topic:"Biography" found 9 records - Research Collections - Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

Abstract: "A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.

Contents: Introduction; Rock Animal; Alpinist in Training; Hindu Kush - Unleashed; Troll Wall; Bandaka - The Mordor Beauty; Hungry for Hunger; Dancing in the Moment; Enfant Terrible; Line against the Sky; The Shining Wall; Fork in the Road; Trango Tower; Night Naked; Dance of the Underclings; Chinese Maharaja; Metaphysical Think Tank; The Crux; Chronology of Selected Climbs; Acknowledgements; Notes; Sources; Index

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Abstract: "A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.

Contents: Introduction; Rock Animal; Alpinist in Training; Hindu Kush - Unleashed; Troll Wall; Bandaka - The Mordor Beauty; Hungry for Hunger; Dancing in the Moment; Enfant Terrible; Line against the Sky; The Shining Wall; Fork in the Road; Trango Tower; Night Naked; Dance of the Underclings; Chinese Maharaja; Metaphysical Think Tank; The Crux; Chronology of Selected Climbs; Acknowledgements; Notes; Sources; Index