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Les conquerants de l'inutile : des Alpes a l'Annapurna
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19925
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1961
- Author
- Terray, Lionel
- Publisher
- France : Gallimard
- Edition
- 1st
- Call Number
- G512 T47 L47
1 website
- Author
- Terray, Lionel
- Responsibility
- Lionel Terray
- Edition
- 1st
- Publisher
- France : Gallimard
- Published Date
- 1961
- Physical Description
- 560 p. ; 88 illus. ; maps
- Abstract
- "All these faces that appear in close-up in the news or in the press are also men. The name of Lionel Terray, one of the most famous living mountaineers, comes back periodically in conversations, because he participated in a rescue or because he helped to conquer a great world summit like Annapurna or the Makalu. In The Conquerors of the Useless , it is the whole mountain and its secrets that it reveals to us without emphasis and especially without pretension. We see how a little boy can already sense his vocation and soon to live only for the mountain; how this passion led him from the Alps to the Himalayas, from Canada to Peru. Each story of his prodigious ascensions will fascinate those who know the mountain only through the cable car. Indeed, this book that Lionel Terray wrote entirely himself using notes and stories in which he fixed his memories throughout his career, was written for them. The Conquerors of the Useless is an indispensable book for anyone interested in the heroic fate of the last survivors of the Knights race. " (from publisher's website)
- Contents
- Decouverte de la montagne
- Premieres conquetes
- La guerre des Alpes
- Je rencontre Lachenal
- La face nord de l'Eiger
- Guide de grandes courses
- L'Annapurna
- Sur les sommets du monde
- Notes
- EVE-DELACROIX PRIZE OF THE FRENCH ACADEMY 1962
- French edition signed by Lionel Terray
- Newsclipping tucked inside entitled "La mort de Lionel Terray a stufefie les membres du Ski Club"
- ISBN
- 2070262146
- Accession Number
- AC636
- Call Number
- G512 T47 L47
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Publication information on publisher's website
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End of the rope : mountains, marriage, and motherhood
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25047
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Redford, Jan
- Publisher
- Berkeley, California : Counterpoint Press
- Call Number
- G512 E53 R43
1 website
- Author
- Redford, Jan
- Publisher
- Berkeley, California : Counterpoint Press
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- x, 303 pages, 24 unnumbered pages of plates
- Subjects
- Rock climbing
- Mountaineering
- Women
- Biography
- Abstract
- In this funny and gritty debut memoir, praised by Outside, Sierra, Alpinist, and more, Jan Redford grows from a reckless rock climber to a mother who fights to win back her future. As a teenager, she sets her sights on the improbable dream of climbing mountains. By age twenty, she’s a climber with a magnetic attraction to misadventures and the wrong men. Redford finally finds the love of her life, an affable Rockies climber. When he is killed in an avalanche in Alaska, a grieving Redford finds comfort in the arms of another extreme alpinist. Before long, they are married, with a baby on the way. While her husband works as a logger, Redford tackles the traditional role of wife and mother. But soon, she pursues her own dream, one that pits her against her husband. End of the Rope is Redford’s telling of heart-stopping adventures, from being rescued off El Capitan to leading a group of bumbling cadets across a glacier. It is her laughter-filled memoir of friendships with women in that masculine world. Most moving, this is the story of her struggle to make her own way in the mountains and in life. To lead, not follow. (from Counterpoint Press website)
- Contents
- First climb -- On the rocks -- Lion's layback -- The rescue -- Speed ruts -- Learning to roll -- Bugaboo -- World's toughest milkman -- Fragile ice -- We're gathered here today -- Aberdeen -- Show no fear -- Climbing girlfriend -- The final last straw -- The memo -- In the arms of a mountain -- The underwear drawer -- Teetering on the edge -- Pink wedding dress -- The waiting -- Miracles -- Into the shadows -- Back on the sharp end -- Yodel village -- You lead, I'll follow -- Carsick -- Die young, stay pretty -- Grant's lunch -- Fractured -- Playing dead -- Mama spiders -- Remember the lilac -- Power surge -- Leaving Chaba -- Only four years -- One little "non" -- Second chances.
- ISBN
- 9780345812315
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G512 E53 R43
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Counterpoint Press website
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Fall of heaven : Whymper's tragic Matterhorn climb
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25031
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Messner, Reinhold (author)
- Bierling, Billi (translator)
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- G512 F35 M47
1 website
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 206 pages
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Whymper, Edward
- Biography
- Matterhorn
- Abstract
- As Fall of Heaven begins, we join professional mountain guide Jean-Antoine Carrel as he tries and fails, again and again, to summit the Matterhorn—one of the most famous and iconic peaks in the Alps. Is it the “Devil’s mountain,” as the locals call it? Should he heed the village priest who warned that its summit was not meant to be climbed? Carrel is undeterred, he just needs capable climbers to join him. Enter Edward Whymper, who in 1861 at the age of 21 decided—unbeknownst to Carrel—that he would be the first to climb the Matterhorn. So the storyline is set, except that where Carrel is captivating, Whymper is utterly unsympathetic as an adventurer. He is mean and disdainful of guides, describing them as little more than porters who eat and drink too much. Despite this attitude, Whymper’s quest leads him inexorably into partnership with Carrel. The story follows their many attempts to find a route to the top of the Matterhorn, but then fate pulls them apart just as Whymper finds the line. His successful summit on July 14, 1865, in which Carrel did not take part, shocked the Victorian world with both awe and revulsion as four members of Whymper’s party died in frightening falls. Famed climber and author Reinhold Messner acknowledges that Whymper was the first man to summit the Matterhorn, the last of the great Alpine peaks to be climbed and representing the beginning of an age of alpinism based on difficulty rather than conquest. But rather than leaving a hero’s legacy, Whymper is revealed as the Captain Ahab of alpinism, a team leader who accepted no responsibility for the deaths of his teammates. Fall of Heaven is an exciting tale and an examination of the different types of men who were caught up in the adventuring spirit of the Victorian age, and the ironic fates that can follow success or failure. (from Mountaineers Books website)
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019
- ISBN
- 9781680510850
- Accession Number
- AC638
- Call Number
- G512 F35 M47
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Mountaineers Books website
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Himalaya - the tribulations of mick & vic
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25045
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Fowler, Mick
- Saunders, Victor
- Publisher
- LULU.COM
- Call Number
- G512 H56 F69
1 website
- Author
- Fowler, Mick
- Saunders, Victor
- Publisher
- LULU.COM
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 267 pages : ill.
- Abstract
- Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders, famed British alpinists learned to know each other while winter climbing in Scotland, in all kind of weather, mostly bad: an ideal stepping stone for great Himalayan adventures. They shared three expeditions in Pakistan: The ascents of Bojohagur (7329m), Spantik (7027m) and Ultar (7388m). The tales of these selected adventures, published separately over three of their books (rewarded several times - Banff festival, Boardman Tasker), have been assembled in a new book: HIMALAYA - Mick and Vic' Tribulations. The two pals' tales are intertwined and offer two visions sometimes similar, sometimes different of the same events, with a caustic humour at the turn of every single line. This refreshing, compelling text full of funny and uncommon anecdotes is also the story of their strong friendship. Besides the amateurs of mountaineering tales, this book should please the amateurs of unconventional atmospheres. (from Lulu website)
- Contents
- Forward
- Prelude
- Part One - in Great-Britain
- Part Two - Bojohaghur, 1984
- Part Three - Spantik, 1987
- Part Four - Ultar, 1991
- Apologue
- Twenty Nine Years After
- ISBN
- 9781326804817
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G512 H56 F69
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on LULU website
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Honouring high places : the mountain life of Junko Tabei
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19852
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Tabei, Junko
- Rolfe, Helen Y.
- Publisher
- Victoria, BC : Rocky Mountain Books Ltd
- Edition
- 1st ed.
- Call Number
- G512 T33 H66
1 website
- Author
- Tabei, Junko
- Rolfe, Helen Y.
- Responsibility
- Junko Tabei and Helen Y. Rolfe, translated by Yumiko Hiraki and Rieko Holtved
- Edition
- 1st ed.
- Publisher
- Victoria, BC : Rocky Mountain Books Ltd
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 376 pages
- Abstract
- "A collection of personal stories and reflections based on the memoirs of Junko Tabei, the first woman to climb Mount Everest and the Seven Summits. Honouring High Places is a compelling collection of highlights from Junko Tabei's stirring life that she considered important, inspiring and interesting to mountaineering culture. Until now, her works have been available only in Japanese, and RMB is honoured to be sharing these profound and moving stories with the English-speaking world for the first time. The collection opens on Mount Everest, where the first all-women's expedition is met with disaster but pushes on against all odds. The story then shifts to the early years of Tabei's life and reflects on her countryside childhood as a frail girl with no talent for sport, and cultural expectations that ignored her passion for mountains. With reminiscences of the early days of female climbers on Everest, the deaths of fellow mountaineers, Tabei's pursuit of Mount Tomur, a cancer diagnosis, and efforts to restore a love for nature in the surviving youth of the Fukushima earthquake and tsunami that hit Japan in 2011, this beautifully curated collection of essays captures the essence of a notable time and the strength of character of one of the 20th and 21st centuries' female mountaineering pioneers."-- Provided by publisher.
- Contents
- Author's note
- Introduction by Setsuko Kitamura
- Chapter 1 - avalanche!
- Chapter 2 - the meaning of mountains
- Chapter 3 - Annapurna III
- Chapter 4 - Mount Everest
- Chapter 5 - to the top ofthe world
- Chapter 6 - the route
- Chapter 7 - finalists
- Chapter 8 - South Col
- Chapter 9 - the summit
- Chapter 10 - endgame
- Chapter 11 - women on Everest
- Chapter 12 - Mount Tombur, Pobeda Peak
- Chapter 13 - Aconcagua
- Chapter 14 - Carstensz Pyramid
- Chapter 15 - mountains of later life
- About Junko by Masanobu Tabei
- A son's tribute by Shinya Tabei
- Beyond mountains by Setsuko Kitamura
- Life chronology
- Glossary
- Acknowledgements
- References
- Index
- Notes
- Winner of the Mountaineering History category at the 2018 Banff Mountain Book Competition Awards
- ISBN
- 9780771602167
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- G512 T33 H66
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- 2018 Banff Mountain Book Competition Awards website
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Karakoram : climbing through the Kashmir conflict
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19903
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Swenson, Steve
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- DS485 S94 K37
1 website
- Author
- Swenson, Steve
- Responsibility
- Steven Swenson
- Publisher
- Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 315 p. : illustrations (some colour)
- Subjects
- Kashmir
- Mountaineering
- Karakoram Range
- Karakorum Mountains
- Pakistan
- Everest, Mount
- Biography
- Abstract
- Pertains to the climbs attempted by Steven Swenson from 1980 to 2015 in the Karakoram range as they related to the Kashmir conflict
- Contents
- Foreward by Greg Child
- Author's note
- Preface
- Map legend
- Map of the Karakoram region
- Chapter 1 - to Pakistan
- Chapter 2 - elusive summits
- Chapter 3 - K2 at last
- Chapter 4 - life and death
- Chapter 5 - Everest
- Chapter 6 - one more try
- Chapter 7 - after 9/11
- Chapter 8 - the killer mountain
- Chapter 9 - the world's hardest mountains
- Chapter 10 - the risk of regret
- Chapter 11 - attack
- Chapter 12 - passing the torch
- Sources
- Acknoledgements
- Index
- ISBN
- 9780594859731
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- DS485 S94 K37
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- American Alpine Club article
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A mountaineer's life : Allen Steck
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19905
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Steck, Allen
- Publisher
- Ventura, California : Patagonia Books
- Call Number
- G512 S74 M68
1 website
- Author
- Steck, Allen
- Responsibility
- Allen Steck
- Publisher
- Ventura, California : Patagonia Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 254 p, : illustrations (some colour)
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Biography
- Abstract
- Pertains to the life of Allen Steck, rock climber and alpinist.
- Contents
- Forward
- Preface
- Formative years
- Big Climbs
- Childhood, family, and business
- Close calls and other adventures
- Perspectives
- ISBN
- 9781938340703
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- G512 S74 M68
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- American Alpine Club article
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No easy way : the challenging life of the climbing taxman
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25041
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2018
- Author
- Fowler, Mick
- Publisher
- Sheffield : Vertebrate Publishing
- Call Number
- G512 N64 F69
1 website
- Author
- Fowler, Mick
- Publisher
- Sheffield : Vertebrate Publishing
- Published Date
- 2018
- Physical Description
- ix, 241 pages : illustrations
- Subjects
- Biography
- Mountaineering
- Travel
- Abstract
- In No Easy Way, his third volume of climbing memoirs following Vertical Pleasure and On Thin Ice, Fowler recounts a series of expeditions to stunning mountains in China, India, Nepal and Tibet. Alongside partners including Paul Ramsden, Dave Turnbull, Andy Cave and Victor Saunders, he attempts striking, technically challenging unclimbed lines on Shiva, Gave Ding and Mugu Chuli – with a number of ascents winning prestigious Piolets d’Or, the Oscars of the mountaineering world. Written with his customary dry wit and understatement, he manages challenges away – the art of securing a permit for Tibet – and at home – his duties as Alpine Club president – all the while pursuing his passion for exploratory mountaineering. (from Vertebrate Publishing website)
- Contents
- The competing priorities of life -- Grosvenor: The dangers of cupping -- Kalaqiao: Hands drawn together in prayer -- The Goody Cash: Scottish sea cliffs at their best -- Manamcho: I've never seen a white man before -- Nottingham Castle 1: Challenges close to the office -- Vasuki Parbat: The judgement game -- Fell running: A new mildly eccentric form of exercise? -- Jura success: A passion is born -- Sulamar: The hottest bathtub ever -- The Xiate Trail: Trade routes can be challenging too -- Alpine Club: The establishment beckons -- Mugu Chuli: The bureaucrats go climbing -- Nottingham Castle 2: A brush with the constabulary -- The Prow of Shiva: Are we good enough to do it? -- Kishtwar Kailash: A very special drive and a 12.5-million-view video clip -- Talking about it... -- Hagshu: The bear, the tension, and the climb -- Gave Ding: True adventure -- Sersank: Never too old -- The challenges never end.
- ISBN
- 9781911342755
- Accession Number
- AC693
- Call Number
- G512 N64 F69
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Vertebrate Publishing website
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Norton of Everest : the biography of E.F. Norton, soldier and mountaineer
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19919
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Norton, Hugh
- Publisher
- Sheffield, England : Vertebrate Publishing
- Call Number
- G512 N67 N67
1 website
- Author
- Norton, Hugh
- Publisher
- Sheffield, England : Vertebrate Publishing
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 208 p.
- Subjects
- Biography
- Mountaineering
- World War I
- Everest, Mount
- Abstract
- E.F. Norton lived a life of distinction in the declining years of the British Empire. Born into an accomplished, well-travelled family, he followed his heart and enlisted for a professional career as a soldier. A distinguished military career followed, punctuated with indulgences in his passion for exploration and mountaineering. The British Empire was starting to crumble, and Norton would be called upon more than once to rise to a variety of challenges.Norton’s gift for leadership was first demonstrated via his rapid progression through the ranks in the First World War, which paved the way for future leadership appointments, having earned the confidence and respect of those under his command. Events in the Second World War followed suit, when Norton was abruptly assigned the post of acting governor of Hong Kong, entrusted to save the civilian population from imminent Japanese invasion. The 1924 Everest expedition also exemplifies the pattern of having had leadership thrust upon him – in this case when General Charles Bruce was struck down by malaria on the approach march. Leading from the front, Norton set an altitude record for climbing on Everest without supplementary oxygen – a record only bettered in 1978 when Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made the first ascent of Everest without oxygen. Yet tragedy would follow Norton’s achievement, when George Mallory and Andrew Irvine disappeared high on the mountain. In Norton of Everest, Hugh Norton has written sensitively and knowledgably about his father’s remarkable life as mountaineer, soldier, naturalist, artist and family man. As on Everest, the real story is not only the death of the gallant, but also the heroics of the quiet survivors like E.F. Norton. (from publisher's website)
- Contents
- Foreward by Wade Davis
- Preface
- Chapter 1 - The early years
- Chapter 2 - Soldiering
- Chapter 3 - A pen portrait
- Chapter 4 - Mountaineering
- Chapter 5 - The middle years
- Chapter 6 - Acting governor of Hong Kong
- Chapter 7 - Retirement
- Appendices
- Acknowledgements
- ISBN
- 9781910240922
- Accession Number
- AC635
- Call Number
- G512 N67 N67
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Publisher's website
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Paul Preuss, lord of the abyss : life and death at the birth of free-climbing
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25054
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2019
- Author
- Smart, David
- Publisher
- Toronto : Rocky Mountain Books
- Call Number
- G513 P38 S63
1 website
- Author
- Smart, David
- Publisher
- Toronto : Rocky Mountain Books
- Published Date
- 2019
- Physical Description
- 248 pages : illus.
- Subjects
- Rock climbing
- History
- Biography
- Abstract
- In the months before his death in 1913, from falling more than 300 metres during an attempt to make the first free solo ascent of the North Ridge of the Mandlkogel, Paul Preuss’s public presentations on his climbing adventures filled concert halls in Austria, Italy, and Germany. George Mallory, the famed English mountaineer who died on Mount Everest in 1924, said “no one will ever equal Preuss.“ Reinhold Messner, the first climber to ascend all fourteen 8000 metre peaks, was so impressed by the young Austrian’s achievements that he built a mountaineering museum around Preuss’s piton hammer, wrote two books (in German) about him and instituted a foundation in Preuss’s name. Alex Honnold, the first and only person to free solo El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, has thought about Preuss’ untimely and surprising death and imagined it to have likely been “the worst four seconds” of Preuss’ life. Although he died at only 27 years old, modern climbing may never have developed the ethical, existential core that it has today if not for Preuss’s bold style. Even the most trenchant traditionalists remain unsure about whether to add him to their pantheon or dismiss him as at worst a lunatic or at best an indelicate subject better left ignored. Smart’s biography is the first English language volume to be published and is certain to bring the remarkable story of Paul Preuss to a whole new generation of climbers. (from Rocky Mountain Books website)
- Contents
- Introduction : Paul Preuss
- The boy who loved flowers and mountains
- The student mountaineer : Vienna, 1907-1910
- Schneid : Planspitze, Matterhorn, 1908
- Jesus of the Dorotheergasse, 1909
- Dolomites : the Devil's Lair, Summer 1910
- In Munich, the city of climbers
- Allein : five days that changed climbing, summer 1911
- A crazy notion : the great dispute, 1911-12
- Doctor Preuss presents
- Life as a trifle : the Kaisergebirge, Northern Limestone and the Western Alps, 1912-13
- Valhalla : Mandlkogel North Face, October 1913
- The sleeper of Altaussee
- Acknowledgements
- Selected bibliography
- Notes
- Index
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019 shortlist for Mountain Literature
- ISBN
- 9781771603232
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- G513 P38 S63
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Summary on Rocky Mountain Books website
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