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Canada's Everest? Rethinking the first ascent of Mount Logan and the politics of nationhood, 1925
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue12931
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Author
- Robinson, Zac
- Call Number
- 01.4 R56c Pam
- Author
- Robinson, Zac
- Responsibility
- PearlAnn Reichwein and Zac Robinson
- Physical Description
- p.95-97 : ill., maps
- Subjects
- Alpine Club of Canada
- American Alpine Club
- Exploration
- Lambart, Fred
- MacCarthy, Albert H
- Place names
- Notes
- Scholarly article reprint from Sports History Review, 2004, 35, 95-121
- Accession Number
- 7627
- Call Number
- 01.4 R56c Pam
- Collection
- Archives Library
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A Century of American alpinism, 2002
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20146
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2002
- Author
- Fay, Charles Ernest
- Bent, Allen Herbert
- Palmer, Howard
- Thorington, James Monroe
- Kauffman, Andrew John
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Publisher
- Boulder, CO : American Alpine Club,
- Call Number
- G505 F39 C46
1 website
- Author
- Fay, Charles Ernest
- Bent, Allen Herbert
- Palmer, Howard
- Thorington, James Monroe
- Kauffman, Andrew John
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Responsibility
- Charles Earnest Fay, Allen Herbert Bent, Howard Palmer, James Monroe Thorington, Andrew John Kauffman, William Lowell Putnam
- Publisher
- Boulder, CO : American Alpine Club,
- Published Date
- 2002
- Physical Description
- ix, 196 pages, xxxii pages of plates : illustrations, portraits
- Subjects
- American Alpine Club
- History
- Mountaineering
- Clubs
- Abstract
- Pertains to a century of American alpinism from 1902 to 2002
- Contents
- Forward
- Preface
- I Earliest American Mountaineers
- II Pacific Crests
- III Later and Farther North
- IV Tidewater Alaska
- V Early Amerian Ascents in the Alps
- VI Appalachian Mountain Club Roots
- VII The Social Aspect of Alpinism
- VIII To the Top of the Continent
- IX Other Mountain Clubs of America
- X Momentous Events
- XI Afield and at War
- XII Changing Mores
- XIII Moving West
- XIV Not All Sweetness and Light
- XV The Study of Mountain Elevations
- XVI Exclusiveness or Inclusiveness
- XVII Changing Faces
- Appendices
- Index
- Accession Number
- AC637
- Call Number
- G505 F39 C46
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- American Alpine Club link to book
Websites
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A climber's guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19847
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1930
- Author
- Palmer, Howard and J. Monroe Thorington
- Publisher
- [Philadelphia] American Alpine Club
- Edition
- second edition
- Call Number
- 01.4 P18a
- Responsibility
- Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington
- Edition
- second edition
- Publisher
- [Philadelphia] American Alpine Club
- Published Date
- 1930
- Physical Description
- [244] pages
- Subjects
- American Alpine Club
- Canadian Rocky Mountains
- Canadian Rockies
- Guide
- Mountain guides
- Canada
- Mountaineering
- Abstract
- Pertains to a comprehensive climbing guide based on the mountains in the Canadian Rockies. The book was likely to be considered an invaluable resource for mountaineers based on the complexity and detail of the information provided. In detail, the guide offers insight into the approximate locations, elevation gains, climbing distances/time, and additional relevant information pertaining to climbing in the Canadian Rocky Mountains.
- Contents
- Part one: international boundary to Kicking Horse pass
- Part two: Kicking Horse pass to Yellowhead pass
- Part three: Yellowhead pass to Jasper pass
- Accession Number
- 2019.48
- Call Number
- 01.4 P18a
- Collection
- Archives Library
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Columbia Mountains of Canada, Central
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue1032
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1992, 1937
- Author
- Fox, John Kevin
- Publisher
- New York : AAC Press
- Edition
- 7th ed
- Call Number
- F1087 C6 F6 1992
- F1087 C6 F6 1992 Copy 2
- Author
- Fox, John Kevin
- Edition
- 7th ed
- Publisher
- New York : AAC Press
- Published Date
- 1992, 1937
- Physical Description
- 557 pages, ill., maps,
- ISBN
- 0930410262
- Accession Number
- AC598 - Copy 2
- Call Number
- F1087 C6 F6 1992
- F1087 C6 F6 1992 Copy 2
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
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The golden years of Canadian mountaineering: asserted ethics, form, and style, 1886-1925
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue12933
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Author
- Robinson, Zac
- Call Number
- 01.4 R56g Pam
- Author
- Robinson, Zac
- Physical Description
- p.1-19
- Subjects
- Alberta, Mount
- Alpine Club (Great Britain)
- Alpine Club of Canada
- American Alpine Club
- Logan, Mount
- Mountain guides
- Mountaineers, British
- Mountaineers, Japanese
- Tourism
- Notes
- Scholarly article reprint from Sport History Review, 2004, 35, 1-19
- Accession Number
- 7627
- Call Number
- 01.4 R56g Pam
- Collection
- Archives Library
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The Great Glacier and its house : the story of the first center of alpinism in North America, 1885-1925
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20180
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1982
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Call Number
- 01.4 P98t reference
1 website
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Responsibility
- Willaim Lowell Putnam
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Published Date
- 1982
- Physical Description
- 23 pages : illustrations, portraits, map
- Subjects
- Glacier House
- Illecillewaet Glacier
- Selkirk Mountains
- Railway routes
- Railway stations
- Railways
- Tourism
- Mountaineering
- American Alpine Club
- History
- Abstract
- he hotel is gone and the passenger trains, now rarely on time, go by only once daily. The Great Glacier has all but vanished. The motor traffic on the fast, modern highway sweeps past in ignorance that this deep, half-forgotten, Illecillewaet valley of the Selkirk Mountains, with its dark forests and glittering summits, was the cradle of professional North American mountaineering and, for several decades, the principal Canadian attraction for climbers from three continents. Surely the time has long since passed for someone to tell the story of the early days when geologists, scientists, alpinists, guides, tourists and more than a few of our continent’s empire builders stopped in Glacier, British Columbia to explore, study, climb, earn a modest living, admire the scenery or just rest from their labors. It is most appropriate that William L. Putnam, one of America’s outstanding experts on the Selkirks, should have undertaken the task of writing a history of the area. It is even more appropriate that this history should have been published by The American Alpine Club, whose first president, Professor Charles E. Fay, spent many sunny days over several seasons scaling the region’s unclimbed summits and, as we learn from the text, many rainy weeks in the Old Glacier House where at idle moments he amused himself by analyzing the comments in the hotel’s guest register. The author has labored hard and gone to great lengths to obtain original source material and to check facts. As might be expected, his story begins with the construction of the Canadian Pacific track through Roger’s Pass; without it, the central Selkirks and the outstanding Matterhorn-like crest of Mount Sir Donald would no doubt still be little known and less visited. The absence of dining cars on the early transcontinental express trains, plus the superb view of what was then the awesome Illecillewaet Glacier, led to the building of a small restaurant-hotel by the track some five miles west of the pass. In time that hotel grew to become the Canadian Pacific’s western show-piece. Tourists, scientists, mountaineers and guides arrived in growing numbers. The peaks were measured and climbed, trails were built, caves explored and an electric generator was constructed to light the premises. A pet bear was even provided on the grounds for the entertainment of guests. Then, slowly, the Great Glacier retreated, the railroad was modernized and rerouted through a five-mile tunnel some distance from the hotel, tourists and climbers alike went off to war on the battlefields of France, and the Canadian Pacific shifted its emphasis to its latter-day attraction at Lake Louise in the nearby Rockies. The old hotel was closed, then torn down, and the valley and its glacier almost forgotten. Such is the skeleton of Putnam’s story. But it is far more. Putnam has labored industriously. He has unearthed, and quoted at length, the original on-the-spot observations of the early visitors in the decades between 1890 and 1920. He has recovered ancient photographs, many excellent, to illustrate the stories and anecdotes he recounts. Thanks to his labor of love, those of us who are familiar only with modern mountaineering now have the opportunity to learn what climbing was like in the good old days around the turn of the century. Despite its deceptive scrapbook style, the work is scholarly. It is also highly nostalgic. The author is at his best with the history of the early climbing. One wishes he had personally said more and quoted less—but, then, many of the quotations are memorable. He might also have omitted, or at least modified, the chapter on distant Mount Sir Sandford, for its story, while essential in any broad account of Selkirk climbing, belongs elsewhere and shifts the focus away from the House and the Glacier at the very moment when the reader has become engrossed in both. But these, however, are minor flaws, overshadowed by good research, an entertaining style, excellent history and magnificent illustrations. Samuel H. Goodhue (from American Alpine Club)
- Contents
- Introduction
- The Railroad Track
- The House
- The Tourists
- First Climbers
- Men of Science
- Alpina Americana
- Britannic Majesty
- Canadians at Last
- Some of the Best
- The Last Big Mountain
- The Rest is Silence
- Appendices
- A: The Guides
- B: Place Names in the Central Selkirks
- Bibliography
- Index
- Notes
- Signed by author - addressed to Hans Gmoser
- ISBN
- 0930410130
- Accession Number
- AC637
- Call Number
- 01.4 P98t reference
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Link to book review on American Alpine Club website
Websites
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- Date
- 1950 – 1960
- Material
- metal; rubber
- Catalogue Number
- 108.04.1115
- Description
- Metal ice piton with rubber end. Note attached: “BERNAYS ICE PITON. MADE BY DAVID BERNAYS (AAC, HMC) CA. 1955 FROM STAINLESS STEEL. MADE AT MASSACHUSETTS INST. OF TECHNOLOGY. DONATED BY EARLE R. WHIPPLE.”
1 image
- Title
- Ice Piton
- Date
- 1950 – 1960
- Material
- metal; rubber
- Description
- Metal ice piton with rubber end. Note attached: “BERNAYS ICE PITON. MADE BY DAVID BERNAYS (AAC, HMC) CA. 1955 FROM STAINLESS STEEL. MADE AT MASSACHUSETTS INST. OF TECHNOLOGY. DONATED BY EARLE R. WHIPPLE.”
- Subject
- Alpine Club of Canada
- American Alpine Club
- Earle Whipple
- David Bernays
- sports
- climbing
- mountaineering
- Credit
- Gift of Alpine Club of Canada, Canmore, 1985
- Catalogue Number
- 108.04.1115
Images
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Letter of commendation
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions53258
- Part Of
- Peter and Catharine Whyte fonds
- Scope & Content
- Image of a letter of thanks from Alpine Club of Canada to Bill Peyto on his rescue of Mrs. W. E. Stone after death of her husband on Mount Eon
- Date Range
- 1922
- Reference Code
- V683 / III / A / 15 / PA - 825
- Description Level
- 6 / Item
- GMD
- Photograph
1 image
- Part Of
- Peter and Catharine Whyte fonds
- Description Level
- 6 / Item
- Fonds Number
- M36 / V683 / S37
- Series
- V683 / III / A / 15 : Peter and Catharine Whyte: Collected Photographs
- Sous-Fonds
- V683
- Accession Number
- .
- Reference Code
- V683 / III / A / 15 / PA - 825
- GMD
- Photograph
- Date Range
- 1922
- Physical Description
- Photograph: 1 print ; b&w.
- Scope & Content
- Image of a letter of thanks from Alpine Club of Canada to Bill Peyto on his rescue of Mrs. W. E. Stone after death of her husband on Mount Eon
- Name Access
- Peyto, Bill
- Subject Access
- American Alpine Club
- Commendation
- Guides
- Guiding
- Mountaineering
- Rescue
- Language
- English
- Title Source
- Title based on item
- Processing Status
- Processed
Images
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Mount Logan Expedition records - correspondence
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/descriptions55570
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Scope & Content
- File pertains to various papers and correspondence between members of the Alpine Club of Canada, the American Alpine Club, and the individuals of the Mt Logan Expedition. Includes Director's papers, financial records, publicity and public relations records, reports, newsclippings; also telegrams to…
- Date Range
- 1923-1926
- Reference Code
- M200 / AC 00M / 152 - 168
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- GMD
- Organization record
- Private record
- Textual record
- Part Of
- Alpine Club of Canada fonds
- Description Level
- 5 / File
- Fonds Number
- M200 / S6 / V14
- Series
- I.A.1.e.i. Administration: expeditions - Mount Logan Expedition
- Sous-Fonds
- V14
- Accession Number
- 5200
- Reference Code
- M200 / AC 00M / 152 - 168
- Date Range
- 1923-1926
- Physical Description
- 39 cm of textual records (3 boxes ; 21.6 x 27.9 cm)
- Scope & Content
- File pertains to various papers and correspondence between members of the Alpine Club of Canada, the American Alpine Club, and the individuals of the Mt Logan Expedition. Includes Director's papers, financial records, publicity and public relations records, reports, newsclippings; also telegrams to Mr. and Mrs. Frederick Lambart.
- Name Access
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Subject Access
- Activities
- Administration
- Advertising
- Alpine Club of Canada
- American Alpine Club
- Cabins
- Cabins and shelters
- Camps
- Club
- Competition
- Discovery and exploration
- Environment
- Environment and Nature
- Exploration
- Guide
- Guides
- Hiking
- Mountain
- Mountain guides
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Mountains
- Mount Logan
- Mount Logan Expedition
- National parks and reserves
- Organizations
- Photography
- Scenery
- Sports and recreation
- Summit
- Geographic Access
- Canada
- Access Restrictions
- Access to negatives is by appointment only
- Language
- English
- Finding Aid
- A detailed list is available for a portion of the material.
- Related Material
- Material is closely related to expedition material in Sous-fonds III. Personal papers and photographs (H. F. Lambart papers and photographs; W. W. Foster photographs). Related oversize display prints can be found in Series I.A.1.j. (AC 00P / 137-147 and AC 00P / 275-280).
- Title Source
- Title based on material
- Processing Status
- Processed
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Mountain sickness : prevention, recognition & treatment
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue14798
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1980
- Author
- Hackett, Peter
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Edition
- [2d ed.]
- Call Number
- R H33 1980
- Author
- Hackett, Peter
- Edition
- [2d ed.]
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Published Date
- 1980
- Physical Description
- 75p. : ill
- Subjects
- Altitude
- Medicine
- American Alpine Club
- Notes
- Bibliography
- ISBN
- 0-930410-10-6
- Call Number
- R H33 1980
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
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