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Alpine huts in the Rockies, Selkirks and Purcells...

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20181
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1986
Author
Kariel, Herbert G.
Kariel, Pat
Publisher
Banff : Alpine Club of Canada
Call Number
06.5 K11a
Author
Kariel, Herbert G.
Kariel, Pat
Responsibility
by Herbert G. Kariel and Patricia E. Kariel
Publisher
Banff : Alpine Club of Canada
Published Date
1986
Physical Description
183p. : ill., maps, plans, ports
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Architecture
Cabins
Cabins and shelters
Huts
Mountaineering
History
Abstract
Pertains to alpine huts in the Rocky Mountains, Selkirk Mountains, and Purcell Mountains - includes photographs, history, and other details.
Contents
Prologue
Rocky Mountains:
Lake Louise-Yoho Area:
Abbot Pass Hut
Elizabeth Parker Hut
Fay Hut
Stanley Mitchell Hut
Halfway/Ptarmigan Hut
Graham Cooper Hut
Neil Colgan Hut
Castle Mountain Hut
Wapta Icefield Area:
Balfour Hut
Peter and Catharine Whyte Hut / Petyto Hut
Bow Hut
Banff-Jasper National Park Boundary Areas:
Saskatchewan Glacier Hut
Athabasca Glacier Hut
Lloyd MacKay / Mount Freshfield Hut
Mount Alberta Hut
Jasper Area:
Pocahontas / Disaster Point Hut
Wates-Gibson-Memorial Hut
Ralph Forster / Mount Robson Hut
Mount Colin Centennial Hut
Fryatt Creek / Sydney Vallance Hut
Lawrence Grassi / Mount Clemenceau Hut
Shangri-La and Watchtower Cabins
Fortress Lake Cabin
Mount Assiniboine Area:
Naiset Cabins
Robin C. Hind / Mount Assiniboine Hut
Surprise Creek Cabin
Police Meadows Cabin
Mitchell River Cabin
Bryant Creek and Egypt Lake Shelters
Other Huts in the Rockies:
CMC Valley / Archie Simpson Hut
Elk Lake Cabin
Fish Lake Cabin
Selkirk Mountains:
Rogers Pass Area:
Hermit Hut
Glacier Circle Hut
Arthur O. Wheeler Hut
Sapphine Col Hut
Balu Pass Hut
Eva Lake Shelter
Northern Selkirks:
Fairy Meadow Hut
Sir Sandford / Great Cairn Hut
Kokanee Glacier Area:
Slocan Chief Cabin
Silver Spray Cabin
Woodbury Glacier Cabin
Enterprise Hut
Valhalla Ranges:
Mulvey Basin Hut
Gwillim Creek Cabin
Evans Lake Cabin
Cove Creek Cabin
Cahill Lake and Beatrice Lake Cabins
Nemo Creek Cabin
Sharp Creek Cabins
Wee Sandy Cabins
Wragge Creek Cabin
Other Huts in the Selkirks:
Echo Basin and Ripple Ridge Cabins
Purcell Mountains:
Bugaboo Area:
Conrad Kain Hut
Vowell / Mallory Igloo
McMurdo Creek Cabin
Epilogue
Appendix
Index
ISBN
0-920330-18-5
Accession Number
AC637
Call Number
06.5 K11a
Collection
Archives Library
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Alpine rising : Sherpas, Baltis, and the triumph of local climbers in the great ranges

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue26251
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2024
Author
McDonald, Bernadette
Publisher
Seattle, WA : Mountaineers Books
Call Number
01.1 M14a
Author
McDonald, Bernadette
Publisher
Seattle, WA : Mountaineers Books
Published Date
2024
Physical Description
269 pages
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Mountaineers
Mountains
Climbing
Himalaya Mountains
Sherpa
Sherpa-history
Nepal
Abstract
The story of the often unheralded and unrecognized stars of climbing in the Himalaya and the Karakoram: the local inhabitants of the mountainous regions of Pakistan, Tibet, India, and Nepal who have been support staff--porters, cooks, sirdars, and unacknowledged guides--for Western climbers for generations. ALPINE RISING focuses on the experiences and accomplishments of these Sherpas, Baltis, Ladakhis, Hunzas, Astoris, Magars, Bhotias, Rais, and Gurangs. Highlighted climbers range from Raghubir Thapa and Goman Singh who climbed with Albert Mummery in 1895, Ang Tharkay who climbed with Eric Shipton and Maurice Herzog, and Tenzing Norgay who, along with Edmund Hillary, was the first to summit Everest, to today's superstars, Ali Sadpara, Mingma G, Kama Rita, and others -- Provided by publisher.
ISBN
9781680515787
Accession Number
P2024.02
Call Number
01.1 M14a
Collection
Archives Library
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Edward Feuz Jr. : a story of enchantment

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25535
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2021
Author
Stephen, D. L.
Publisher
Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
Call Number
08.3 Stem4e
Author
Stephen, D. L.
Publisher
Victoria, British Columbia : Rocky Mountain Books
Published Date
2021
Physical Description
318 pages
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Feuz, Edward
Mountaineering
Mountaineers, Swiss
Guide
Swiss Guides Village, Edelweiss, B.C.
Tourism
History-Canada
Rocky Mountains
Abstract
As a young Swiss boy, Edward Feuz Jr. (1884–1981) developed an insatiable passion for climbing. In time, he traded his Lausbub reputation for that of a responsible Swiss guide and was eventually drawn to Canada in the footsteps of his father, Edward Feuz Sr. (1859–1944), who was one of the first Swiss guides hired by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1898 to develop the alpinism in western Canada. Handsome and charismatic, Edward (while still in training for his trade) was instantly smitten with the Canadian landscape — and so were his guests. They raved about the young man who showed such exceptional skills. He guided them all — professors, women of independent means, students, newspaper people, a Hindu holy man, and even “Sherlock Holmes” — through untrailed forests, across roaring streams, up icy glaciers, and to the tops of rocky summits. Young and old, they were all enchanted, and so they returned time and again — to the mountains and to their friend Edward. -- From back cover
Contents
Pilgrims ; Edward ; How it All Began ; How we came to Share the Enchantment ; Feuz Haus ; How They Did It ; Reading the Signs ; Snapshots ; Life with Edward ; Edward's Girls
ISBN
9781771605090
Accession Number
2021.41
Call Number
08.3 Stem4e
Location
Reading Room
Collection
Archives Library
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False summit : gender in mountaineering nonfiction

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue26216
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2021
Author
Rak, Julie
Publisher
Montreal ; Kingston ; London ; Chicago : McGill-Queen's University Press
Call Number
01.1 R14f
Author
Rak, Julie
Publisher
Montreal ; Kingston ; London ; Chicago : McGill-Queen's University Press
Published Date
2021
Physical Description
xii, 268 pages : illustrations, map ; 23 cm
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Mountaineers Women
Gender
Expeditions
Himalaya Mountains
Sexism
Feminism
Abstract
Exploring the role of gender politics in narratives about high-altitude mountaineering in the Himalayas and the Karakoram. The race to climb Everest catapulted mountain climbing, with its accompanying images of conquest and sport, into the public sphere on a global scale. But as a metaphor for the pinnacle of human achievement, mountaineering remains the preserve of traditional white male heroism. False Summit unpacks gender politics in the expedition narratives and memoirs of mountaineers in the Himalayas and the Karakoram. Why are women still a minority in the world's highest places? Julie Rak proposes that the genre has itself reached a "false summit"--a peak that proves not to be the pinnacle--and that mountaineering is not ready to welcome other ways of climbing or other kinds of climbers. For more than two centuries mountaineering, as an activity and as an ideal, has helped shape how the self is understood within the context of conquest, adventure, and proximity to risk. As climbing shows signs of becoming more diverse, Rak asks why change is so hard to achieve and why gender bias and other inequities exist in climbing at all. Exploring classic and lesser-known expedition accounts from Everest, K2, and Annapurna, False Summit helps us understand why mountaineering remains one of the most important ways to articulate gender identities and politics. -- Provided by publisher.
Contents
Leadership and Gender on Annapurna -- K2: The Gendered Rope -- Everest and Authenticity -- Everest: Gender Politics and the 1996 Disaster.
ISBN
9780228006268
Accession Number
P2024.01
Call Number
01.1 R14f
Collection
Archives Library
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The Great Glacier and its house : the story of the first center of alpinism in North America, 1885-1925

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20180
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1982
Author
Putnam, William Lowell
Publisher
New York : American Alpine Club
Call Number
01.4 P98t reference
  1 website  
Author
Putnam, William Lowell
Responsibility
Willaim Lowell Putnam
Publisher
New York : American Alpine Club
Published Date
1982
Physical Description
23 pages : illustrations, portraits, map
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Glacier House
Illecillewaet Glacier
Selkirk Mountains
Railway routes
Railway stations
Railways
Tourism
Mountaineering
American Alpine Club
History
Abstract
he hotel is gone and the passenger trains, now rarely on time, go by only once daily. The Great Glacier has all but vanished. The motor traffic on the fast, modern highway sweeps past in ignorance that this deep, half-forgotten, Illecillewaet valley of the Selkirk Mountains, with its dark forests and glittering summits, was the cradle of professional North American mountaineering and, for several decades, the principal Canadian attraction for climbers from three continents. Surely the time has long since passed for someone to tell the story of the early days when geologists, scientists, alpinists, guides, tourists and more than a few of our continent’s empire builders stopped in Glacier, British Columbia to explore, study, climb, earn a modest living, admire the scenery or just rest from their labors. It is most appropriate that William L. Putnam, one of America’s outstanding experts on the Selkirks, should have undertaken the task of writing a history of the area. It is even more appropriate that this history should have been published by The American Alpine Club, whose first president, Professor Charles E. Fay, spent many sunny days over several seasons scaling the region’s unclimbed summits and, as we learn from the text, many rainy weeks in the Old Glacier House where at idle moments he amused himself by analyzing the comments in the hotel’s guest register. The author has labored hard and gone to great lengths to obtain original source material and to check facts. As might be expected, his story begins with the construction of the Canadian Pacific track through Roger’s Pass; without it, the central Selkirks and the outstanding Matterhorn-like crest of Mount Sir Donald would no doubt still be little known and less visited. The absence of dining cars on the early transcontinental express trains, plus the superb view of what was then the awesome Illecillewaet Glacier, led to the building of a small restaurant-hotel by the track some five miles west of the pass. In time that hotel grew to become the Canadian Pacific’s western show-piece. Tourists, scientists, mountaineers and guides arrived in growing numbers. The peaks were measured and climbed, trails were built, caves explored and an electric generator was constructed to light the premises. A pet bear was even provided on the grounds for the entertainment of guests. Then, slowly, the Great Glacier retreated, the railroad was modernized and rerouted through a five-mile tunnel some distance from the hotel, tourists and climbers alike went off to war on the battlefields of France, and the Canadian Pacific shifted its emphasis to its latter-day attraction at Lake Louise in the nearby Rockies. The old hotel was closed, then torn down, and the valley and its glacier almost forgotten. Such is the skeleton of Putnam’s story. But it is far more. Putnam has labored industriously. He has unearthed, and quoted at length, the original on-the-spot observations of the early visitors in the decades between 1890 and 1920. He has recovered ancient photographs, many excellent, to illustrate the stories and anecdotes he recounts. Thanks to his labor of love, those of us who are familiar only with modern mountaineering now have the opportunity to learn what climbing was like in the good old days around the turn of the century. Despite its deceptive scrapbook style, the work is scholarly. It is also highly nostalgic. The author is at his best with the history of the early climbing. One wishes he had personally said more and quoted less—but, then, many of the quotations are memorable. He might also have omitted, or at least modified, the chapter on distant Mount Sir Sandford, for its story, while essential in any broad account of Selkirk climbing, belongs elsewhere and shifts the focus away from the House and the Glacier at the very moment when the reader has become engrossed in both. But these, however, are minor flaws, overshadowed by good research, an entertaining style, excellent history and magnificent illustrations. Samuel H. Goodhue (from American Alpine Club)
Contents
Introduction
The Railroad Track
The House
The Tourists
First Climbers
Men of Science
Alpina Americana
Britannic Majesty
Canadians at Last
Some of the Best
The Last Big Mountain
The Rest is Silence
Appendices
A: The Guides
B: Place Names in the Central Selkirks
Bibliography
Index
Notes
Signed by author - addressed to Hans Gmoser
ISBN
0930410130
Accession Number
AC637
Call Number
01.4 P98t reference
Collection
Archives Library
URL Notes
Link to book review on American Alpine Club website
Websites
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Hamish MacInnes : the fox of Glencoe

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25653
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2021
Author
MacInnes, Hamish
Publisher
Scotland : Scottish Mountaineering Press
Call Number
01.2 M26h
  1 website  
Author
MacInnes, Hamish
Responsibility
Edited by Deziree Wilson
Publisher
Scotland : Scottish Mountaineering Press
Published Date
2021
Physical Description
367 pages : illustrations (some colour), portraits (some colour) ; 23 cm
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mountaineering
Mountaineers
Scotland
Biographies
Abstract
From a youthful solo of the Matterhorn, through historic first ascents, hunting for treasure, inventing equipment and pioneering mountain rescue, Hamish MacInnes recalls a lifetime of epic adventures in this eclectic selection of tales. His restless curiosity and pragmatic approach to risk and loss are vivdly rendered with wry, elegant style, offering unique insight into the mind of one of the greatest mountaineers of our time. -- From back cover
ISBN
9781907233395
Accession Number
P2022.14
Call Number
01.2 M26h
Collection
Archives Library
URL Notes
Mountain Literature (Non Fiction) The Jon Whyte Award 2022 Winner
Websites
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Lake Louise : a diamond in the wilderness

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue6142
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
1982
Author
Whyte, Jon
Publisher
Banff : Altitude
Call Number
08.3 L14w
Author
Whyte, Jon
Responsibility
text by Jon Whyte
photographs compiled and edited by Carole Harmon
Publisher
Banff : Altitude
Published Date
1982
Physical Description
128p. : ill., ports., facsim
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Chateau Lake Louise
Mountaineering
ISBN
0-919381-06-5
Accession Number
3544
16000
7504
Call Number
08.3 L14w
Collection
Archives Library
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Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2022
Author
Buisse, Alex
Publisher
London : Vertebrate Publishing
Edition
First English Edition
Call Number
01.2 B87m o.s.
Author
Buisse, Alex
Responsibility
Translated by Natalie Berry
Edition
First English Edition
Publisher
London : Vertebrate Publishing
Published Date
2022
Physical Description
176 pages : illustrations (colour) ; 32 cm
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Mont Blanc
Switzerland
France
Italy
Alps
Eiger
Mountaineering
Guidebook
Photography
Photography, Aerial
Abstract
In Mont Blanc Lines, photographer and alpinist Alex Buisse has travelled the Mont Blanc massif to capture images of all the major mountain faces and to trace the classic climbing and skiing lines. As well as Mont Blanc itself, also featured are other Alpine icons, including the north faces of the Grandes Jorasses and the Froites, Aiguille du Midi, and the Grand Capucin. Whether on the ground in crampons or on skis, or in the air by ultralight or paraglider, he has captured the majesty of the range so that he can tell the story of the classic lines and present them to us in the most stunning way possible. Mont Blanc Lines features images taken during over a decade of mountaineering while Alex worked as a professional photographer based in Chamonix. Alex Buisse's story of these iconic mountain faces is mixed with the stories of climbers who have experienced great moments there. As a bonus feature, also included are the legendary faces of the Matterhorn and the Eiger North Face in Switzerland. -- From back cover.
ISBN
9781839811678
Accession Number
P2024.02
Call Number
01.2 B87m o.s.
Location
ARC O.S.
Collection
Archives Library
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Mount assiniboine : the story

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25540
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2020
Author
Scott, Chic
Publisher
Banff, A.B. : Assiniboine Publishing
Edition
First
Call Number
08.3 Sco3m
Author
Scott, Chic
Edition
First
Publisher
Banff, A.B. : Assiniboine Publishing
Published Date
2020
Physical Description
336 pages : illustrations (some colour), maps (chiefly colour), portraits (some colour) ; 32 cm
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Assiniboine, Mount
Tourism
History-Canada
Mountaineering
Climbing
Hiking
Camping
Backcountry
Travel
Abstract
This book tells the story of the history of Mount Assiniboine and the surrounding area. Mount Assiniboine is a beautiful mountain located in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park in south eastern British Columbia. -- Provided by publisher
Contents
First Nations History at Mount Assiniboine ; Part One: The Discovery of Mount Assiniboine (1800-1910) ; Part Two: The Wheeler Years (1913-1927) ; Part Three: Strom's Half-century: Part I (1928-1950) ; Part Four: Strom's Half-century: Part 2 (1950-1983) ; Part Five: The Renner Years (1983-2010) ; Part Six: A New Generation Takes Over
ISBN
9780981105932
Accession Number
P2022.06
Call Number
08.3 Sco3m
Collection
Archives Library
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Mountains and desire : climbing vs. the end of the world

https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue26237
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Published Date
2021
Author
Grebowicz, Margaret
Publisher
London, U.K. : Repeater Books
Call Number
02.8 G81m
Author
Grebowicz, Margaret
Publisher
London, U.K. : Repeater Books
Published Date
2021
Physical Description
113 pages
Medium
Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
Subjects
Climbing
Sport
Sport climbing
Mountaineering
Abstract
In 1923, a reporter asked George Mallory why he wanted to summit Mount Everest. "Because it's there." Today the question "why do this?" is included in nearly every mountaineering story of interview. Meanwhile, interest in climbing is steadily on the rise, from commerical mountaineering and climbing walls in university gyms to corporate workplaces to the flood of spectacular climbing imagery in advertising, cinema, and social media. [...] Taking the degradation of Everest and the success of Free Solo as its starting point, Mountains and Desire chases after what remains of this pursuit -- marred by its colonial history, coopted by national chauvinism, ableism, and the capitalist compulsion to unlimited growth -- for both climbers and their fans. -- From back cover
Contents
1. The ends of desire -- 2. Who will marry you now? -- 3. Just because someone has done it doesn't mean it's humanly possible -- 4. Everest traffic and the economy of walking -- 5. Climbing technotopia, or: Did free solo really happen? -- 6. Gestures of climbing -- 7. The last problem of the Himalaya.
ISBN
9781913462239
Accession Number
P2024.02
Call Number
02.8 G81m
Collection
Archives Library
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14 records – page 1 of 2.

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