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Alpine rising : Sherpas, Baltis, and the triumph of local climbers in the great ranges
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue26251
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2024
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- Seattle, WA : Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- 01.1 M14a
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- Seattle, WA : Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2024
- Physical Description
- 269 pages
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Mountains
- Climbing
- Himalaya Mountains
- Sherpa
- Sherpa-history
- Nepal
- Abstract
- The story of the often unheralded and unrecognized stars of climbing in the Himalaya and the Karakoram: the local inhabitants of the mountainous regions of Pakistan, Tibet, India, and Nepal who have been support staff--porters, cooks, sirdars, and unacknowledged guides--for Western climbers for generations. ALPINE RISING focuses on the experiences and accomplishments of these Sherpas, Baltis, Ladakhis, Hunzas, Astoris, Magars, Bhotias, Rais, and Gurangs. Highlighted climbers range from Raghubir Thapa and Goman Singh who climbed with Albert Mummery in 1895, Ang Tharkay who climbed with Eric Shipton and Maurice Herzog, and Tenzing Norgay who, along with Edmund Hillary, was the first to summit Everest, to today's superstars, Ali Sadpara, Mingma G, Kama Rita, and others -- Provided by publisher.
- ISBN
- 9781680515787
- Accession Number
- P2024.02
- Call Number
- 01.1 M14a
- Collection
- Archives Library
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- Date
- 1942 – 1947
- Material
- fibre
- Catalogue Number
- 103.09.1111 a-d
- Description
- Four athletic patches from Banff. (a) Horseshoe shape, white background with a band of red and inside a nicely drawn head of a bison. The red is a piece of fabric sewn on separately. (b) Yellow with black "labor omnia vincit knowledge BHS" (c) Shield shape dark blue with red trim "Banff J.H.C. …
1 image
- Title
- Athletic Patch
- Date
- 1942 – 1947
- Material
- fibre
- Description
- Four athletic patches from Banff. (a) Horseshoe shape, white background with a band of red and inside a nicely drawn head of a bison. The red is a piece of fabric sewn on separately. (b) Yellow with black "labor omnia vincit knowledge BHS" (c) Shield shape dark blue with red trim "Banff J.H.C. 42 43" (d) Irregularly shaped "Banff Alta. Int'mte Champions '46 '47 Mountaineers"
- Credit
- Gift of Bob Edwards, Banff, 1988
- Catalogue Number
- 103.09.1111 a-d
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Athletic Patch
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/artifact103.09.1029
- Date
- 1945 – 1946
- Material
- fibre
- Catalogue Number
- 103.09.1029
- Description
- Yellow felt ice hockey player, red "M" on sweater appliqued against background of mountains and trees, contained in large, round patch. "Banff" in red arced behind player's head. "Mountaineers" in white on red motto banner flowing across bottom of patch. Details accented by machine stitching.
1 image
- Title
- Athletic Patch
- Date
- 1945 – 1946
- Material
- fibre
- Dimensions
- 16.5 x 14.2 cm
- Description
- Yellow felt ice hockey player, red "M" on sweater appliqued against background of mountains and trees, contained in large, round patch. "Banff" in red arced behind player's head. "Mountaineers" in white on red motto banner flowing across bottom of patch. Details accented by machine stitching.
- Subject
- sports
- winter
- hockey
- Banff Mountaineers
- Credit
- Gift of Hilda Stuckert, Banff, 1984
- Catalogue Number
- 103.09.1029
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Display photographs
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions1041
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Scope & Content
- Display photographs consists of photographs selected and numbered by the ACC for display in clubhouses, huts and other locations. Photographic subjects include mountain peaks, landscapes and scenery, both regional and international; mountaineering and alpine recreation; camps and expeditions; flor…
- Date Range
- 1890-1958
- Reference Code
- V14 / AC 00P / 001-444
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- GMD
- Photograph
- Photograph print
16 images
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- Fonds Number
- M200 / S6 / V14
- Series
- I.A.1 Administration: series I, predom. dates 1906-1949
- Sous-Fonds
- V14
- Sub-Series
- j.ii. Photography : Display photographs
- Accession Number
- 5200
- Reference Code
- V14 / AC 00P / 001-444
- Date Range
- 1890-1958
- Physical Description
- ca.400 photographs : prints
- History / Biographical
- See fonds level description.
- Scope & Content
- Display photographs consists of photographs selected and numbered by the ACC for display in clubhouses, huts and other locations. Photographic subjects include mountain peaks, landscapes and scenery, both regional and international; mountaineering and alpine recreation; camps and expeditions; flora and fauna; clubhouse views; and portraits of mountaineers, alpine club members, executive officers and prominent personalities. Also includes a group photograph of the 1906 founding meeting of the Alpine Club of Canada in Winnipeg (ACOOP/77)
- Included are ca.180 photographs which were submitted to the ACC though various photographic competitions (AC 00P / 11, 21, 29, 30, 32, 36, 41, 55 - 57, 63, 76, 109, 111, 202, 223, 230, 240, 244, 284 - 443).
- Notes
- LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHERS :
- George Ashley Abraham AC00P/107,209;
- Ansel Adams AC00P/119,120,254;
- M. Alford AC00P/45-54,59-60;
- L. S. Amery AC00P/229,333-337;
- Associated Screen News AC00P/206;
- Jack Atkinson AC00P/417,434;
- M. P. Bridgland AC00P/292,294;
- Clair Brown AC00P/44;
- H. E. Bulyea AC00P/41,284,291;
- Lucy Byrd AC00P/431,432;
- Carleton Studio AC00P/89;
- J. Norman Collie AC00P/151;
- B. Conrad AC00P/42;
- Florence Parker Davoll AC00P/368-370,390,391,401,408;
- Winnie Dennison AC00P/423;
- Mrs. H. B. Dixon AC00P/227;
- Mary (Winstone) Enoch AC00P/412,427;
- Mary Fallis AC00P/418;
- Bob Francis AC00P/106;
- Nelly Fraser AC00P/439;
- Tom Fyles AC00P/321,322,346-348;
- J. M. Garrison AC00P/201;
- Gay-Coutlett AC00P/33;
- E. Gee AC00P/351;
- Herman Genschorek AC00P/63,410,411,413-416;
- Lillian Gest AC00P/338-345;
- E. R. (Rex) Gibson AC00P/429;
- A. Gully AC00P/238,239;
- Roy Gunn AC00P/443;
- H. S. Hall Jr. AC00P/295;
- Byron Harmon AC00P/131;
- Jimmie Hendrie AC00P/433;
- Julia W. Henshaw AC00P/26,27;
- Charles F. Hogeboom Jr. AC00P/293;
- Roy Howard AC00P/437;
- Mary L. Jobe AC00P/129;
- H. F. Lambart AC00P/218;
- Miss Lymburn AC00P/313;
- F. A. MacFadden AC00P/310-312;
- Leonard H. Marvin AC00P/110,116;
- A. A. McCoubrey AC00P/11,285-289,330,331;
- D. J. M. McGeary AC00P/57;
- ?. Mills AC00P/240;
- C. H. Mitchell AC00P/249;
- Stanley H. Mitchell AC00P/84,235;
- Don Munday AC00P/14,352,425;
- Phyl Munday AC00P/28,332,350,389,392-395,398,402,403,406,424,426,440-442;
- George Noble AC00P/236;
- Notman & Son AC00P/86;
- Edward C. Porter AC00P/266,267,268,269;
- Polly Prescott AC00P/421;
- Pringle and Booth AC00P/246;
- R.B.R. AC00P/419;
- Marguerita Schnellbachen AC00P/65;
- W. E. Stone AC00P/30,290;
- G. Morris Taylor AC00P/233;
- J. Monroe Thorington AC00P/301-303;
- Vandyk, London AC00P/222;
- M. Von Zuben AC00P/76;
- W. A. Wakefield AC00P/305;
- Charles Walcott AC00P/270-274;
- A. G. Wehrli AC00P/444;
- T. O. A. West AC00P/297,304,316;
- Jack Whellams AC00P/409;
- A. T. Wiebrecht AC00P/223,353-366,373-379,382-387,397,400;
- Walter Wilcox AC00P/20,130,136,154,255-257;
- A. O. Wheeler AC00P/207,208,212,213;
- LIST OF SUBJECTS :
- Philip Stanley Abbot AC00P/245;
- L. S. Amery AC00P/206,222;
- F. C. Bell AC00P/87;
- Cora Johnstone Best AC00P/104;
- John F. Brett AC00P/96;
- A. P. Coleman AC00P/82;
- J. H. Cuntz AC00P/116;
- Edward VII AC00P/203;
- Charles E. Fay AC00P/69;
- Sandford Fleming AC00P/250;
- W. W. Foster AC00P/76,89;
- Rex Gibson AC00P/75,90;
- H. A. V. Green AC00P/92;
- C. Hasler AC00P/134;
- James Hector AC00P/93;
- J. W. A. Hickson AC00P/86;
- John Hunter AC00P/264;
- Judas Hunter AC00P/238;
- Enos Hunter AC00P/239;
- Stanley L. Jones AC00P/242;
- Lino Lacedelli AC00P/268;
- Ben Lomond AC00P/411;
- C. H. Mitchell AC00P/79;
- John Muir AC00P/66;
- A. H. MacCarthy AC00P/70,76;
- Leonard H. Marvin;
- S. H. Mitchell AC00P/84,235;
- T. B. Moffat AC00P/83;
- Don Munday AC00P/74;
- Phyl Munday AC00P/418;
- Tenzing Norgay AC00P/72;
- James Outram AC00P/80;
- J. D. Patterson AC00P/98;
- Elfreda Pigou AC00P/418;
- H. E. Sampson AC00P/97;
- Benjamin Frank Seaver AC00P/110,115?,116,243;
- A. S. Sibbald AC00P/95;
- W. E. Stone AC00P/73;
- W. R. Tweedy AC00P/81;
- Sidney R. Vallance AC00P/91;
- Frank N. Waterman AC00P/237;
- C. G. Wates AC00P/94;
- A. O. Wheeler AC00P/206;
- E. O. Wheeler AC00P/71,85;
- Hector Wheeler AC00P/247;
- Edward Whymper AC00P/93,251;
- Walter Wilcox AC00P/264;
- Tom Wilson AC00P/236,264;
- T. Fraser, L.O. Armstrong, Tom Martin, W. H. Bedford, Alex Gordon; Jean Parker, Stanley Wills, Stanley Mitchell, L. Q. Coleman; J. W. Kelly, W. J. Taylor, A. O. Wheeler, Elizabeth Parker, E. A. Haggan, J. C. Herdman, A. P. Coleman, Dean Paget, William Brewster ACOOP/77
- Name Access
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Subject Access
- Abbot Pass Hut
- Activities
- Administration
- Advertising
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Alpine Club House
- Cabins
- Cabins and shelters
- Camps
- Club
- Competition
- Discovery and exploration
- Environment
- Environment and Nature
- Exploration
- Guide
- Guides
- Hiking
- Huts
- Mountain
- Mountain guides
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Mountains
- National parks and reserves
- Organizations
- Photography
- Scenery
- Sports and recreation
- Summit
- Geographic Access
- Banff National Park
- Jasper National Park
- Yoho National Park
- Alberta
- British Columbia
- Canada
- Language
- English
- Related Material
- Competition photographs are related to other competition photographs in the ACC fonds.
- Title Source
- Title based on original use of the material
- Processing Status
- Processed
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Edward Feuz Jr. : a story of enchantment
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25535
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2021
- Author
- Stephen, D. L.
- Publisher
- Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
- Call Number
- 08.3 Stem4e
- Author
- Stephen, D. L.
- Publisher
- Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
- Published Date
- 2021
- Physical Description
- 318 pages
- Subjects
- Feuz, Edward
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers, Swiss
- Guide
- Swiss Guides Village, Edelweiss, B.C.
- Tourism
- History-Canada
- Rocky Mountains
- Abstract
- As a young Swiss boy, Edward Feuz Jr. (1884–1981) developed an insatiable passion for climbing. In time, he traded his Lausbub reputation for that of a responsible Swiss guide and was eventually drawn to Canada in the footsteps of his father, Edward Feuz Sr. (1859–1944), who was one of the first Swiss guides hired by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1898 to develop the alpinism in western Canada. Handsome and charismatic, Edward (while still in training for his trade) was instantly smitten with the Canadian landscape — and so were his guests. They raved about the young man who showed such exceptional skills. He guided them all — professors, women of independent means, students, newspaper people, a Hindu holy man, and even “Sherlock Holmes” — through untrailed forests, across roaring streams, up icy glaciers, and to the tops of rocky summits. Young and old, they were all enchanted, and so they returned time and again — to the mountains and to their friend Edward. -- From back cover
- Contents
- Pilgrims ; Edward ; How it All Began ; How we came to Share the Enchantment ; Feuz Haus ; How They Did It ; Reading the Signs ; Snapshots ; Life with Edward ; Edward's Girls
- ISBN
- 9781771605090
- Accession Number
- 2021.41
- Call Number
- 08.3 Stem4e
- Location
- Reading Room
- Collection
- Archives Library
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Edward Whymper
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue3245
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1940
- Author
- Smythe, Francis Sydney
- Publisher
- London : Hodder and Stoughton
- Call Number
- 01 W62s
- Author
- Smythe, Francis Sydney
- Publisher
- London : Hodder and Stoughton
- Published Date
- 1940
- Physical Description
- 330p. : ill., maps (fold.)
- Subjects
- Mountaineers, British
- Accession Number
- 3000
- 5891 - weed
- Call Number
- 01 W62s
- Collection
- Archives Library
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Edwin W. Mills photographs
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions7244
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Scope & Content
- Photographs pertain to Columbia Icefield ACC camp, 1938, and Bugaboo Creek ACC camp, 1946. Includes series of views of Rex Gibson cutting snowsteps.
- Date Range
- 1938, 1946
- Reference Code
- V14 / AC 020P / 01-15
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- GMD
- Photograph
- Photograph print
6 images
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- Fonds Number
- M200 / S6 / V14
- Series
- III. Personal papers and photographs
- Sous-Fonds
- V14
- Accession Number
- 5200
- Reference Code
- V14 / AC 020P / 01-15
- Date Range
- 1938, 1946
- Physical Description
- 15 photographs : prints
- Scope & Content
- Photographs pertain to Columbia Icefield ACC camp, 1938, and Bugaboo Creek ACC camp, 1946. Includes series of views of Rex Gibson cutting snowsteps.
- Name Access
- Mills, Edwin W.
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Subject Access
- Abbot Pass Hut
- Activities
- Administration
- Advertising
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Alpine Club House
- Cabins
- Cabins and shelters
- Camps
- Club
- Competition
- Discovery and exploration
- Environment
- Environment and Nature
- Exploration
- Guide
- Guides
- Hiking
- Huts
- Mountain
- Mountain guides
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Mountains
- National parks and reserves
- Organizations
- Photography
- Scenery
- Sports and recreation
- Summit
- Geographic Access
- Banff National Park
- Jasper National Park
- Yoho National Park
- Alberta
- British Columbia
- Canada
- Language
- English
- Title Source
- Title based on material
- Processing Status
- Processed
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False summit : gender in mountaineering nonfiction
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue26216
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2021
- Author
- Rak, Julie
- Publisher
- Montreal ; Kingston ; London ; Chicago : McGill-Queen's University Press
- Call Number
- 01.1 R14f
- Author
- Rak, Julie
- Publisher
- Montreal ; Kingston ; London ; Chicago : McGill-Queen's University Press
- Published Date
- 2021
- Physical Description
- xii, 268 pages : illustrations, map ; 23 cm
- Abstract
- Exploring the role of gender politics in narratives about high-altitude mountaineering in the Himalayas and the Karakoram. The race to climb Everest catapulted mountain climbing, with its accompanying images of conquest and sport, into the public sphere on a global scale. But as a metaphor for the pinnacle of human achievement, mountaineering remains the preserve of traditional white male heroism. False Summit unpacks gender politics in the expedition narratives and memoirs of mountaineers in the Himalayas and the Karakoram. Why are women still a minority in the world's highest places? Julie Rak proposes that the genre has itself reached a "false summit"--a peak that proves not to be the pinnacle--and that mountaineering is not ready to welcome other ways of climbing or other kinds of climbers. For more than two centuries mountaineering, as an activity and as an ideal, has helped shape how the self is understood within the context of conquest, adventure, and proximity to risk. As climbing shows signs of becoming more diverse, Rak asks why change is so hard to achieve and why gender bias and other inequities exist in climbing at all. Exploring classic and lesser-known expedition accounts from Everest, K2, and Annapurna, False Summit helps us understand why mountaineering remains one of the most important ways to articulate gender identities and politics. -- Provided by publisher.
- Contents
- Leadership and Gender on Annapurna -- K2: The Gendered Rope -- Everest and Authenticity -- Everest: Gender Politics and the 1996 Disaster.
- ISBN
- 9780228006268
- Accession Number
- P2024.01
- Call Number
- 01.1 R14f
- Collection
- Archives Library
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Geoffrey B. Capes papers and photographs
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions7235
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Scope & Content
- Textual items are diaries pertaining to ACC summer camps and Maligne Lake ski camp. Photographs pertain to Glacier ACC camp, 1947; Peyto Lake camp, 1948; Freshfield Glacier camp, 1949; Mount Assiniboine camp, 1952; Scott Glacier [Hooker Icefield], 1953; Glacier camp 1956; and Maligne Lake ski camp…
- Date Range
- 1947-1957
- Reference Code
- M200 / AC 372M
- V14 / AC 343P / 1-5
- V14 / AC 372P / 1-2
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- GMD
- Photograph
- Photograph print
3 images
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- Fonds Number
- M200 / S6 / V14
- Series
- III. Personal papers and photographs
- Sous-Fonds
- V14
- Accession Number
- 5200
- Reference Code
- M200 / AC 372M
- V14 / AC 343P / 1-5
- V14 / AC 372P / 1-2
- Date Range
- 1947-1957
- Physical Description
- 4 textual records. -- 271 photographs (130 prints, 129 negatives, 12 transparencies)
- Scope & Content
- Textual items are diaries pertaining to ACC summer camps and Maligne Lake ski camp. Photographs pertain to Glacier ACC camp, 1947; Peyto Lake camp, 1948; Freshfield Glacier camp, 1949; Mount Assiniboine camp, 1952; Scott Glacier [Hooker Icefield], 1953; Glacier camp 1956; and Maligne Lake ski camp, 1957. Prints have identifications on reverse.
- Name Access
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Capes, Geoffrey B.
- Subject Access
- Abbot Pass Hut
- Activities
- Administration
- Advertising
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Alpine Club House
- Cabins
- Cabins and shelters
- Camps
- Club
- Competition
- Discovery and exploration
- Environment
- Environment and Nature
- Exploration
- Guide
- Guides
- Hiking
- Huts
- Mountain
- Mountain guides
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Mountains
- National parks and reserves
- Organizations
- Photography
- Scenery
- Sports and recreation
- Summit
- Geographic Access
- Banff National Park
- Jasper National Park
- Yoho National Park
- Alberta
- British Columbia
- Canada
- Access Restrictions
- Access to negatives is by appointment only
- Language
- English
- Title Source
- Title based on material
- Processing Status
- Processed
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Hamish MacInnes : the fox of Glencoe
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25653
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2021
- Author
- MacInnes, Hamish
- Publisher
- Scotland : Scottish Mountaineering Press
- Call Number
- 01.2 M26h
1 website
- Author
- MacInnes, Hamish
- Responsibility
- Edited by Deziree Wilson
- Publisher
- Scotland : Scottish Mountaineering Press
- Published Date
- 2021
- Physical Description
- 367 pages : illustrations (some colour), portraits (some colour) ; 23 cm
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Scotland
- Biographies
- Abstract
- From a youthful solo of the Matterhorn, through historic first ascents, hunting for treasure, inventing equipment and pioneering mountain rescue, Hamish MacInnes recalls a lifetime of epic adventures in this eclectic selection of tales. His restless curiosity and pragmatic approach to risk and loss are vivdly rendered with wry, elegant style, offering unique insight into the mind of one of the greatest mountaineers of our time. -- From back cover
- ISBN
- 9781907233395
- Accession Number
- P2022.14
- Call Number
- 01.2 M26h
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Mountain Literature (Non Fiction) The Jon Whyte Award 2022 Winner
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