topic:"mountaineering" found 3 records - Research Collections

Abstract: he hotel is gone and the passenger trains, now rarely on time, go by only once daily. The Great Glacier has all but vanished. The motor traffic on the fast, modern highway sweeps past in ignorance that this deep, half-forgotten, Illecillewaet valley of the Selkirk Mountains, with its dark forests and glittering summits, was the cradle of professional North American mountaineering and, for several decades, the principal Canadian attraction for climbers from three continents. Surely the time has long since passed for someone to tell the story of the early days when geologists, scientists, alpinists, guides, tourists and more than a few of our continent’s empire builders stopped in Glacier, British Columbia to explore, study, climb, earn a modest living, admire the scenery or just rest from their labors. It is most appropriate that William L. Putnam, one of America’s outstanding experts on the Selkirks, should have undertaken the task of writing a history of the area. It is even more appropriate that this history should have been published by The American Alpine Club, whose first president, Professor Charles E. Fay, spent many sunny days over several seasons scaling the region’s unclimbed summits and, as we learn from the text, many rainy weeks in the Old Glacier House where at idle moments he amused himself by analyzing the comments in the hotel’s guest register. The author has labored hard and gone to great lengths to obtain original source material and to check facts. As might be expected, his story begins with the construction of the Canadian Pacific track through Roger’s Pass; without it, the central Selkirks and the outstanding Matterhorn-like crest of Mount Sir Donald would no doubt still be little known and less visited. The absence of dining cars on the early transcontinental express trains, plus the superb view of what was then the awesome Illecillewaet Glacier, led to the building of a small restaurant-hotel by the track some five miles west of the pass. In time that hotel grew to become the Canadian Pacific’s western show-piece. Tourists, scientists, mountaineers and guides arrived in growing numbers. The peaks were measured and climbed, trails were built, caves explored and an electric generator was constructed to light the premises. A pet bear was even provided on the grounds for the entertainment of guests. Then, slowly, the Great Glacier retreated, the railroad was modernized and rerouted through a five-mile tunnel some distance from the hotel, tourists and climbers alike went off to war on the battlefields of France, and the Canadian Pacific shifted its emphasis to its latter-day attraction at Lake Louise in the nearby Rockies. The old hotel was closed, then torn down, and the valley and its glacier almost forgotten. Such is the skeleton of Putnam’s story. But it is far more. Putnam has labored industriously. He has unearthed, and quoted at length, the original on-the-spot observations of the early visitors in the decades between 1890 and 1920. He has recovered ancient photographs, many excellent, to illustrate the stories and anecdotes he recounts. Thanks to his labor of love, those of us who are familiar only with modern mountaineering now have the opportunity to learn what climbing was like in the good old days around the turn of the century. Despite its deceptive scrapbook style, the work is scholarly. It is also highly nostalgic. The author is at his best with the history of the early climbing. One wishes he had personally said more and quoted less—but, then, many of the quotations are memorable. He might also have omitted, or at least modified, the chapter on distant Mount Sir Sandford, for its story, while essential in any broad account of Selkirk climbing, belongs elsewhere and shifts the focus away from the House and the Glacier at the very moment when the reader has become engrossed in both. But these, however, are minor flaws, overshadowed by good research, an entertaining style, excellent history and magnificent illustrations. Samuel H. Goodhue (from American Alpine Club)

Contents: Introduction; The Railroad Track; The House; The Tourists; First Climbers; Men of Science; Alpina Americana; Britannic Majesty; Canadians at Last; Some of the Best; The Last Big Mountain; The Rest is Silence; Appendices; A: The Guides; B: Place Names in the Central Selkirks; Bibliography; Index

Notes: Signed by author - addressed to Hans Gmoser

ISBN: 0930410130

Accession Number: AC637

Call Number: 01.4 P98t reference

Collection: Archives Library

URL Notes: Link to book review on American Alpine Club website

Websites

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198232200/The-Great-Glacier-and-Its-House

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Hamish MacInnes : the fox of Glencoe

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25653

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Published Date: 2021

Author: MacInnes, Hamish

Publisher: Scotland : Scottish Mountaineering Press

Call Number: 01.2 M26h

1 website

Author: MacInnes, Hamish

Responsibility: Edited by Deziree Wilson

Publisher: Scotland : Scottish Mountaineering Press

Published Date: 2021

Physical Description: 367 pages : illustrations (some colour), portraits (some colour) ; 23 cm

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Mountaineering; Mountaineers; Scotland; Biographies

Abstract: From a youthful solo of the Matterhorn, through historic first ascents, hunting for treasure, inventing equipment and pioneering mountain rescue, Hamish MacInnes recalls a lifetime of epic adventures in this eclectic selection of tales. His restless curiosity and pragmatic approach to risk and loss are vivdly rendered with wry, elegant style, offering unique insight into the mind of one of the greatest mountaineers of our time. -- From back cover

ISBN: 9781907233395

Accession Number: P2022.14

Call Number: 01.2 M26h

Collection: Archives Library

URL Notes: Mountain Literature (Non Fiction) The Jon Whyte Award 2022 Winner

Websites

https://www.banffcentre.ca/2022-banff-mountain-book-competition-awards

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Native air : a novel

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25656

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Published Date: 2022

Author: Howland, Jonathan

Publisher: Brattleboro, Vermont : Green Writers Press

Call Number: 05.2 H84n

1 website

Author: Howland, Jonathan

Publisher: Brattleboro, Vermont : Green Writers Press

Published Date: 2022

Physical Description: 372 pages : illustrations ; 24 cm

Medium: Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)

Subjects: Fiction; Mountaineering

Abstract: In a debut novel from Green Writers Press by Jonathan Howland, the austere beauty and high exposure of mountain adventure provide the context and the measure for what it means to be alive for climbing partners Joe Holland and Pete Hunter--until one of them isn’t. When the book opens, it’s the mid-80s. Joe Holland, the novel’s narrator, is a climber and a seeker, but mostly he’s Pete Hunter’s shadow. The two meet in college and spend the next ten years living at the base of any rock that appears scalable, most of them near Yosemite and California’s High Sierra. The joys and strains of their friendship comprise the novel’s first half. In the second, the bare bones--obsession, grief, love, and repair--come into stark relief when Pete’s grown son Will calls Joe back into climbing, into the past, and into breathless vitality -- Front dust jacket flap

ISBN: 9781950584901

Accession Number: P2022.14

Call Number: 05.2 H84n

Collection: Archives Library

URL Notes: Banff Mountain Book Competition Grand Prize Winner, 2022

Websites

https://www.banffcentre.ca/articles/native-air-jonathan-howland-book-grand-prize-winner#:~:text=Native%20Air%20by%20Jonathan%20Howland%20wins%202022%20Banff%20Mountain%20Book%20Competition%20Grand%20Prize,-By&text=BANFF%2C%20AB%2C%20November%203%2C,2022%20Banff%20Mountain%20Book%20Competition.

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