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Fall of heaven : Whymper's tragic Matterhorn climb
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25031
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Messner, Reinhold (author)
- Bierling, Billi (translator)
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- G512 F35 M47
1 website
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 206 pages
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Whymper, Edward
- Biography
- Matterhorn
- Abstract
- As Fall of Heaven begins, we join professional mountain guide Jean-Antoine Carrel as he tries and fails, again and again, to summit the Matterhorn—one of the most famous and iconic peaks in the Alps. Is it the “Devil’s mountain,” as the locals call it? Should he heed the village priest who warned that its summit was not meant to be climbed? Carrel is undeterred, he just needs capable climbers to join him. Enter Edward Whymper, who in 1861 at the age of 21 decided—unbeknownst to Carrel—that he would be the first to climb the Matterhorn. So the storyline is set, except that where Carrel is captivating, Whymper is utterly unsympathetic as an adventurer. He is mean and disdainful of guides, describing them as little more than porters who eat and drink too much. Despite this attitude, Whymper’s quest leads him inexorably into partnership with Carrel. The story follows their many attempts to find a route to the top of the Matterhorn, but then fate pulls them apart just as Whymper finds the line. His successful summit on July 14, 1865, in which Carrel did not take part, shocked the Victorian world with both awe and revulsion as four members of Whymper’s party died in frightening falls. Famed climber and author Reinhold Messner acknowledges that Whymper was the first man to summit the Matterhorn, the last of the great Alpine peaks to be climbed and representing the beginning of an age of alpinism based on difficulty rather than conquest. But rather than leaving a hero’s legacy, Whymper is revealed as the Captain Ahab of alpinism, a team leader who accepted no responsibility for the deaths of his teammates. Fall of Heaven is an exciting tale and an examination of the different types of men who were caught up in the adventuring spirit of the Victorian age, and the ironic fates that can follow success or failure. (from Mountaineers Books website)
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019
- ISBN
- 9781680510850
- Accession Number
- AC638
- Call Number
- G512 F35 M47
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Mountaineers Books website
Websites
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
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Ueli Steck : my life in climbing
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25051
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Steck, Ueli (author)
- Steinback, Karin (co-author)
- Bierling, Billi (translator)
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- G512 U45 S74
1 website
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- 214 pages : illustrations
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Biography
- Switzerland
- Nepal
- Abstract
- A climber of incredible strength, Ueli Steck set climbing records for speed and endurance that no one had previously thought possible. This deeply personal and revealing memoir, Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing, is the only one of his books to be published in English. In 2016, Ueli established a new speed record on Eiger’s North Face—beating his own record! That same year he climbed all 82 four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps within 62 days (traveling between the peaks by bicycle), and summited Annapurna’s south face in 28 hours. But the dramatic events of the previous two years—the internationally reported conflict with Sherpas at Mount Everest, and the discovery of Alex Lowe’s body on Shishapangma—changed him and made him rethink his approach to the mountains. After withdrawing from the sport for a period, Ueli rediscovered his love of climbing, and in this memoir he explains how his perspective changed. While his drive to achieve in the mountains hadn’t diminished, an evaluation of his experiences helped him find a new way to process the emotional and mental challenges that shaped his athletic outlook. Structured around key climbs, Ueli Steck: My Life in Climbing provides the history of each mountain and route, Ueli’s reasons for attempting it, what happened on each climb itself, and what he learned from the experience. It also includes some fascinating insights into his training regimen. Ueli infuses his story with the joy and freedom of climbing and running. He is honest, direct and, at times, exhibits the self-absorption common to many elite athletes. Ultimately, however, his experiences brought him to a place of self-awareness and he was no longer the same climber who first set the speed record on the Eiger’s North Face. Ueli was determined that he would take only acceptable risks. Unfortunately, Ueli’s bar for risk was still very high—he died while on a training climb on the Himalayan peak Nuptse on April 30, 2017. (from Mountaineers Books website)
- Contents
- Everest : when the world suddenly changes -- Annapurna I : first the glory, then the fall from grace -- Shishapangma : a step too far -- All 4000-meter peaks in the Alps : rediscovering the joy of climbing -- Eiger : the fascination of speed -- Afterword by Steve House -- Translator's note.
- ISBN
- 9781680511321
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G512 U45 S74
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Mountaineers Books website
Websites
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
Young at Heart: The Inspirational Lives of Richard and Louise Guy - sound recordings
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55058
- Part Of
- Chic Scott fonds
- Scope & Content
- Series consists of four sound recordings pertaining to Young at Heart: The Inspirational Lives of Richard and Louise Guy. Includes interviews of Richard Guy and Mary Lynn McCutcher.
- Date Range
- 2011 - 2012
- Reference Code
- S47 / XIII
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- GMD
- Sound recording
- Cassette
- Part Of
- Chic Scott fonds
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- Fonds Number
- M57 / V40 / S47
- Series
- S47 XIII: Young at Heart: The Inspirational Lives of Richard and Louise Guy
- Sous-Fonds
- S47
- Accession Number
- .
- Reference Code
- S47 / XIII
- Date Range
- 2011 - 2012
- Physical Description
- 4 sound recordings
- History / Biographical
- Richard Guy (1916-2020) and Louise (Thirian) Guy (1918-2010) met in England in 1937, and married in Nottingham on December 21, 1940. The couple had three children together: Mike, Peter and Elizabeth. Louise attended school in Leicester for domestic science, and began working as a teacher during World War II. Louise was involved in numerous charities and community organizations, and supported various disadvantaged groups including deaf students and individuals with leprosy. Louise and Richard moved to Canada in 1965, where Richard worked at the University of Calgary as a professor of mathematics. Richard also served as department head at the university starting in 1966. Richard and Louise were avid hikers and climbers, and the couple went on countless expeditions together in the Rockies over the following four decades. Richard and Louise joined the Alpine Club of Canada, attending about 30 camps each and completing hundreds of summits. In 2015, using a generous donation made by Richard in Louise's memory, the Alpine Club of Canada erected the Louise and Richard Guy Hut on the Wapta Icefield. Summary of "Young at Heart": Do you think that you are over the hill? You have retired and you feel there is not much more to look forward to. Well think again! This book about the inspirational lives of Richard and Louise Guy, will show you that there is a great deal of life beyond the set retirement age of 65 — and beyond 75 and beyond 85. Arriving in Canada in 1965, near the age of 50, Richard and Louise Guy taught all of us what it means to be enthusiastic, positive and to embrace life. They climbed mountains well into their nineties, and Richard still works today at the age of 96. Louise rode her bike to the corner store until she was 92. So stop your whining about your knees and hips! Life was never meant to be easy! But it can still be beautiful, long past the so-called age of youth and dreams. Life into old age can be a treasure to be enjoyed and shared. And if you are like Richard and Louise, the adventures and dreams just keep coming.
- Scope & Content
- Series consists of four sound recordings pertaining to Young at Heart: The Inspirational Lives of Richard and Louise Guy. Includes interviews of Richard Guy and Mary Lynn McCutcher.
- Notes
- Series consists of 4 recorded interviews: S47 / XIII / 1 to 3 : Richard Guy 26-Dec-11 S47 / XIII / 4 : Mary Lynn McCutcher [n.d.]
- Subject Access
- Biography
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Family and personal life
- Climbing
- Exploration
- Travel
- Sports and recreation
- Correspondence
- Mountaineering
- Hiking
- Research
- Publication
- Geographic Access
- Canada
- Alberta
- Calgary
- Canadian Rocky Mountains
- Language
- English
- Biographical Source Notes
- http://chicscott.com/books.htm https://gripped.com/news/canadian-climbing-legend-richard-guy-dies-at-103/ https://www.jbmusictherapy.com/louise-guy-lived-her-best-life/
- Title Source
- Title based on contents of file
- Processing Status
- Processed
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
Young at Heart: The Inspirational Lives of Richard and Louise Guy - visual
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55059
- Part Of
- Chic Scott fonds
- Scope & Content
- Series consists of images used in the creation or final published version of Young at Heart: The Inspirational Lives of Richard and Louise Guy. Includes digital images, a copy of film "Remembering Louise", printed reference sheets of 223 images, and corresponding summary notes pertaining to photogr…
- Date Range
- 2011 - 2012
- Reference Code
- V40 / XIII
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- GMD
- Photograph
- Part Of
- Chic Scott fonds
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- Fonds Number
- M57 / V40 / S47
- Series
- V40 / XIII: Young at Heart: The Inspirational Lives of Richard and Louise Guy
- Sous-Fonds
- V40
- Accession Number
- .
- Reference Code
- V40 / XIII
- GMD
- Photograph
- Date Range
- 2011 - 2012
- Physical Description
- 2 recording discs (129 digital image files) -- 1 DVD (film) -- 223 photographs (printed reference images: col.) -- 0.5 cm of textual records
- History / Biographical
- Richard Guy (1916-2020) and Louise (Thirian) Guy (1918-2010) met in England in 1937, and married in Nottingham on December 21, 1940. The couple had three children together: Mike, Peter and Elizabeth. Louise attended school in Leicester for domestic science, and began working as a teacher during World War II. Louise was involved in numerous charities and community organizations, and supported various disadvantaged groups including deaf students and individuals with leprosy. Louise and Richard moved to Canada in 1965, where Richard worked at the University of Calgary as a professor of mathematics. Richard also served as department head at the university starting in 1966. Richard and Louise were avid hikers and climbers, and the couple went on countless expeditions together in the Rockies over the following four decades. Richard and Louise joined the Alpine Club of Canada, attending about 30 camps each and completing hundreds of summits. In 2015, using a generous donation made by Richard in Louise's memory, the Alpine Club of Canada erected the Louise and Richard Guy Hut on the Wapta Icefield. Summary of "Young at Heart": Do you think that you are over the hill? You have retired and you feel there is not much more to look forward to. Well think again! This book about the inspirational lives of Richard and Louise Guy, will show you that there is a great deal of life beyond the set retirement age of 65 — and beyond 75 and beyond 85. Arriving in Canada in 1965, near the age of 50, Richard and Louise Guy taught all of us what it means to be enthusiastic, positive and to embrace life. They climbed mountains well into their nineties, and Richard still works today at the age of 96. Louise rode her bike to the corner store until she was 92. So stop your whining about your knees and hips! Life was never meant to be easy! But it can still be beautiful, long past the so-called age of youth and dreams. Life into old age can be a treasure to be enjoyed and shared. And if you are like Richard and Louise, the adventures and dreams just keep coming.
- Scope & Content
- Series consists of images used in the creation or final published version of Young at Heart: The Inspirational Lives of Richard and Louise Guy. Includes digital images, a copy of film "Remembering Louise", printed reference sheets of 223 images, and corresponding summary notes pertaining to photographs.
- Subject Access
- Family and personal life
- Biography
- Climbing
- Exploration
- Travel
- Club
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Mountains
- Mountaineering
- Hiking
- Research
- Publication
- Sports and recreation
- Geographic Access
- Canada
- Alberta
- Calgary
- Canadian Rocky Mountains
- Access Restrictions
- Reference only
- Reproduction Restrictions
- Restricted: copyright remains with creator not museum
- Language
- English
- Biographical Source Notes
- http://chicscott.com/books.htm
- Title Source
- Title based on contents of file
- Processing Status
- Processed
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
Young at Heart: The Inspirational Lives of Richard and Louise Guy [textual]
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55060
- Part Of
- Chic Scott fonds
- Scope & Content
- Series consists of drafts, correspondence and other textual records pertaining to the creation of the book Young at Heart.
- Date Range
- 2011 - 2012
- Reference Code
- M57 / XIII
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- GMD
- Textual record
- Part Of
- Chic Scott fonds
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- Fonds Number
- M57 / V40 / S47
- Series
- M57 / XIII: Young at Heart: The Inspirational Lives of Richard and Louise Guy
- Sous-Fonds
- M57
- Sub-Series
- M57 / XIII / A: Manuscript Draft
- M57 / XIII / B: Correspondence
- M57 / XIII / C: Research Records
- Accession Number
- .
- Reference Code
- M57 / XIII
- GMD
- Textual record
- Date Range
- 2011 - 2012
- Physical Description
- 1 cm of textual records
- History / Biographical
- Richard Guy (1916-2020) and Louise (Thirian) Guy (1918-2010) met in England in 1937, and married in Nottingham on December 21, 1940. The couple had three children together: Mike, Peter and Elizabeth. Louise attended school in Leicester for domestic science, and began working as a teacher during World War II. Louise was involved in numerous charities and community organizations, and supported various disadvantaged groups including deaf students and individuals with leprosy. Louise and Richard moved to Canada in 1965, where Richard worked at the University of Calgary as a professor of mathematics. Richard also served as department head at the university starting in 1966. Richard and Louise were avid hikers and climbers, and the couple went on countless expeditions together in the Rockies over the following four decades. Richard and Louise joined the Alpine Club of Canada, attending about 30 camps each and completing hundreds of summits. In 2015, using a generous donation made by Richard in Louise's memory, the Alpine Club of Canada erected the Louise and Richard Guy Hut on the Wapta Icefield. Summary of "Young at Heart": Do you think that you are over the hill? You have retired and you feel there is not much more to look forward to. Well think again! This book about the inspirational lives of Richard and Louise Guy, will show you that there is a great deal of life beyond the set retirement age of 65 — and beyond 75 and beyond 85. Arriving in Canada in 1965, near the age of 50, Richard and Louise Guy taught all of us what it means to be enthusiastic, positive and to embrace life. They climbed mountains well into their nineties, and Richard still works today at the age of 96. Louise rode her bike to the corner store until she was 92. So stop your whining about your knees and hips! Life was never meant to be easy! But it can still be beautiful, long past the so-called age of youth and dreams. Life into old age can be a treasure to be enjoyed and shared. And if you are like Richard and Louise, the adventures and dreams just keep coming.
- Scope & Content
- Series consists of drafts, correspondence and other textual records pertaining to the creation of the book Young at Heart.
- Notes
- Series consists of three sub-series: M57 / XIII / A: Manuscript Draft M57 / XIII / B: Correspondence M57 / XIII / C: Research Records
- Name Access
- Scott, Chic
- Guy, Richard
- Guy, Louise
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Subject Access
- Biography
- Family and personal life
- Climbing
- Exploration
- Travel
- Sports and recreation
- Correspondence
- Mountaineering
- Hiking
- Research
- Publication
- Geographic Access
- Canada
- Alberta
- Calgary
- Canadian Rocky Mountains
- Access Restrictions
- Reference only
- Reproduction Restrictions
- Restricted: copyright remains with creator not museum
- Language
- English
- Biographical Source Notes
- http://chicscott.com/books.htm https://gripped.com/news/canadian-climbing-legend-richard-guy-dies-at-103/ https://www.jbmusictherapy.com/louise-guy-lived-her-best-life/
- Title Source
- Title based on contents of file
- Processing Status
- Processed
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.