"A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.
"A profound and moving biography of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complicated and reclusive mountaineers. Voytek Kurtyka remains one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of Himalayan climbing. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the "night naked" speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the "climb of the century," his route on G IV, as of 2016, has yet to be repeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan climber Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolet d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Academy Award of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he continues to decline countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but has agreed to co-operate with internationally renowned and award winning Canadian author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography."-- Provided by publisher.
Series consists of textual records pertaining to the creation and publication of the Book of Mortimer, including manuscript drafts, correspondence and notes.
No one has volunteered more time and energy to Canada’s mountain community and to the Alpine Club of Canada than Mike and Heather Mortimer. Beginning their careers as newsletter editors of the Calgary Section of the ACC, Mike and Heather eventually became president and first lady of the UIAA (International Union of Alpine Associations).
Along the way they have organized Mountain Safety Conferences, built the Bow Hut on the Wapta Icefield and organized the Alpine Club of Canada’s Centennial Celebration. This book tells their story.
Scope & Content
Series consists of textual records pertaining to the creation and publication of the Book of Mortimer, including manuscript drafts, correspondence and notes.
Notes
Series consists of four sub-series:
M57 / IX / A: Manuscript Drafts
M57 / IX / B: Correspondence
M57 / IX / C: Interview Notes
M57 / IX / D: Research and Speech Notes
Series consists of textual records, including notes, manuscripts and other related materials, pertaining to the creation of the book "Deep Powder and Steep Rock".
Hans Gmoser played a major role in creating Canada’s vibrant mountain community. Although known internationally as the father of heli-skiing, he was much more than that: a talented rock climber, tireless expedition leader, a mountain guide, film maker and organizer.
Deep Powder and Steep Rock presents an intimate portrait of this charismatic man. Much of the story is told in Gmoser’s own words, gleaned from his diaries, expedition journals, film commentaries and personal correspondence. It is a unique tale of adventure, hard work, perseverance and ultimate success.
Scope & Content
Series consists of textual records, including notes, manuscripts and other related materials, pertaining to the creation of the book "Deep Powder and Steep Rock".
Notes
Series consists of five sub-series:
M57 / V / A: Research files
M57 / V / B: Maps
M57 / V / C: Interviews
M57 / V / D: Photograph notes
M57 / V / E: Draft Manuscript