topic:"climbing" found 3 records - Research Collections - Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

Abstract: Hangdog Days vividly chronicles the era when rock climbing exploded in popularity, attracting a new generation of talented climbers eager to reach new heights via harder routes and faster ascents. This contentious, often entertaining period gave rise to sport climbing, climbing gyms, and competitive climbing--indelibly transforming the sport. Jeff Smoot was one of those brash young climbers, and here he traces the development of traditional climbing "rules," enforced first through peer pressure, then later through intimidation and sabotage. In the late '70s, several climbers began introducing new tactics including "hangdogging," hanging on gear to practice moves, that the old guard considered cheating. As more climbers broke ranks with traditional style, the new gymnastic approach pushed the limits of climbing from 5.12 to 5.13. When French climber Jean-Baptiste Tribout ascended To Bolt or Not to Be, 5.14a, at Smith Rock in 1986, he cracked a barrier many people had considered impenetrable. In his lively, fast-paced history enriched with insightful firsthand experience, Smoot focuses on the climbing achievements of three of the era's superstars: John Bachar, Todd Skinner, and Alan Watts, while not neglecting the likes of Ray Jardine, Lynn Hill, Mark Hudon, Tony Yaniro, and Peter Croft. He deftly brings to life the characters and events of this raucous, revolutionary time in rock climbing, exploring, as he says, "what happened and why it mattered, not only to me but to the people involved and those who have followed" (from Mountaineers Books website)

Contents: Part One. The hangdog days -- Part Two. If not now, when? -- Part Three. The renegade -- Part Four. The godforsaken rock -- Part Five. That accursed crack -- Part Six. Churning in the wake.

Notes: Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019 finalist for Mountain Literature

ISBN: 9781680512328

Accession Number: AC639

Call Number: G513 H35 S66

Collection: Alpine Club of Canada Library

URL Notes: Summary on Mountaineers Books website

Websites

https://www.mountaineers.org/books/books/hangdog-days-conflict-change-and-the-race-for-5.14

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"Nowt but a Fleein' Thing" : a history of climbing on Scafell

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19922

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Published Date: 2016

Author: Phizacklea, Al; Cocker, Mike

Publisher: Lancashire, England : The Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the English Lake District Limited

Call Number: DA P45 N69

1 website

Author: Phizacklea, Al; Cocker, Mike

Responsibility: Al Phizacklea and Mike Cocker

Publisher: Lancashire, England : The Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the English Lake District Limited

Published Date: 2016

Physical Description: 398 p. : illus. (colour)

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Geology; Maps; Clubs; History; Rock climbing

Abstract: A magnificently illustrated volume of immense depth (not to mention size!) detailing the history of climbing on the Scafell crags from the earliest exploration to the present day. In 1874 George Seatree and Stanley Martin made the first ascent of North Climb, which was the first time the main face of Scafell had been ascended outside of the obvious gully lines. It was the start of great things on the crags of Scafell. Upon hearing their report of this new route, Will Ritson, landlord of the Huntsman’s Inn, looked at them incredulously, and declared in his usual broad Cumbrian dialect, "Nowt but a fleein’ thing could git up’t crags on’t Wasdale Head side". This book covers the full 200 year history of climbing on the crags of Scafell in both summer and winter conditions, in an extensive and comprehensive manner. Every route on the crag has been noted with the significant ascents being described in detail, and the entire book has been comprehensively illustrated by photographs from archive and newly commissioned work. A significant proportion of the source material has come from recordings made of the pioneers of these climbs that has never been published before. There is also an intricate explanation of the geological features which go to make up these crags as well as new maps and crag diagrams together with notes on conditions, biographies of past climbers and a comprehensive first ascent list that combines both summer and winter climbing for the first time. This book has been produced by members of the Fell and Rock Climbing Club and it is one of the most detailed compilations of rock climbing history to a single mountain crag in Britain. The Fell & Rock Climbing Club is the premier rock climbing and mountaineering club in the English Lake District. The Club was founded in 1906-07 and has been publishing a definitive series of climbing guidebooks to the Lakes since 1922. (from https://www.needlesports.com/49951/products/nowt-but-a-fleein-thing--a-history-of-climbing-on-scafell.aspx)

Contents: Introduction; Early years 1802 - 1914; Middle years 1915 - 1973; Recent years 1974 - 2015; Geology; Crag diagrams; First ascents; Biographies; Accidents; Acknowledgements

ISBN: 9780850280593

Accession Number: AC635

Call Number: DA P45 N69

Collection: Alpine Club of Canada Library

URL Notes: Publisher's website

Websites

https://www.frcc.co.uk/

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Paul Preuss, lord of the abyss : life and death at the birth of free-climbing

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25054

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Published Date: 2019

Author: Smart, David

Publisher: Toronto : Rocky Mountain Books

Call Number: G513 P38 S63

1 website

Author: Smart, David

Publisher: Toronto : Rocky Mountain Books

Published Date: 2019

Physical Description: 248 pages : illus.

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Rock climbing; History; Biography

Abstract: In the months before his death in 1913, from falling more than 300 metres during an attempt to make the first free solo ascent of the North Ridge of the Mandlkogel, Paul Preuss’s public presentations on his climbing adventures filled concert halls in Austria, Italy, and Germany. George Mallory, the famed English mountaineer who died on Mount Everest in 1924, said “no one will ever equal Preuss.“ Reinhold Messner, the first climber to ascend all fourteen 8000 metre peaks, was so impressed by the young Austrian’s achievements that he built a mountaineering museum around Preuss’s piton hammer, wrote two books (in German) about him and instituted a foundation in Preuss’s name. Alex Honnold, the first and only person to free solo El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, has thought about Preuss’ untimely and surprising death and imagined it to have likely been “the worst four seconds” of Preuss’ life. Although he died at only 27 years old, modern climbing may never have developed the ethical, existential core that it has today if not for Preuss’s bold style. Even the most trenchant traditionalists remain unsure about whether to add him to their pantheon or dismiss him as at worst a lunatic or at best an indelicate subject better left ignored. Smart’s biography is the first English language volume to be published and is certain to bring the remarkable story of Paul Preuss to a whole new generation of climbers. (from Rocky Mountain Books website)

Contents: Introduction : Paul Preuss; The boy who loved flowers and mountains; The student mountaineer : Vienna, 1907-1910; Schneid : Planspitze, Matterhorn, 1908; Jesus of the Dorotheergasse, 1909; Dolomites : the Devil's Lair, Summer 1910; In Munich, the city of climbers; Allein : five days that changed climbing, summer 1911; A crazy notion : the great dispute, 1911-12; Doctor Preuss presents; Life as a trifle : the Kaisergebirge, Northern Limestone and the Western Alps, 1912-13; Valhalla : Mandlkogel North Face, October 1913; The sleeper of Altaussee; Acknowledgements; Selected bibliography; Notes; Index

Notes: Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019 shortlist for Mountain Literature

ISBN: 9781771603232

Accession Number: AC639

Call Number: G513 P38 S63

Collection: Alpine Club of Canada Library

URL Notes: Summary on Rocky Mountain Books website

Websites

https://rmbooks.com/book/paul-preuss-lord-of-the-abyss/

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