topic:"Mountaineers" found 174 records - Research Collections

Art of freedom : the life and climbs of Voytek Kurtyka

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19901

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Published Date: 2017

Author: McDonald, Bernadette

Publisher: Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books

Call Number: G512 M16 A78

Author: McDonald, Bernadette

Responsibility: Bernadette McDonald

Publisher: Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books

Published Date: 2017

Physical Description: 326 pages : photographs ; 24 cm

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Mountaineering; Mountaineers; Mountaineers, Polish; Biography

Abstract: "A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.

Contents: Introduction; Rock Animal; Alpinist in Training; Hindu Kush - Unleashed; Troll Wall; Bandaka - The Mordor Beauty; Hungry for Hunger; Dancing in the Moment; Enfant Terrible; Line against the Sky; The Shining Wall; Fork in the Road; Trango Tower; Night Naked; Dance of the Underclings; Chinese Maharaja; Metaphysical Think Tank; The Crux; Chronology of Selected Climbs; Acknowledgements; Notes; Sources; Index

ISBN: 9781771602129

Accession Number: AC634

Call Number: G512 M16 A78

Collection: Alpine Club of Canada Library

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Art of Freedom : the life and climbs of Voytek Kurtyka

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue2157

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Published Date: 2017

Author: McDonald, Bernadette

Publisher: Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books

Call Number: 01 Mc14a

Author: McDonald, Bernadette

Responsibility: Bernadette McDonald

Publisher: Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books

Published Date: 2017

Physical Description: 326 pages : photographs ; 24 cm

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Mountaineering; Mountaineers; Mountaineers, Polish; Biography

Abstract: "A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.

Contents: Introduction; Rock Animal; Alpinist in Training; Hindu Kush - Unleashed; Troll Wall; Bandaka - The Mordor Beauty; Hungry for Hunger; Dancing in the Moment; Enfant Terrible; Line against the Sky; The Shining Wall; Fork in the Road; Trango Tower; Night Naked; Dance of the Underclings; Chinese Maharaja; Metaphysical Think Tank; The Crux; Chronology of Selected Climbs; Acknowledgements; Notes; Sources; Index

ISBN: 9781771602129

Accession Number: 2019.11

Call Number: 01 Mc14a

Collection: Archives Library

This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and potentially offensive content. Read more.

Arthur Oliver Wheeler 1860-1945

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue13124

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Author: Higgins, Kevin

Call Number: Periodical

Author: Higgins, Kevin

Physical Description: p.7-11 : ill, port

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Alpine Club of Canada; Mountaineers, British; Surveyors; Wheeler, Arthur Oliver; Wheeler, Edward Oliver

Notes: In Journal of the Irish Mountaineering and Exploration Historical Society, vol. 2 (2005)

Call Number: Periodical

Collection: Alpine Club of Canada Library

This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and potentially offensive content. Read more.

As soon as I finish this beer : the story of the Calgary Mountain Club

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue13107

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Author: Dornian, David

Call Number: P

Author: Dornian, David

Physical Description: p.30-35 : ill

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Mountaineers, Canadian

Notes: In Gripped, vol.8, no.3 (June / July 2006)

Call Number: P

Collection: Alpine Club of Canada Library

This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and potentially offensive content. Read more.

Audio Cassettes

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions54076

Part Of: Peter Spear fonds

Scope & Content: S56 contains 34 audio cassettes: S56/1 - "Everest 81 Edmund Hillary Talk at Hillary Dinner/Calgary (Amatt)" S56/2 - "A - Blank, B - Oct 15/81 Caneverex - Canadians reach summits of Mutzicata" S56/3 - "A - Everest A/V soundtrack - Earl Pennington - Part 1 Shaw, Part 2 Epilogue, Bill March July 198…

Date Range: 1981 - 1986

Reference Code: S56

Description Level: 3 / Series

GMD: Sound recording; Cassette

Part Of: Peter Spear fonds

Description Level: 3 / Series

Fonds Number: M562 / V787 / S56

Series: S56

Sous-Fonds: S56

Accession Number: 2017.8655

Reference Code: S56

GMD: Sound recording; Cassette

Date Range: 1981 - 1986

Physical Description: 34 audio cassettes

History / Biographical: Peter Spear (April 1, 1940 - ) was a teacher, administrator, mountain ski patroller at the Lake Louise Ski Area, member of the Canadian Ski Patrol System, and base camp manager for the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition based out of Calgary, Alberta.

Scope & Content: S56 contains 34 audio cassettes:; S56/1 - "Everest 81 Edmund Hillary Talk at Hillary Dinner/Calgary (Amatt)"; S56/2 - "A - Blank, B - Oct 15/81 Caneverex - Canadians reach summits of Mutzicata"; S56/3 - "A - Everest A/V soundtrack - Earl Pennington - Part 1 Shaw, Part 2 Epilogue, Bill March July 1982, B - Blank"; S56/4 - "A - Aug 6 - Sherpas and Sherpani's singing in Chang house near Namche, Aug 6 Thangboche monastary ceremony for our expedition, B - Aug 9 Thangboche monastary monk apprentices reciting verse (8-10 years old), Aug 13 Lobuche - Sherpa Sing Song"; S56/5 - "A - Mr. Sharma's Office - Sept 7/82, Sept 14 - Elzinga, B - Blank"; S56/6 - "A - Cross Canada Check Up - September 19, 1982, B - Blank"; S56/7 - "A - Cross Canada Check Up - September 19, 1982, B - Cross Canada Check Up - September 19, 1982 G.S. tape Sept 28/82 to C.H."; S56/8 - "A - Oct 4 - Base Camp = K, B - Oct 5/82 Base Camp -> K radio #1"; S56/9 - "A - Oct 5/82 - Base -> K radio #2, B - Oct 5/82 - #3"; S56/10 - "A - Oct 7/82 - Kathmandu, B - Oct 7/82 - during live broadcast"; S56/11 - "A - Oct 8/82 - Patterson stay from Base of summit, B - Blank"; S56/12 - "Oct 10/82 - Jorsalle to Namche - March, Amatt, Read, Burgess, Smith, Sherpas - taped by Andy Kuzmicki, Bill March, Ron Diamond, B - Oct 10/82 - Jorsalle to Namche - Gallagher, Laurie Skreslet - Transcription of Pat Morrow; S56/13 - "CFCF 60 - Radio Montreal - Mount Everest Aircheck Fri Oct 15/82"; S56/14 - "Air Canada - A Conversation with Pierre Leanniot May 1984"; S56/15 - "Everest! A Sound History 1922 - 1983"; S56/16 - "1. Steve Bezruchka - interview with Brot Coburn re: Hydro project Aug 2/82, 2. Steve Bezruchka - interview with Guy Posson re: affects of HA on child development - Aug 14/82"; S56/17 - "1. Steve Bezruchka (cont.) interview with Guy Posson, 2. Blank"; S56/18 - "1. John Amatt Diary #1 (walk in), 2. John Amatt Diary #2 (walk in)"; S56/19 - "1. John Amatt Diary - Aug 8 - Kunde #3, 2. John Amatt Diary Aug 8 - Kunde #4"; S56/20 - "1. John Amatt Diary - Aug 9/82 - Thyangboche #5 - ceremony music, 2. John Amatt Diary Aug 9/82 - meeting etc. #6"; S56/21 - "1. John Amatt Diary #7 - interviews with Head Lama at Thyangboche - Aug 10/82, 2. John Amatt Diary #8 - comments recorded on trail - Pheriche - Aug 10/82"; S56/22 - "1. John Amatt #9 - team mtg. at Pheriche - Aug 11/82, 2. John Amatt #10 - team mtg. at Pheriche - Aug 11/82"; S56/23 - "1. John Amatt #11 - interview with Bill March, Rovers - report from [?] - Aug 13/82, 2. John Amatt #12 - blank"; S56/24 - "1. John Amatt #13 - Aug 15/16/17 - Tim Lloyd at [?] - Sherpas singing, Bill and Lloyd at Ice Fall, Al Burgess, 2. John Amatt #14 - Aug 18 at Base - personal, Ice Fall Radio Comm, March and team meeting"; S56/25 - "1. John Amatt #15 - Progress Report - Aug 25/82, 2. John Amatt #16 - Aug 24/82 - [?] of W. Cwm conversation"; S56/26 - "1. John Amatt #17 - Aug 19 - Radio contact from Base -> Ice Fall - exploring route, 2. #18 - Blank"; S56/27 - "1. John Amatt #19 - Aug 24 - Dave Jones on health, team meeting at base, 2. John Amatt #20 - Aug 24 - team meeting (cont.), oxygen seminar"; S56/28 - "1. John Amatt #21 - Aug 27, organization plan, Sept 6/82, 2. John Amatt #22 - August 28 - radio contact"; S56/29 to S56/34 - blank tapes