Pt. 1. Conrad Kain -- 1. The Nunataks -- 2. A veritable Bugaboo -- 3. The outfitter -- Pt. II. The hard men -- 4. A Bugaboo no longer -- 5. The last Bugaboo -- 6. Fred Beckey arrives -- 7. High angle climbing -- 8. An exceptional summer, 1959 -- 9. Cooper's east faces -- 10. Patagonia -- 11. Beckey returns -- 12. Traverse -- Pt. III. New standards -- 13. Old and new faces -- 14. Pushing the limits -- 15. What's next? -- Winter ascent: south Howser Tower -- 17. Granite.
Notes
Includes photographs by Glen Boles, Ed Cooper, Scott Flavelle, J.F. Garden, Byron Harmon (Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies Archives & Library), Daryl Hatten, Roger W. Laurilla, James B. Maitre, Rob Rohn, John Simpson, Uldis Veideman, Jim Weston
Signed by author - addressed to Margaret and Hans Gmoser
A guide for mountaineers for the Canadian Rocky Mountains arranged geographically including map references.
Contents
Introduction
Preface
Part One - International Boundary to Kicking Horse Pass
Part Two - Kicking Horse Pass to Yellowhead Pass
Yellowhead Pass to Jarvis Pass
List of authorites
Principle maps of the Canadian Rocky Mountains
Huts of the Alpine Club of Canada
Annual Camps of the Alpine Club of Canada
Notes
First ed., by Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington, published in 1921.
Accession Number
8062
Call Number
01.4 C61 1953
Collection
Archives Library
URL Notes
Publication information on the American Alpine Club website
Pertains to the personal mountaineering experience of author, Frank S. Smythe. As a prominent English author, photographer, botanist and mountaineer, Smythe invites the reader to delve into a greater understanding of what it means to climb in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. He tells of his successes, failures and lessons learned while scaling some of the most ambitious mountains in the Canadian Rockies. Some of the mountains discussed include, but are not limited to the following, Mount Alberta, Mount Assiniboine, Mount Robson, Mount Glendower and Mount Colin.
Contents
Part I : The Canadian Rockies
I. The Canadian Rocky Mountains (pg. 3)
II. Training the Lovat Scouts (pg. 19)
III. Elysium Pass (pg. 37)
IV. Mountaineering from Lake O'Hara (pg. 47)
V. Mount Assiniboine (pg. 54)
VI. Mount Alberta (pg. 67)
VII. The Beaver (pg. 86)
VIII. An attempt to climb Mount Brussels (pg. 96)
IX. The first ascent of Mount Bridgland (pg. 108)
X. Mount Robson (pg. 121)
XI. Failure and success on Mount Colin (pg. 142)
XII. Storm on Mount Louis (pg. 162)
Part II : Unmapped and unexplored. An expedition to the LLoyd George Mountains of north-east British Columbia
XIII. The Lloyd George Mountains (pg. 175)
XIV. The flight to Haworth Lake (pg. 186)
XV. The base-camp (pg. 196)
XVI. Reconnaissance flight (pg. 206)
XVII. The ascent of Mount Glendower (pg. 213)
XVIII. The ascent of Mount Lloyd George (pg. 221)
XIX. Call it a day (pg. 227)
XX. High-level traverse (pg. 241)
XXI. Lightning (pg. 251)
Index (pg. 255)
Notes
All photographs used in the publication were taken by the author