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Alpine rising : Sherpas, Baltis, and the triumph of local climbers in the great ranges
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue26251
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2024
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- Seattle, WA : Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- 01.1 M14a
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- Seattle, WA : Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2024
- Physical Description
- 269 pages
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Mountains
- Climbing
- Himalaya Mountains
- Sherpa
- Sherpa-history
- Nepal
- Abstract
- The story of the often unheralded and unrecognized stars of climbing in the Himalaya and the Karakoram: the local inhabitants of the mountainous regions of Pakistan, Tibet, India, and Nepal who have been support staff--porters, cooks, sirdars, and unacknowledged guides--for Western climbers for generations. ALPINE RISING focuses on the experiences and accomplishments of these Sherpas, Baltis, Ladakhis, Hunzas, Astoris, Magars, Bhotias, Rais, and Gurangs. Highlighted climbers range from Raghubir Thapa and Goman Singh who climbed with Albert Mummery in 1895, Ang Tharkay who climbed with Eric Shipton and Maurice Herzog, and Tenzing Norgay who, along with Edmund Hillary, was the first to summit Everest, to today's superstars, Ali Sadpara, Mingma G, Kama Rita, and others -- Provided by publisher.
- ISBN
- 9781680515787
- Accession Number
- P2024.02
- Call Number
- 01.1 M14a
- Collection
- Archives Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
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Alpine warriors
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue15221
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2015
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- [Surrey, British Columbia] : Rocky Mountain Books
- Call Number
- 01.2 M14a
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- [Surrey, British Columbia] : Rocky Mountain Books
- Published Date
- 2015
- Physical Description
- 335 pages : illustrations (chiefly colour), maps, portraits
- Subjects
- Slovenia
- Mountaineering
- Notes
- Winner of Banff Mountain Book Competition Mountaineering History Award in 2015.
- ISBN
- 9781771601092
- Accession Number
- 2016.8602
- Call Number
- 01.2 M14a
- Collection
- Archives Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
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Alpine warriors
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue14794
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2015
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- [Surrey, British Columbia] : Rocky Mountain Books
- Call Number
- G512 M16
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- [Surrey, British Columbia] : Rocky Mountain Books
- Published Date
- 2015
- Physical Description
- 335 pages : illustrations (chiefly colour), maps, portraits
- Subjects
- Slovenia
- Mountaineering
- Notes
- Winner of Banff Mountain Book Competition Mountaineering History Award in 2015.
- ISBN
- 9781771601092
- Accession Number
- AC609
- AC616 copy 2 transferred to ARC Library
- Call Number
- G512 M16
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
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Art of freedom : the life and climbs of Voytek Kurtyka
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19901
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
- Call Number
- G512 M16 A78
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Responsibility
- Bernadette McDonald
- Publisher
- Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 326 pages : photographs ; 24 cm
- Abstract
- "A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.
- Contents
- Introduction
- Rock Animal
- Alpinist in Training
- Hindu Kush - Unleashed
- Troll Wall
- Bandaka - The Mordor Beauty
- Hungry for Hunger
- Dancing in the Moment
- Enfant Terrible
- Line against the Sky
- The Shining Wall
- Fork in the Road
- Trango Tower
- Night Naked
- Dance of the Underclings
- Chinese Maharaja
- Metaphysical Think Tank
- The Crux
- Chronology of Selected Climbs
- Acknowledgements
- Notes
- Sources
- Index
- ISBN
- 9781771602129
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- G512 M16 A78
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
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Art of Freedom : the life and climbs of Voytek Kurtyka
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue2157
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
- Call Number
- 01 Mc14a
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Responsibility
- Bernadette McDonald
- Publisher
- Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 326 pages : photographs ; 24 cm
- Abstract
- "A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.
- Contents
- Introduction
- Rock Animal
- Alpinist in Training
- Hindu Kush - Unleashed
- Troll Wall
- Bandaka - The Mordor Beauty
- Hungry for Hunger
- Dancing in the Moment
- Enfant Terrible
- Line against the Sky
- The Shining Wall
- Fork in the Road
- Trango Tower
- Night Naked
- Dance of the Underclings
- Chinese Maharaja
- Metaphysical Think Tank
- The Crux
- Chronology of Selected Climbs
- Acknowledgements
- Notes
- Sources
- Index
- ISBN
- 9781771602129
- Accession Number
- 2019.11
- Call Number
- 01 Mc14a
- Collection
- Archives Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
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Audio Cassettes
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions54076
- Part Of
- Peter Spear fonds
- Scope & Content
- S56 contains 34 audio cassettes: S56/1 - "Everest 81 Edmund Hillary Talk at Hillary Dinner/Calgary (Amatt)" S56/2 - "A - Blank, B - Oct 15/81 Caneverex - Canadians reach summits of Mutzicata" S56/3 - "A - Everest A/V soundtrack - Earl Pennington - Part 1 Shaw, Part 2 Epilogue, Bill March July 198…
- Date Range
- 1981 - 1986
- Reference Code
- S56
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- GMD
- Sound recording
- Cassette
- Part Of
- Peter Spear fonds
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- Fonds Number
- M562 / V787 / S56
- Series
- S56
- Sous-Fonds
- S56
- Accession Number
- 2017.8655
- Reference Code
- S56
- Date Range
- 1981 - 1986
- Physical Description
- 34 audio cassettes
- History / Biographical
- Peter Spear (April 1, 1940 - ) was a teacher, administrator, mountain ski patroller at the Lake Louise Ski Area, member of the Canadian Ski Patrol System, and base camp manager for the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition based out of Calgary, Alberta.
- Scope & Content
- S56 contains 34 audio cassettes:
- S56/1 - "Everest 81 Edmund Hillary Talk at Hillary Dinner/Calgary (Amatt)"
- S56/2 - "A - Blank, B - Oct 15/81 Caneverex - Canadians reach summits of Mutzicata"
- S56/3 - "A - Everest A/V soundtrack - Earl Pennington - Part 1 Shaw, Part 2 Epilogue, Bill March July 1982, B - Blank"
- S56/4 - "A - Aug 6 - Sherpas and Sherpani's singing in Chang house near Namche, Aug 6 Thangboche monastary ceremony for our expedition, B - Aug 9 Thangboche monastary monk apprentices reciting verse (8-10 years old), Aug 13 Lobuche - Sherpa Sing Song"
- S56/5 - "A - Mr. Sharma's Office - Sept 7/82, Sept 14 - Elzinga, B - Blank"
- S56/6 - "A - Cross Canada Check Up - September 19, 1982, B - Blank"
- S56/7 - "A - Cross Canada Check Up - September 19, 1982, B - Cross Canada Check Up - September 19, 1982 G.S. tape Sept 28/82 to C.H."
- S56/8 - "A - Oct 4 - Base Camp = K, B - Oct 5/82 Base Camp -> K radio #1"
- S56/9 - "A - Oct 5/82 - Base -> K radio #2, B - Oct 5/82 - #3"
- S56/10 - "A - Oct 7/82 - Kathmandu, B - Oct 7/82 - during live broadcast"
- S56/11 - "A - Oct 8/82 - Patterson stay from Base of summit, B - Blank"
- S56/12 - "Oct 10/82 - Jorsalle to Namche - March, Amatt, Read, Burgess, Smith, Sherpas - taped by Andy Kuzmicki, Bill March, Ron Diamond, B - Oct 10/82 - Jorsalle to Namche - Gallagher, Laurie Skreslet - Transcription of Pat Morrow
- S56/13 - "CFCF 60 - Radio Montreal - Mount Everest Aircheck Fri Oct 15/82"
- S56/14 - "Air Canada - A Conversation with Pierre Leanniot May 1984"
- S56/15 - "Everest! A Sound History 1922 - 1983"
- S56/16 - "1. Steve Bezruchka - interview with Brot Coburn re: Hydro project Aug 2/82, 2. Steve Bezruchka - interview with Guy Posson re: affects of HA on child development - Aug 14/82"
- S56/17 - "1. Steve Bezruchka (cont.) interview with Guy Posson, 2. Blank"
- S56/18 - "1. John Amatt Diary #1 (walk in), 2. John Amatt Diary #2 (walk in)"
- S56/19 - "1. John Amatt Diary - Aug 8 - Kunde #3, 2. John Amatt Diary Aug 8 - Kunde #4"
- S56/20 - "1. John Amatt Diary - Aug 9/82 - Thyangboche #5 - ceremony music, 2. John Amatt Diary Aug 9/82 - meeting etc. #6"
- S56/21 - "1. John Amatt Diary #7 - interviews with Head Lama at Thyangboche - Aug 10/82, 2. John Amatt Diary #8 - comments recorded on trail - Pheriche - Aug 10/82"
- S56/22 - "1. John Amatt #9 - team mtg. at Pheriche - Aug 11/82, 2. John Amatt #10 - team mtg. at Pheriche - Aug 11/82"
- S56/23 - "1. John Amatt #11 - interview with Bill March, Rovers - report from [?] - Aug 13/82, 2. John Amatt #12 - blank"
- S56/24 - "1. John Amatt #13 - Aug 15/16/17 - Tim Lloyd at [?] - Sherpas singing, Bill and Lloyd at Ice Fall, Al Burgess, 2. John Amatt #14 - Aug 18 at Base - personal, Ice Fall Radio Comm, March and team meeting"
- S56/25 - "1. John Amatt #15 - Progress Report - Aug 25/82, 2. John Amatt #16 - Aug 24/82 - [?] of W. Cwm conversation"
- S56/26 - "1. John Amatt #17 - Aug 19 - Radio contact from Base -> Ice Fall - exploring route, 2. #18 - Blank"
- S56/27 - "1. John Amatt #19 - Aug 24 - Dave Jones on health, team meeting at base, 2. John Amatt #20 - Aug 24 - team meeting (cont.), oxygen seminar"
- S56/28 - "1. John Amatt #21 - Aug 27, organization plan, Sept 6/82, 2. John Amatt #22 - August 28 - radio contact"
- S56/29 to S56/34 - blank tapes
- Notes
- Titles taken from text written on cassette tapes.
- Name Access
- Spear, Peter
- Everest '82
- Subject Access
- Camps
- Canada
- Climbing
- Communications
- Conferences and conventions
- Education
- Winter Sports
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Organizations
- Public events
- Sports
- Transportation
- Travel
- Geographic Access
- Alberta
- England
- Thailand
- Nepal
- Bangkok
- Kathmandu
- Language
- English
- Related Material
- John Amatt fonds
- Creator
- Peter Spear
- Title Source
- Title based on contents
- Processing Status
- Processed
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
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Brotherhood of the rope : the biography of Charles Houston
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue15202
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2007
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Publisher
- Seattle : The Mountaineers Books
- Call Number
- 01 H81b M14
- Author
- McDonald, Bernadette
- Responsibility
- Bernadette McDonald
- Publisher
- Seattle : The Mountaineers Books
- Published Date
- 2007
- Physical Description
- 250p. : ill. , map + 1 DVD
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Medicine
- ISBN
- 978-1-59485-067-7
- Accession Number
- 2016.8602
- Call Number
- 01 H81b M14
- Collection
- Archives Library
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
Correspondence
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions54065
- Part Of
- Peter Spear fonds
- Scope & Content
- M562/C - Correspondence contains twenty-six sub-series: 1 - School correspondence "A" 2 - School correspondence "B" 3 - School correspondence "C" 4 - School correspondence "D" 5 - School correspondence "F" 6 - School correspondence "G" 7 - School correspondence "J" 8 - School correspondenc…
- Date Range
- 1981 - 1986
- Reference Code
- M562 / C
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- GMD
- Textual, private record
- Part Of
- Peter Spear fonds
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- Fonds Number
- M562 / V787 / S56
- Series
- M562 / C
- Sous-Fonds
- M562 / V787 / S56
- Accession Number
- 2017.8655
- Reference Code
- M562 / C
- Date Range
- 1981 - 1986
- Physical Description
- 24 cm of textual records
- History / Biographical
- Peter Spear (April 1, 1940 - ) was a teacher, administrator, mountain ski patroller at the Lake Louise Ski Area, member of the Canadian Ski Patrol System, and base camp manager for the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition based out of Calgary, Alberta.
- Scope & Content
- M562/C - Correspondence contains twenty-six sub-series:
- 1 - School correspondence "A"
- 2 - School correspondence "B"
- 3 - School correspondence "C"
- 4 - School correspondence "D"
- 5 - School correspondence "F"
- 6 - School correspondence "G"
- 7 - School correspondence "J"
- 8 - School correspondence "K"
- 9 - School correspondence "L"
- 10 - School correspondence "Maurice Cody School"
- 11 - School correspondence "M"
- 12 - School correspondence "O"
- 13 - School correspondence "P"
- 14 - School correspondence "S"
- 15 - School correspondence "W"
- 16 - School correspondence "Unknown schools"
- 17 - Addresses and contacts
- 18 - Invitations
- 19 - Expedition Correspondence 1980
- 20 - Expedition Correspondence 1981
- 21 - Expedition Correspondence 1982
- 22 - Expedition Correspondence 1983
- 23 - Expedition Correspondence 1984
- 24 - Expedition Correspondence 1985
- 25 - Expedition Correspondence 1986
- 26 - Expedition Correspondence undated
- Notes
- Correspondence from schools are arranged alphabetically by the name of the school
- Expedition correspondence is arranged chronologically
- Name Access
- Spear, Peter
- Everest '82
- Subject Access
- Calgary
- Camps
- Canada
- Climbing
- Clothing and dress
- Communications
- Education
- Winter Sports
- India
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Organizations
- Sports
- Travel
- Geographic Access
- Alberta
- England
- Thailand
- Nepal
- Bangkok
- Kathmandu
- Access Restrictions
- Some personal mailing addresses in M562/C - Correspondence
- Language
- English
- Location (Copy)
- Copy of Peter Spear's diary in case file
- Related Material
- John Amatt fonds
- Creator
- Peter Spear
- Title Source
- Title based on contents
- Processing Status
- Processed
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
Expedition Planning and Logistics
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions54063
- Part Of
- Peter Spear fonds
- Scope & Content
- M562/A - Expedition Planning and Logistics contains twelve sub-series: 1 - Suppliers 2 - Schedules and itineraries 3 - Communications 4 - Permits 5 - Camp specific supplies and schedules 6 - Food 7 - Equipment 8 - Personnel 9 - Invoices 10 - Full information packet for Bill March and Jim…
- Date Range
- 1981 - 1986
- Reference Code
- M562 / A
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- GMD
- Textual record
- Diary
- Organization record
- Private record
- Part Of
- Peter Spear fonds
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- Fonds Number
- M562 / V787 / S56
- Series
- M562 / A
- Sous-Fonds
- M562
- Accession Number
- 2017.8655
- Reference Code
- M562 / A
- Date Range
- 1981 - 1986
- Physical Description
- 24 cm of textual records
- History / Biographical
- Peter Spear (April 1, 1940 - ) was a teacher, administrator, mountain ski patroller at the Lake Louise Ski Area, member of the Canadian Ski Patrol System, and base camp manager for the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition based out of Calgary, Alberta.
- Scope & Content
- M562/A - Expedition Planning and Logistics contains twelve sub-series:
- 1 - Suppliers
- 2 - Schedules and itineraries
- 3 - Communications
- 4 - Permits
- 5 - Camp specific supplies and schedules
- 6 - Food
- 7 - Equipment
- 8 - Personnel
- 9 - Invoices
- 10 - Full information packet for Bill March and Jim Elzinga
- 11 - Miscellaneous collected materials
- 12- Peter Spear diary
- Name Access
- Spear, Peter
- Everest '82
- Subject Access
- Avalanches
- Calgary
- Camps
- Canada
- Climbing
- Clothing and dress
- Columbia Icefield
- Communications
- Daily routines
- Education
- Winter Sports
- Helicopters
- India
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Organizations
- Shopping lists
- Sports
- Transportation
- Travel
- Geographic Access
- Alberta
- England
- Thailand
- Nepal
- Bangkok
- Kathmandu
- Language
- English
- Location (Copy)
- Copy of Peter Spear's diary in case file
- Related Material
- John Amatt fonds
- Creator
- Peter Spear
- Title Source
- Title based on contents
- Processing Status
- Processed
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.
- Part Of
- Peter Spear fonds
- Scope & Content
- M562/B - General contains fourteen sub-series: 1 - Mount Everest Society papers 2 - Well wishes 3 - Public appearances 4 - Leave of absence 5 - Curriculum 6 - School events 7 - Pamphlets 8 - Everest '82 blank stationary 9 - Product manuals 10 - Advertising and initiatives 11 - Maps 12 …
- Date Range
- 1981 - 1986
- Reference Code
- M562 / B
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- GMD
- Textual, club and society record
- Textual, private record
- Part Of
- Peter Spear fonds
- Description Level
- 3 / Series
- Fonds Number
- M562 / V787 / S56
- Series
- M562 / B
- Sous-Fonds
- M562
- Accession Number
- 2017.8655
- Reference Code
- M562 / B
- Date Range
- 1981 - 1986
- Physical Description
- 24 cm of textual records
- History / Biographical
- Peter Spear (April 1, 1940 - ) was a teacher, administrator, mountain ski patroller at the Lake Louise Ski Area, member of the Canadian Ski Patrol System, and base camp manager for the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition based out of Calgary, Alberta.
- Scope & Content
- M562/B - General contains fourteen sub-series:
- 1 - Mount Everest Society papers
- 2 - Well wishes
- 3 - Public appearances
- 4 - Leave of absence
- 5 - Curriculum
- 6 - School events
- 7 - Pamphlets
- 8 - Everest '82 blank stationary
- 9 - Product manuals
- 10 - Advertising and initiatives
- 11 - Maps
- 12 - News releases
- 13 - Radio - Caneverex
- 14 - Everest '82 communications and partners
- Name Access
- Spear, Peter
- Everest '82
- Subject Access
- Calgary
- Camps
- Canada
- Climbing
- Communications
- Education
- Winter Sports
- India
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Organizations
- Sports
- Transportation
- Travel
- Geographic Access
- Alberta
- England
- Thailand
- Nepal
- Bangkok
- Kathmandu
- Language
- English
- Location (Copy)
- Copy of Peter Spear's diary in case file
- Related Material
- John Amatt fonds
- Creator
- Peter Spear
- Title Source
- Title based on contents
- Processing Status
- Processed
This material is presented as originally created; it may contain outdated cultural descriptions and
potentially offensive content.
Read more.