- Geddes, Malcolm
- Subject Access
- Environment
- Sports, recreation and leisure
- Hiking
- Family and personal life
- Personal and Professional Life
- Poetry
- Property
- Finances
- Commerce and industry
- Communications
- Correspondence
- Genealogy
- History
- Research
- Publication
- Travel
- Mountains
- Mountaineering
- Biography
- Obituary
- Geographic Access
- Canada
- Alberta
- Calgary
- British Columbia
- Ontario
- Canadian Rocky Mountains
- Access Restrictions
- No restrictions on access
- Public domain (other restrictions may apply)
- Reproduction Restrictions
- Restrictions may apply
- Language
- Language is English
- Finding Aid
- Finding aids and reference tools: arrangement outline
- series and file description
- electronic finding aid
- Creator
- Geddes, Malcolm
- Title Source
- Title based on accession records
- Content Details
- Arrangement of fonds was redone by Processing Archivist Kate Skelton between December 2020 and March 2021 to accommodate unprocessed materials from accessions 7846, 2014.8306 and 2015.8558
- Processing Status
- Processed
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
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My father, Frank : unresting spirit of Everest
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue14899
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2013
- Author
- Smythe, Tony
- Publisher
- Sheffield, U.K. : Baton Wicks
- Edition
- 1st ed
- Call Number
- G512 S59
- Author
- Smythe, Tony
- Responsibility
- Tony Smythe ; foreword by Doug Scott
- Edition
- 1st ed
- Publisher
- Sheffield, U.K. : Baton Wicks
- Published Date
- 2013
- Physical Description
- 324 pages, 32 unnumbered pages of plates
- Subjects
- Biography
- Everest, Mount
- Great Britain
- ISBN
- 9781898573876
- Accession Number
- AC610
- Call Number
- G512 S59
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
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Norton of Everest : the biography of E.F. Norton, soldier and mountaineer
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19919
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Norton, Hugh
- Publisher
- Sheffield, England : Vertebrate Publishing
- Call Number
- G512 N67 N67
1 website
- Author
- Norton, Hugh
- Publisher
- Sheffield, England : Vertebrate Publishing
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 208 p.
- Subjects
- Biography
- Mountaineering
- World War I
- Everest, Mount
- Abstract
- E.F. Norton lived a life of distinction in the declining years of the British Empire. Born into an accomplished, well-travelled family, he followed his heart and enlisted for a professional career as a soldier. A distinguished military career followed, punctuated with indulgences in his passion for exploration and mountaineering. The British Empire was starting to crumble, and Norton would be called upon more than once to rise to a variety of challenges.Norton’s gift for leadership was first demonstrated via his rapid progression through the ranks in the First World War, which paved the way for future leadership appointments, having earned the confidence and respect of those under his command. Events in the Second World War followed suit, when Norton was abruptly assigned the post of acting governor of Hong Kong, entrusted to save the civilian population from imminent Japanese invasion. The 1924 Everest expedition also exemplifies the pattern of having had leadership thrust upon him – in this case when General Charles Bruce was struck down by malaria on the approach march. Leading from the front, Norton set an altitude record for climbing on Everest without supplementary oxygen – a record only bettered in 1978 when Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made the first ascent of Everest without oxygen. Yet tragedy would follow Norton’s achievement, when George Mallory and Andrew Irvine disappeared high on the mountain. In Norton of Everest, Hugh Norton has written sensitively and knowledgably about his father’s remarkable life as mountaineer, soldier, naturalist, artist and family man. As on Everest, the real story is not only the death of the gallant, but also the heroics of the quiet survivors like E.F. Norton. (from publisher's website)
- Contents
- Foreward by Wade Davis
- Preface
- Chapter 1 - The early years
- Chapter 2 - Soldiering
- Chapter 3 - A pen portrait
- Chapter 4 - Mountaineering
- Chapter 5 - The middle years
- Chapter 6 - Acting governor of Hong Kong
- Chapter 7 - Retirement
- Appendices
- Acknowledgements
- ISBN
- 9781910240922
- Accession Number
- AC635
- Call Number
- G512 N67 N67
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Publisher's website
Websites
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One man's Everest
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue15357
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2015
- Author
- Cool, Kenton
- Publisher
- London : Preface
- Call Number
- G512 C66 O54
- Author
- Cool, Kenton
- Publisher
- London : Preface
- Published Date
- 2015
- Physical Description
- 264 pages, illustrations (16 pages of unnumbered, coloured plates)
- Subjects
- Accidents
- Biography
- Everest, Mount
- Mountaineering
- Nepal
- ISBN
- 9781848094499
- Accession Number
- AC633
- Call Number
- G512 C66 O54
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
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