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Alpenglow : the finest climbs on the 4000m peaks of the Alps

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25035
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2019
Author
Tibbetts, Ben
Publisher
[Hereford] : Ben Tibbetts
Call Number
DQ841 A46 T53 O.S.
  1 website  
Author
Tibbetts, Ben
Publisher
[Hereford] : Ben Tibbetts
Published Date
2019
Physical Description
320 pages : illustrations (color)
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Photography
Alps
Mountaineering
Switzerland
Italy
France
Art
Abstract
Is an inspiring book of photographs, stories and drawings describing The Finest Climbs on the 4000m Peaks of the Alps (from Ben Tibbetts website)
Contents
Introduction
Practicalities
Endnotes
Bernina Alps
Bernese Alps
Pennine Alps
Mont Blanc Massif
Gran Paradiso
Ecrins
Notes
Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival finalist for Mountain Image
Photographs, drawings and text by Ben Tibbetts
ISBN
9781916123106
Accession Number
AC639
Call Number
DQ841 A46 T53 O.S.
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
Author's website
Websites
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As above, so below : a climbing story

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25049
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2018
Author
Kalman, Christ (author)
Muderlak, Craig (illustrator)
Publisher
Herndon, VA : Mascot Books
Call Number
P A83 K35
  1 website  
Author
Kalman, Christ (author)
Muderlak, Craig (illustrator)
Publisher
Herndon, VA : Mascot Books
Published Date
2018
Physical Description
vii, 103 pages : illustrations
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Fiction
Mountaineering
Patagonia
Abstract
As Above, So Below is a 103 page fictional climbing story set in Argentine Patagonia. When something goes wrong high up a mountain, one man is forced to face his inner demons along the way to the summit. This beautiful hardbound book was published in 2018 as a limited edition of 1000 copies. The story was illustrated by the immensely talented Craig Muderlak, and edited and revised at the The Banff Centre’s prestigious Mountain and Wilderness Writing Workshop. As Above, So Below has been described as "Jack London's To Build a Fire for climbing", and reminiscent of James Salter's Solo Faces. In September of 2018, it was nominated for the Mountain Fiction Award at the Banff Mountain Book and Film Festival in Banff, Canada. (from author's website)
Contents
Acknowledgements
Day One
Day Two
Day Three
Notes
Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2018 finalist for Mountain Fiction
ISBN
9781684019694
Accession Number
AC639
Call Number
P A83 K35
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
Summary on author's website
Websites
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At home in nature : a life of unknown mountains and deep wilderness

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25052
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2017
Author
Wood, Robert Julian
Publisher
[Victoria, British Columbia] : Rocky Mountain Books Ltd.
Call Number
G512 A84 W66
  1 website  
Author
Wood, Robert Julian
Publisher
[Victoria, British Columbia] : Rocky Mountain Books Ltd.
Published Date
2017
Physical Description
284 pages, 16 unnumbered pages of plates : illustrations (chiefly color)
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Architecture
Autobiography
Alberta
British Columbia
Abstract
Rob Wood grew up in a village on the edge of the Yorkshire Moors, where he eventually developed a preoccupation with rock climbing. After studying architecture for five years at the Architectural Association School in London, England, he made his way to Montreal and ended up in Calgary. During his time in Calgary, Rob became a pioneer of ice climbing and posted numerous first ascents in the Rockies during the early 1970’s. Eventually, life in corporate Alberta proved unfulfilling and Rob realized that he needed to find a place where he could reconnect with nature, which brought him to the remote reaches of Canada’s West Coast. Settling on Maurelle Island, he and his wife built an off-the-grid homestead and focussed on alternative communities and developing a small house-design practice specializing in organic and wholesome building techniques. At Home in Nature is a gentle and philosophical memoir that focuses on living a life deeply rooted in the natural world, where citizens are connected to the planet and individuals work together to help, enhance and make the world a better — and sustainable — place. (from Rocky Mountain Books website)
Contents
Acknowledgements
Introduction
Leaving the old country
Allegiance to nature
Settling down
Cosmic shack
Back to the land community
Island schooling
Domestic animals
Wild animals
Fiordland boat
Mystery mountain
Deep wilderness
Cancer
Aorta attack
Outer islands community
Off-grib homestead
Organic house
Heavy weather
Flight of the imagination
Legend of Kayak Bill
Whirlpools in the tide
ISBN
9781771602501
Accession Number
A639
Call Number
G512 A84 W66
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
Summary on Rocky Mountain Books
Websites
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Breaking trail : Chic Scott's story

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20168
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2016
Author
Croston, Joanna
Publisher
Canmore : Alpine Club of Canada
Call Number
G512 S36 B74 Pam copy 2 (reference room)
  1 website  
Author
Croston, Joanna
Responsibility
Joanna Croston
Publisher
Canmore : Alpine Club of Canada
Published Date
2016
Physical Description
40 pages, illustrations [colour]
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Series
Summit Series #22
Subjects
Canada
Mountaineering
Rock climbing
Skiing
Abstract
Chic Scott is a man of unconventional firsts. The first Canadian to summit a Himalayan peak, the first Canadian to guide in the European Alps, and he was part of the first team to climb Mount Assiniboine in winter. He is also a local mentor, historian and ski pioneer who has spent his whole life touching the lives of all those who call the Rockies home. Chic is perhaps known best for the ambitious grand ski traverses he achieved; in essence he has broken the trail for an entire generation of adventure skiers who follow. His writing and books have reached mountain communities further afield, spreading the rich history of Canadian mountaineering to outdoor enthusiasts across Canada and around the globe. This booklet celebrates the life of Chic Scott with his most memorable contributions to mountain life and tales told by his close friends. (from Alpine Club of Canada website)
Contents
A Man of Many Firsts
Early Years
The Grand Ski Traverse
The Alps
Bigger, Higher, Colder
The Stars Align
Love Affari with the Yukon
The Alpine Club of Canada
The Calgary Climbers Festival
Legacy
On the World Stage
Golden Years in Banff
References & Bibliography
Notes
Signed by Chic Scott - addressed to Margaret Gmoser
ISBN
9780920330654
Accession Number
AC637
Call Number
G512 S36 B74 Pam copy 2 (reference room)
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
Link to Alpine Club of Canada's website re: Summit Series
Websites
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Canadian Rockies : they abound in wild animals, glaciers, and luxurious hotels

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue24918
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1947
Publisher
Life
Call Number
02.6 L11c PAM OS
  1 website  
Publisher
Life
Published Date
1947
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Banff National Park
Travel
Tourism
Banff Springs Hotel
Rundle Mount
Athabaska River
Brazeau
Maligne Lake
Bow River
Canadian National Railway
Canadian Pacific Railway
Chateau Lake Louise
Trails
Mountaineering
Columbia Icefield
Abstract
Pertains to the Canadian Rocky Mountains as a tourist destination in 1947 and features main geographical attractions such as the Mount Rundle, Athabaska River, Maligne Lake, Bow River in addition to the Banff Springs Hotel with map of Banff National Park and Jasper National Park.
Notes
In Life, June 9, 1947, pp. 68 - 76
Accession Number
7889
Call Number
02.6 L11c PAM OS
Collection
Archives Library
URL Notes
Specific volume with article can be viewed online via Google Books
Websites
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A Century of American alpinism, 2002

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20146
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2002
Author
Fay, Charles Ernest
Bent, Allen Herbert
Palmer, Howard
Thorington, James Monroe
Kauffman, Andrew John
Putnam, William Lowell
Publisher
Boulder, CO : American Alpine Club,
Call Number
G505 F39 C46
  1 website  
Author
Fay, Charles Ernest
Bent, Allen Herbert
Palmer, Howard
Thorington, James Monroe
Kauffman, Andrew John
Putnam, William Lowell
Responsibility
Charles Earnest Fay, Allen Herbert Bent, Howard Palmer, James Monroe Thorington, Andrew John Kauffman, William Lowell Putnam
Publisher
Boulder, CO : American Alpine Club,
Published Date
2002
Physical Description
ix, 196 pages, xxxii pages of plates : illustrations, portraits
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
American Alpine Club
History
Mountaineering
Clubs
Abstract
Pertains to a century of American alpinism from 1902 to 2002
Contents
Forward
Preface
I Earliest American Mountaineers
II Pacific Crests
III Later and Farther North
IV Tidewater Alaska
V Early Amerian Ascents in the Alps
VI Appalachian Mountain Club Roots
VII The Social Aspect of Alpinism
VIII To the Top of the Continent
IX Other Mountain Clubs of America
X Momentous Events
XI Afield and at War
XII Changing Mores
XIII Moving West
XIV Not All Sweetness and Light
XV The Study of Mountain Elevations
XVI Exclusiveness or Inclusiveness
XVII Changing Faces
Appendices
Index
Accession Number
AC637
Call Number
G505 F39 C46
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
American Alpine Club link to book
Websites
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A century of antics, epics, & escapades : the Varsity Outdoor Club, 1917-2017

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19856
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2017
Author
Varsity Outdoor Club
Publisher
Vancouver : Varsity Outdoor Club, University of British Columbia
Edition
centennial edition
Call Number
01.4 C51a
  1 website  
Author
Varsity Outdoor Club
Edition
centennial edition
Publisher
Vancouver : Varsity Outdoor Club, University of British Columbia
Published Date
2017
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Hiking
Squamish, British Columbia
British Columbia
Mountaineering
Mountain Equipment Co-op
Abstract
Pertains to the history and achievements of the Varsity Outdoor Club over the last 100 years in celebration of the organizations centennial anniversary. Divided by decade, the book offers the reader a comprehensive analysis of the achievements during each time period. From mountaineering to rock climbing, hiking and sailing, the centennial edition of the Varsity Outdoor Club offers the reader a personal experience in understanding mountain life.
Contents
Foreward
A history older than ours
Table of contenets
Timeline
1917 - 1939
1940's
1950's
1960's
Buildering by Ard Ardvin
1970's
Conservation and advocacy in VOC
1980's
Women in the VOC
1990's
Huts
Nerdiness in the VOC
2000's
VOC portrait: Roland Burton
VOC marriage proposals
2010's
Beyond 2017
Acknowledgements
A note on sources
Appendix: executive lists
ISBN
9781775043003
Accession Number
2019.56
Call Number
01.4 C51a
Collection
Archives Library
URL Notes
The attached URL pertains to the Varsity Outdoor Clubs official website
Websites
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A century of antics, epics & escapades : the Varsity Outdoor Club, 1917-2017

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19924
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2017
Author
Varsity Outdoor Club
Publisher
Vancouver, B.C. ; University of British Columbia's Varsity Outdoor Club
Call Number
G505 V37 A58
  1 website  
Author
Varsity Outdoor Club
Responsibility
Varsity Outdoor Club
Publisher
Vancouver, B.C. ; University of British Columbia's Varsity Outdoor Club
Published Date
2017
Physical Description
252 p. : illus. (colour)
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Clubs
British Columbia
History
Conservation
Women
Maps
Abstract
The Varsity Outdoor Club has turned 100. To celebrate the rich history of the clubs wilderness (mis-)adventures we’ve independently published the best of our collective stories from the last century into one beautiful coffee table book. The VOC has been intimately tied with the history of hiking, skiing, mountaineering and exploration of Southwestern British Columbia and beyond. From building a wooden cabin on the untamed wilds of Grouse Mountain (in the 1920s), to the first ski crossing of the now ultra-classic, “Neve Traverse” in Garibaldi Park, to modern adventures pushing how far and how fast we can go. Each chapter explores the decades from 1917 to 2017, combining primary written accounts, stunning photos and oral histories of the members into a larger unfolding narrative of the ever-evolving relationship between adventurers and nature. (from Varsity Outdoor Club website)
Contents
Foreward
A history older than ours
Table of contents
Timeline
1917-1939 - Maps: VOC areas & traverses over time
1940s - Decades of Garibaldi Park
1950s - Decades of Loganeering
1960s - Buildering; decades of socializing
1970s - Conservation and advocacy in the VOC; Decades of transportation
1980s - Women in the VOC; decades of adventure
1900s
Huts
Nerdiness in the VOC; Maps: selection of traverses since 2000s & climbing pilgrimages
2000s
VOC portrait: Roland Burton
VOC marriage proposals
2010s
Beyond 2017
Acknowledgements
A note on sources
Appendix: executive lists
ISBN
9781775043003
Accession Number
AC635
Call Number
G505 V37 A58
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
Varsity Outdoor Club website - publication information
Websites
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A climber’s guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25079
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1953
Author
Thorington, J. Monroe
Publisher
[New York] : The American Alpine Club
Edition
Revised Edition, 5th printing
Call Number
01.4 C61 1953
  1 website  
Author
Thorington, J. Monroe
Responsibility
J. Monroe Thorington
Edition
Revised Edition, 5th printing
Publisher
[New York] : The American Alpine Club
Published Date
1953
Physical Description
xx, 323 pages
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Guide
Guidebook
Guidebooks
Rocky Mountains
Abstract
A guide for mountaineers for the Canadian Rocky Mountains arranged geographically including map references.
Contents
Introduction Preface Part One - International Boundary to Kicking Horse Pass Part Two - Kicking Horse Pass to Yellowhead Pass Yellowhead Pass to Jarvis Pass List of authorites Principle maps of the Canadian Rocky Mountains Huts of the Alpine Club of Canada Annual Camps of the Alpine Club of Canada
Notes
First ed., by Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington, published in 1921.
Accession Number
8062
Call Number
01.4 C61 1953
Collection
Archives Library
URL Notes
Publication information on the American Alpine Club website
Websites
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Les conquerants de l'inutile : des Alpes a l'Annapurna

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19925
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1961
Author
Terray, Lionel
Publisher
France : Gallimard
Edition
1st
Call Number
G512 T47 L47
  1 website  
Author
Terray, Lionel
Responsibility
Lionel Terray
Edition
1st
Publisher
France : Gallimard
Published Date
1961
Physical Description
560 p. ; 88 illus. ; maps
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Terray, Lionel
Biography
Alps
Eiger
Himalaya Mountains
Abstract
"All these faces that appear in close-up in the news or in the press are also men. The name of Lionel Terray, one of the most famous living mountaineers, comes back periodically in conversations, because he participated in a rescue or because he helped to conquer a great world summit like Annapurna or the Makalu. In The Conquerors of the Useless , it is the whole mountain and its secrets that it reveals to us without emphasis and especially without pretension. We see how a little boy can already sense his vocation and soon to live only for the mountain; how this passion led him from the Alps to the Himalayas, from Canada to Peru. Each story of his prodigious ascensions will fascinate those who know the mountain only through the cable car. Indeed, this book that Lionel Terray wrote entirely himself using notes and stories in which he fixed his memories throughout his career, was written for them. The Conquerors of the Useless is an indispensable book for anyone interested in the heroic fate of the last survivors of the Knights race. " (from publisher's website)
Contents
Decouverte de la montagne
Premieres conquetes
La guerre des Alpes
Je rencontre Lachenal
La face nord de l'Eiger
Guide de grandes courses
L'Annapurna
Sur les sommets du monde
Notes
EVE-DELACROIX PRIZE OF THE FRENCH ACADEMY 1962
French edition signed by Lionel Terray
Newsclipping tucked inside entitled "La mort de Lionel Terray a stufefie les membres du Ski Club"
ISBN
2070262146
Accession Number
AC636
Call Number
G512 T47 L47
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
Publication information on publisher's website
Websites
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Edward W. D. Holway : a pioneer of the Canadian Alps

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19831
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1931
Author
Palmer, Howard
Publisher
Minneapolis : University of Minnesota Press
Call Number
01.4 Pa18e
  1 website  
Author
Palmer, Howard
Responsibility
Howard Palmer
Publisher
Minneapolis : University of Minnesota Press
Published Date
1931
Physical Description
81p. : ill., port., map
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Canada
Selkirk Range
Botany
Abstract
Mountaineers will find in this little volume the authentic account of the ascents in the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks which made the name of E. W. D. Holway so well known to the climbing fraternity not many years ago. Readers who may never have seen a mountain will enjoy the book simply as the true tale of a remarkable man whogave up commercial pursuits to become a professor of botany and an explorer of little-known Alpine ranges. The book is composed largely of Mr. Holway’s intimate letters and diaries which tell his story with an engaging touch that continually makes light of the dangers, difficulties and hardships inseparable from pioneer work. The trials and tribulations of “backpacking” are graphically portrayed by the author. The book was designed to cover, as a part of a well-rounded biography, the mountaineering experiences of its subject. We think that the task has been well done and commend the work to the attention of readers interested in the Canadian Alps. Mr. Palmer’s book, with an introduction by the late Professor J. Arthur Harris, former head of the Department of Botany at the University of Minnesota, is enriched with illustrations of many of the peaks referred to in the text. It is very well printed and attractive in format. (From American Alpine Club)
Contents
Preface
A pioneer of the Canadian Alps
Earliest climbs
The maturity of mountaineer
The first expedition into the Cariboos
Conclusion
Supplementary letters
List of ascents and explorations by Edward W.D. Holway
Mountaineering papers by Edward W.D. Holway
Notes
Annotated by Ernest Feuz
Accession Number
2019.43
Call Number
01.4 Pa18e
Collection
Archives Library
URL Notes
Book review as per the American Alpine Club
Websites
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The eight mountains : a novel

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25050
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2016
Author
Cognetti, Paolo (author)
Carnell, Simon (translator)
Segre, Erica (translator)
Publisher
New York : Atria Books - an imprint of Simon & Schuster, Inc.
Call Number
P T44 C64
  1 website  
Author
Cognetti, Paolo (author)
Carnell, Simon (translator)
Segre, Erica (translator)
Publisher
New York : Atria Books - an imprint of Simon & Schuster, Inc.
Published Date
2016
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Italy
Fiction
Mountaineering
Abstract
Pietro is a lonely boy living in Milan. With his parents becoming more distant each day, the only thing the family shares is their love for the mountains that surround Italy. While on vacation at the foot of the Aosta Valley, Pietro meets Bruno, an adventurous, spirited local boy. Together they spend many summers exploring the mountains’ meadows and peaks and discover the similarities and differences in their lives, their backgrounds, and their futures. The two boys come to find the true meaning of friendship and camaraderie, even as their divergent paths in life—Bruno’s in the mountains, Pietro’s across the world—test the strength and meaning of their connection. (from Simon & Schuster website)
Contents
Prologue
One - mountain of childhood
Two - the house of reconciliation
Three - a friend in winter
ISBN
9781501169892
Accession Number
AC639
Call Number
P T44 C64
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
Summary on Simon & Schuster website
Websites
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End of the rope : mountains, marriage, and motherhood

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25047
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2018
Author
Redford, Jan
Publisher
Berkeley, California : Counterpoint Press
Call Number
G512 E53 R43
  1 website  
Author
Redford, Jan
Publisher
Berkeley, California : Counterpoint Press
Published Date
2018
Physical Description
x, 303 pages, 24 unnumbered pages of plates
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Rock climbing
Mountaineering
Women
Biography
Abstract
In this funny and gritty debut memoir, praised by Outside, Sierra, Alpinist, and more, Jan Redford grows from a reckless rock climber to a mother who fights to win back her future. As a teenager, she sets her sights on the improbable dream of climbing mountains. By age twenty, she’s a climber with a magnetic attraction to misadventures and the wrong men. Redford finally finds the love of her life, an affable Rockies climber. When he is killed in an avalanche in Alaska, a grieving Redford finds comfort in the arms of another extreme alpinist. Before long, they are married, with a baby on the way. While her husband works as a logger, Redford tackles the traditional role of wife and mother. But soon, she pursues her own dream, one that pits her against her husband. End of the Rope is Redford’s telling of heart-stopping adventures, from being rescued off El Capitan to leading a group of bumbling cadets across a glacier. It is her laughter-filled memoir of friendships with women in that masculine world. Most moving, this is the story of her struggle to make her own way in the mountains and in life. To lead, not follow. (from Counterpoint Press website)
Contents
First climb -- On the rocks -- Lion's layback -- The rescue -- Speed ruts -- Learning to roll -- Bugaboo -- World's toughest milkman -- Fragile ice -- We're gathered here today -- Aberdeen -- Show no fear -- Climbing girlfriend -- The final last straw -- The memo -- In the arms of a mountain -- The underwear drawer -- Teetering on the edge -- Pink wedding dress -- The waiting -- Miracles -- Into the shadows -- Back on the sharp end -- Yodel village -- You lead, I'll follow -- Carsick -- Die young, stay pretty -- Grant's lunch -- Fractured -- Playing dead -- Mama spiders -- Remember the lilac -- Power surge -- Leaving Chaba -- Only four years -- One little "non" -- Second chances.
ISBN
9780345812315
Accession Number
AC639
Call Number
G512 E53 R43
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
Summary on Counterpoint Press website
Websites
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Fall of heaven : Whymper's tragic Matterhorn climb

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25031
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2017
Author
Messner, Reinhold (author)
Bierling, Billi (translator)
Publisher
Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
Call Number
G512 F35 M47
  1 website  
Author
Messner, Reinhold (author)
Bierling, Billi (translator)
Publisher
Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
Published Date
2017
Physical Description
206 pages
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Whymper, Edward
Biography
Matterhorn
Abstract
As Fall of Heaven begins, we join professional mountain guide Jean-Antoine Carrel as he tries and fails, again and again, to summit the Matterhorn—one of the most famous and iconic peaks in the Alps. Is it the “Devil’s mountain,” as the locals call it? Should he heed the village priest who warned that its summit was not meant to be climbed? Carrel is undeterred, he just needs capable climbers to join him. Enter Edward Whymper, who in 1861 at the age of 21 decided—unbeknownst to Carrel—that he would be the first to climb the Matterhorn. So the storyline is set, except that where Carrel is captivating, Whymper is utterly unsympathetic as an adventurer. He is mean and disdainful of guides, describing them as little more than porters who eat and drink too much. Despite this attitude, Whymper’s quest leads him inexorably into partnership with Carrel. The story follows their many attempts to find a route to the top of the Matterhorn, but then fate pulls them apart just as Whymper finds the line. His successful summit on July 14, 1865, in which Carrel did not take part, shocked the Victorian world with both awe and revulsion as four members of Whymper’s party died in frightening falls. Famed climber and author Reinhold Messner acknowledges that Whymper was the first man to summit the Matterhorn, the last of the great Alpine peaks to be climbed and representing the beginning of an age of alpinism based on difficulty rather than conquest. But rather than leaving a hero’s legacy, Whymper is revealed as the Captain Ahab of alpinism, a team leader who accepted no responsibility for the deaths of his teammates. Fall of Heaven is an exciting tale and an examination of the different types of men who were caught up in the adventuring spirit of the Victorian age, and the ironic fates that can follow success or failure. (from Mountaineers Books website)
Notes
Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival 2019
ISBN
9781680510850
Accession Number
AC638
Call Number
G512 F35 M47
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
Summary on Mountaineers Books website
Websites
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Fisher Peak chronicles : real stories from a tall mountain -- the legacy of Mount Fisher

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19889
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2014
Author
Powell, Keith G.
Publisher
Cranbrook, British Columbia : Wild Horse Creek Press
Call Number
01.4 P87f
  1 website  
Author
Powell, Keith G.
Responsibility
Keith G. Powell
Publisher
Cranbrook, British Columbia : Wild Horse Creek Press
Published Date
2014
Physical Description
230 pages : illustrations, maps ; 23 cm
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Canadian Rockies
History-Canada
Abstract
One of the most photographed landmarks in the Kootenay region, Mount Fisher holds the fascination of locals and visitors with its majestic vista and relatively easy access. It is our own little Mt. Everest, and scaling it has become a rite-of-passage for many outdoor enthusiasts from near and far. Fisher Peak Chronicles captures the heritage, culture and legacy of Mount Fisher through a series of real adventure stories from contributors and historical sources.
Contents
Introduction: Fisher Peak is everyone's own little Mount Everest (pg. 7)
Chapter 1 - Living in the shadow of Fisher Peak - the missing chapter - 1883 (pg. 12)
Chapter 2 - Early Explorations: David Thompson - 1807 (pg. 18)
Chapter 3: Young John W. Sullivan Spies Mount Fisher from a distance - 1859 (pg. 22)
Chapter 4: More Wild Horse discoveries -1865 (pg. 26)
Chapter 5: The mountaineering Account of T.G. Longstaff in the Rockies - 1911 (pg. 30)
Chapter 6: No man has reached the summit - 1899 (pg. 40)
Chapter 7: Aurthur Nicol and George Lum credited with first ascent of Mount Fisher - 1910 (pg. 44)
Chapter 8: Scaling Mount Fisher becomes a popular pastime - 1930's (pg. 48)
Chapter 9: Fisher Peak scaled by amateur climbers - 1934 (pg. 54)
Chapter 10: Fisher Peak again tamed by climbers - 1934 (pg. 60)
Chapter 11: Fisher Peak visited by more parties - 1936 (pg. 66)
Chapter 12: The Ryckmans - a pioneer family of the East Kootenay (pg. 70)
Chapter 13: Mother's Day on the mountain -1967 (pg. 76)
Chapter 14: Mount Fisher log book entries 1981 - 1983 (pg. 84)
Chapter 15: Hiking Trails of the East Kootenay - Mount Fisher by Ian Bennett - 1982 (pg. 118)
Chapter 16: More Mount Fisher adventures and log book entries -1994 and 1999 (pg. 122)
Chapter 17: How I survived my solo climb and a broken leg - 2000 (pg. 140)
Chapter 18: Mount Fisher, a pinnacle in a Hall of Fame hockey career - 2000 (pg. 148)
Chapter 19: A mother's anguish - 2001 (pg. 154)
Chapter 20: I still pine for my CBC coffee mug - 2002 (pg. 162)
Chapter 21: Fond memories of Nak Nakahara and Mount Fisher - 2008 (pg. 166)
Chapter 22: Fisher Peak - the first peak in our next stage of life - 2009 (pg. 170)
Chapter 23: Some final thoughts on climbing Mount Fisher - 2012 (pg. 174)
Chapter 24: Remember the risks of climbing Mount Fisher - 2012 (pg. 178)
Chapter 25: Trial by vertigo by Dan Mills - 2013 (pg. 184)
Chapter 26: Question and answers with Bruce WIlliams - 2013 (pg. 188)
Chapter 27: Chasing the light on Fisher Peak - by Janice Strong 2013 (pg. 192)
Chapter 28: Meet Danny Kerr, a true man of the mountains - 2013 (pg. 196)
Chapter 29: Bob O'Brien - legend of Mount Fisher - 2011 (pg. 200)
Chapter 30: Elvin Townsend - a man on the move - 2013 (pg. 206)
Epilogue (pg. 210)
Bibliography (pg. 214)
Special Thank you (pg. 215)
Mount Fisher photos (pg. 216-223)
Personal climbing record (pg. 224-228)
Notes
The front inside cover has been annotated by the author. Annotation reads, "Keith G. Powell"
ISBN
9780981214634
Accession Number
2019.62
Call Number
01.4 P87f
Collection
Archives Library
URL Notes
The URL is linked to the website for which the abstract has been taken from
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The Great Glacier and its house : the story of the first center of alpinism in North America, 1885-1925

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20180
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1982
Author
Putnam, William Lowell
Publisher
New York : American Alpine Club
Call Number
01.4 P98t reference
  1 website  
Author
Putnam, William Lowell
Responsibility
Willaim Lowell Putnam
Publisher
New York : American Alpine Club
Published Date
1982
Physical Description
23 pages : illustrations, portraits, map
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Glacier House
Illecillewaet Glacier
Selkirk Mountains
Railway routes
Railway stations
Railways
Tourism
Mountaineering
American Alpine Club
History
Abstract
he hotel is gone and the passenger trains, now rarely on time, go by only once daily. The Great Glacier has all but vanished. The motor traffic on the fast, modern highway sweeps past in ignorance that this deep, half-forgotten, Illecillewaet valley of the Selkirk Mountains, with its dark forests and glittering summits, was the cradle of professional North American mountaineering and, for several decades, the principal Canadian attraction for climbers from three continents. Surely the time has long since passed for someone to tell the story of the early days when geologists, scientists, alpinists, guides, tourists and more than a few of our continent’s empire builders stopped in Glacier, British Columbia to explore, study, climb, earn a modest living, admire the scenery or just rest from their labors. It is most appropriate that William L. Putnam, one of America’s outstanding experts on the Selkirks, should have undertaken the task of writing a history of the area. It is even more appropriate that this history should have been published by The American Alpine Club, whose first president, Professor Charles E. Fay, spent many sunny days over several seasons scaling the region’s unclimbed summits and, as we learn from the text, many rainy weeks in the Old Glacier House where at idle moments he amused himself by analyzing the comments in the hotel’s guest register. The author has labored hard and gone to great lengths to obtain original source material and to check facts. As might be expected, his story begins with the construction of the Canadian Pacific track through Roger’s Pass; without it, the central Selkirks and the outstanding Matterhorn-like crest of Mount Sir Donald would no doubt still be little known and less visited. The absence of dining cars on the early transcontinental express trains, plus the superb view of what was then the awesome Illecillewaet Glacier, led to the building of a small restaurant-hotel by the track some five miles west of the pass. In time that hotel grew to become the Canadian Pacific’s western show-piece. Tourists, scientists, mountaineers and guides arrived in growing numbers. The peaks were measured and climbed, trails were built, caves explored and an electric generator was constructed to light the premises. A pet bear was even provided on the grounds for the entertainment of guests. Then, slowly, the Great Glacier retreated, the railroad was modernized and rerouted through a five-mile tunnel some distance from the hotel, tourists and climbers alike went off to war on the battlefields of France, and the Canadian Pacific shifted its emphasis to its latter-day attraction at Lake Louise in the nearby Rockies. The old hotel was closed, then torn down, and the valley and its glacier almost forgotten. Such is the skeleton of Putnam’s story. But it is far more. Putnam has labored industriously. He has unearthed, and quoted at length, the original on-the-spot observations of the early visitors in the decades between 1890 and 1920. He has recovered ancient photographs, many excellent, to illustrate the stories and anecdotes he recounts. Thanks to his labor of love, those of us who are familiar only with modern mountaineering now have the opportunity to learn what climbing was like in the good old days around the turn of the century. Despite its deceptive scrapbook style, the work is scholarly. It is also highly nostalgic. The author is at his best with the history of the early climbing. One wishes he had personally said more and quoted less—but, then, many of the quotations are memorable. He might also have omitted, or at least modified, the chapter on distant Mount Sir Sandford, for its story, while essential in any broad account of Selkirk climbing, belongs elsewhere and shifts the focus away from the House and the Glacier at the very moment when the reader has become engrossed in both. But these, however, are minor flaws, overshadowed by good research, an entertaining style, excellent history and magnificent illustrations. Samuel H. Goodhue (from American Alpine Club)
Contents
Introduction
The Railroad Track
The House
The Tourists
First Climbers
Men of Science
Alpina Americana
Britannic Majesty
Canadians at Last
Some of the Best
The Last Big Mountain
The Rest is Silence
Appendices
A: The Guides
B: Place Names in the Central Selkirks
Bibliography
Index
Notes
Signed by author - addressed to Hans Gmoser
ISBN
0930410130
Accession Number
AC637
Call Number
01.4 P98t reference
Collection
Archives Library
URL Notes
Link to book review on American Alpine Club website
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Hamish MacInnes : the fox of Glencoe

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25653
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2021
Author
MacInnes, Hamish
Publisher
Scotland : Scottish Mountaineering Press
Call Number
01.2 M26h
  1 website  
Author
MacInnes, Hamish
Responsibility
Edited by Deziree Wilson
Publisher
Scotland : Scottish Mountaineering Press
Published Date
2021
Physical Description
367 pages : illustrations (some colour), portraits (some colour) ; 23 cm
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Mountaineers
Scotland
Biographies
Abstract
From a youthful solo of the Matterhorn, through historic first ascents, hunting for treasure, inventing equipment and pioneering mountain rescue, Hamish MacInnes recalls a lifetime of epic adventures in this eclectic selection of tales. His restless curiosity and pragmatic approach to risk and loss are vivdly rendered with wry, elegant style, offering unique insight into the mind of one of the greatest mountaineers of our time. -- From back cover
ISBN
9781907233395
Accession Number
P2022.14
Call Number
01.2 M26h
Collection
Archives Library
URL Notes
Mountain Literature (Non Fiction) The Jon Whyte Award 2022 Winner
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Himalaya - the tribulations of mick & vic

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25045
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2017
Author
Fowler, Mick
Saunders, Victor
Publisher
LULU.COM
Call Number
G512 H56 F69
  1 website  
Author
Fowler, Mick
Saunders, Victor
Publisher
LULU.COM
Published Date
2017
Physical Description
267 pages : ill.
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Mountaineers, British
Himalaya Mountains
Biography
Abstract
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders, famed British alpinists learned to know each other while winter climbing in Scotland, in all kind of weather, mostly bad: an ideal stepping stone for great Himalayan adventures. They shared three expeditions in Pakistan: The ascents of Bojohagur (7329m), Spantik (7027m) and Ultar (7388m). The tales of these selected adventures, published separately over three of their books (rewarded several times - Banff festival, Boardman Tasker), have been assembled in a new book: HIMALAYA - Mick and Vic' Tribulations. The two pals' tales are intertwined and offer two visions sometimes similar, sometimes different of the same events, with a caustic humour at the turn of every single line. This refreshing, compelling text full of funny and uncommon anecdotes is also the story of their strong friendship. Besides the amateurs of mountaineering tales, this book should please the amateurs of unconventional atmospheres. (from Lulu website)
Contents
Forward
Prelude
Part One - in Great-Britain
Part Two - Bojohaghur, 1984
Part Three - Spantik, 1987
Part Four - Ultar, 1991
Apologue
Twenty Nine Years After
ISBN
9781326804817
Accession Number
AC639
Call Number
G512 H56 F69
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
Summary on LULU website
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Honouring high places : the mountain life of Junko Tabei

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19852
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2017
Author
Tabei, Junko
Rolfe, Helen Y.
Publisher
Victoria, BC : Rocky Mountain Books Ltd
Edition
1st ed.
Call Number
G512 T33 H66
  1 website  
Author
Tabei, Junko
Rolfe, Helen Y.
Responsibility
Junko Tabei and Helen Y. Rolfe, translated by Yumiko Hiraki and Rieko Holtved
Edition
1st ed.
Publisher
Victoria, BC : Rocky Mountain Books Ltd
Published Date
2017
Physical Description
376 pages
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Mountaineers Women
Mountaineers, Japanese
Biography
Abstract
"A collection of personal stories and reflections based on the memoirs of Junko Tabei, the first woman to climb Mount Everest and the Seven Summits. Honouring High Places is a compelling collection of highlights from Junko Tabei's stirring life that she considered important, inspiring and interesting to mountaineering culture. Until now, her works have been available only in Japanese, and RMB is honoured to be sharing these profound and moving stories with the English-speaking world for the first time. The collection opens on Mount Everest, where the first all-women's expedition is met with disaster but pushes on against all odds. The story then shifts to the early years of Tabei's life and reflects on her countryside childhood as a frail girl with no talent for sport, and cultural expectations that ignored her passion for mountains. With reminiscences of the early days of female climbers on Everest, the deaths of fellow mountaineers, Tabei's pursuit of Mount Tomur, a cancer diagnosis, and efforts to restore a love for nature in the surviving youth of the Fukushima earthquake and tsunami that hit Japan in 2011, this beautifully curated collection of essays captures the essence of a notable time and the strength of character of one of the 20th and 21st centuries' female mountaineering pioneers."-- Provided by publisher.
Contents
Author's note
Introduction by Setsuko Kitamura
Chapter 1 - avalanche!
Chapter 2 - the meaning of mountains
Chapter 3 - Annapurna III
Chapter 4 - Mount Everest
Chapter 5 - to the top ofthe world
Chapter 6 - the route
Chapter 7 - finalists
Chapter 8 - South Col
Chapter 9 - the summit
Chapter 10 - endgame
Chapter 11 - women on Everest
Chapter 12 - Mount Tombur, Pobeda Peak
Chapter 13 - Aconcagua
Chapter 14 - Carstensz Pyramid
Chapter 15 - mountains of later life
About Junko by Masanobu Tabei
A son's tribute by Shinya Tabei
Beyond mountains by Setsuko Kitamura
Life chronology
Glossary
Acknowledgements
References
Index
Notes
Winner of the Mountaineering History category at the 2018 Banff Mountain Book Competition Awards
ISBN
9780771602167
Accession Number
AC634
Call Number
G512 T33 H66
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
2018 Banff Mountain Book Competition Awards website
Websites
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Karakoram : climbing through the Kashmir conflict

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19903
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2017
Author
Swenson, Steve
Publisher
Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
Call Number
DS485 S94 K37
  1 website  
Author
Swenson, Steve
Responsibility
Steven Swenson
Publisher
Seattle, Washington : Mountaineers Books
Published Date
2017
Physical Description
315 p. : illustrations (some colour)
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Kashmir
Mountaineering
Karakoram Range
Karakorum Mountains
Pakistan
Everest, Mount
Biography
Abstract
Pertains to the climbs attempted by Steven Swenson from 1980 to 2015 in the Karakoram range as they related to the Kashmir conflict
Contents
Foreward by Greg Child
Author's note
Preface
Map legend
Map of the Karakoram region
Chapter 1 - to Pakistan
Chapter 2 - elusive summits
Chapter 3 - K2 at last
Chapter 4 - life and death
Chapter 5 - Everest
Chapter 6 - one more try
Chapter 7 - after 9/11
Chapter 8 - the killer mountain
Chapter 9 - the world's hardest mountains
Chapter 10 - the risk of regret
Chapter 11 - attack
Chapter 12 - passing the torch
Sources
Acknoledgements
Index
ISBN
9780594859731
Accession Number
AC634
Call Number
DS485 S94 K37
Collection
Alpine Club of Canada Library
URL Notes
American Alpine Club article
Websites
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