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The Great Glacier and its house : the story of the first center of alpinism in North America, 1885-1925
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20180
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1982
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Call Number
- 01.4 P98t reference
1 website
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Responsibility
- Willaim Lowell Putnam
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Published Date
- 1982
- Physical Description
- 23 pages : illustrations, portraits, map
- Subjects
- Glacier House
- Illecillewaet Glacier
- Selkirk Mountains
- Railway routes
- Railway stations
- Railways
- Tourism
- Mountaineering
- American Alpine Club
- History
- Abstract
- he hotel is gone and the passenger trains, now rarely on time, go by only once daily. The Great Glacier has all but vanished. The motor traffic on the fast, modern highway sweeps past in ignorance that this deep, half-forgotten, Illecillewaet valley of the Selkirk Mountains, with its dark forests and glittering summits, was the cradle of professional North American mountaineering and, for several decades, the principal Canadian attraction for climbers from three continents. Surely the time has long since passed for someone to tell the story of the early days when geologists, scientists, alpinists, guides, tourists and more than a few of our continent’s empire builders stopped in Glacier, British Columbia to explore, study, climb, earn a modest living, admire the scenery or just rest from their labors. It is most appropriate that William L. Putnam, one of America’s outstanding experts on the Selkirks, should have undertaken the task of writing a history of the area. It is even more appropriate that this history should have been published by The American Alpine Club, whose first president, Professor Charles E. Fay, spent many sunny days over several seasons scaling the region’s unclimbed summits and, as we learn from the text, many rainy weeks in the Old Glacier House where at idle moments he amused himself by analyzing the comments in the hotel’s guest register. The author has labored hard and gone to great lengths to obtain original source material and to check facts. As might be expected, his story begins with the construction of the Canadian Pacific track through Roger’s Pass; without it, the central Selkirks and the outstanding Matterhorn-like crest of Mount Sir Donald would no doubt still be little known and less visited. The absence of dining cars on the early transcontinental express trains, plus the superb view of what was then the awesome Illecillewaet Glacier, led to the building of a small restaurant-hotel by the track some five miles west of the pass. In time that hotel grew to become the Canadian Pacific’s western show-piece. Tourists, scientists, mountaineers and guides arrived in growing numbers. The peaks were measured and climbed, trails were built, caves explored and an electric generator was constructed to light the premises. A pet bear was even provided on the grounds for the entertainment of guests. Then, slowly, the Great Glacier retreated, the railroad was modernized and rerouted through a five-mile tunnel some distance from the hotel, tourists and climbers alike went off to war on the battlefields of France, and the Canadian Pacific shifted its emphasis to its latter-day attraction at Lake Louise in the nearby Rockies. The old hotel was closed, then torn down, and the valley and its glacier almost forgotten. Such is the skeleton of Putnam’s story. But it is far more. Putnam has labored industriously. He has unearthed, and quoted at length, the original on-the-spot observations of the early visitors in the decades between 1890 and 1920. He has recovered ancient photographs, many excellent, to illustrate the stories and anecdotes he recounts. Thanks to his labor of love, those of us who are familiar only with modern mountaineering now have the opportunity to learn what climbing was like in the good old days around the turn of the century. Despite its deceptive scrapbook style, the work is scholarly. It is also highly nostalgic. The author is at his best with the history of the early climbing. One wishes he had personally said more and quoted less—but, then, many of the quotations are memorable. He might also have omitted, or at least modified, the chapter on distant Mount Sir Sandford, for its story, while essential in any broad account of Selkirk climbing, belongs elsewhere and shifts the focus away from the House and the Glacier at the very moment when the reader has become engrossed in both. But these, however, are minor flaws, overshadowed by good research, an entertaining style, excellent history and magnificent illustrations. Samuel H. Goodhue (from American Alpine Club)
- Contents
- Introduction
- The Railroad Track
- The House
- The Tourists
- First Climbers
- Men of Science
- Alpina Americana
- Britannic Majesty
- Canadians at Last
- Some of the Best
- The Last Big Mountain
- The Rest is Silence
- Appendices
- A: The Guides
- B: Place Names in the Central Selkirks
- Bibliography
- Index
- Notes
- Signed by author - addressed to Hans Gmoser
- ISBN
- 0930410130
- Accession Number
- AC637
- Call Number
- 01.4 P98t reference
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Link to book review on American Alpine Club website
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Camera West : British Columbia on film, 1941-1965, including new information on films produced before 1941
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue12332
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- c1986
- Author
- Duffy, Dennis J
- Publisher
- Victoria : Provincial Archives of British Columbia
- Call Number
- R 06 D87
- Author
- Duffy, Dennis J
- Publisher
- Victoria : Provincial Archives of British Columbia
- Published Date
- c1986
- Physical Description
- ix, 318p. : ill., ports
- Subjects
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Bedaux Expedition
- Film making
- Hinman, Caroline
- Munday, Phyllis
- Oliver, W.J
- Round, William E
- Notes
- Supplements: Motion picture production in British Columbia : 1898-1940 / by Colin Browne
- Includes index
- ISBN
- 0771884796
- Call Number
- R 06 D87
- Collection
- Archives Library
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Relocation and design of the Bow Hut and the Elizabeth Parker Shelter
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue15240
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1986
- Author
- University of Calgary. Faculty of Environmental Design
- Publisher
- Calgary : The Faculty
- Call Number
- 13.11 A17r
- Publisher
- Calgary : The Faculty
- Published Date
- 1986
- Physical Description
- 152 pages, illustrations
- Accession Number
- 2016.8602
- Call Number
- 13.11 A17r
- Collection
- Archives Library
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Alpine huts in the Rockies, Selkirks and Purcells
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue1448
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1986
- Author
- Kariel, Herbert G
- Publisher
- Banff : Alpine Club of Canada
- Call Number
- F1090 K35 Copy 1
- F1090 K35 Copy 2
- Author
- Kariel, Herbert G
- Responsibility
- Kariel, Herb, Kariel, Pat
- Publisher
- Banff : Alpine Club of Canada
- Published Date
- 1986
- Physical Description
- 183 pages, illustrations, maps
- Subjects
- Rocky Mountains, Canada
- Selkirk Mountains
- Purcell Mountains
- Alpine Club of Canada
- Alpine Club of Canada - Huts
- Notes
- Copy 1 signed by author
- Accession Number
- AC630 is copy 2 with letter and newsclipping pasted in
- Call Number
- F1090 K35 Copy 1
- F1090 K35 Copy 2
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
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potentially offensive content.
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Relocation and design of the Bow Hut and the Elizabeth Parker Shelter
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue2715
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1986
- Author
- University of Calgary. Faculty of Environmental Design
- Publisher
- Calgary : The Faculty
- Call Number
- TD A47
- Publisher
- Calgary : The Faculty
- Published Date
- 1986
- Physical Description
- 152 pages
- Call Number
- TD A47
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
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In the western mountains : early mountaineering in British Columbia
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue13674
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1980
- Author
- Leslie, Susan. (ed.)
- Publisher
- Victoria, B.C. : Aural History Program
- Call Number
- F1089 L47
- F1089 L47 Copy 2
- Author
- Leslie, Susan. (ed.)
- Responsibility
- compiled and edited by Susan Leslie
- Publisher
- Victoria, B.C. : Aural History Program
- Published Date
- 1980
- Physical Description
- iv, 76p. : ill. , map
- Series
- Vol 8, No. 4 of Sound Heritage
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- British Columbia
- Robson, Mount
- Mountaineers, Women
- Munday, Phyllis
- McQueen, Kate
- Kain, Conrad
- Alpine Club of Canada
- British Columbia Mountaineering Club
- Accession Number
- AC598
- Call Number
- F1089 L47
- F1089 L47 Copy 2
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
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Mountain sickness : prevention, recognition & treatment
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue14798
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1980
- Author
- Hackett, Peter
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Edition
- [2d ed.]
- Call Number
- R H33 1980
- Author
- Hackett, Peter
- Edition
- [2d ed.]
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Published Date
- 1980
- Physical Description
- 75p. : ill
- Subjects
- Altitude
- Medicine
- American Alpine Club
- Notes
- Bibliography
- ISBN
- 0-930410-10-6
- Call Number
- R H33 1980
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
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- Date
- 1927
- Material
- fibre
- Catalogue Number
- 103.09.0026 a-f
- Description
- (a) a round silver medallion that hangs from a blue ribbon. The ribbon has a bar at the top that reads “Past President” and this top bar has an enamelled hanging bar that reads ”Branch”. The medal is round with a bronze maple leaf at the centre on an enamelled Union Jack. There is a wreath of bronz…
1 image
- Title
- Medal
- Date
- 1927
- Material
- fibre
- Description
- (a) a round silver medallion that hangs from a blue ribbon. The ribbon has a bar at the top that reads “Past President” and this top bar has an enamelled hanging bar that reads ”Branch”. The medal is round with a bronze maple leaf at the centre on an enamelled Union Jack. There is a wreath of bronze maple leaves around the outer edge of the medal. A band around the edge of the Union Jack reads “British Empire Service League” with a banner at the bottom that reads “Canadian Legion”. The medal is engraved on the back “Frederick Brewster, Jasper Alta no. 31 Branch 1927.(b) circular bronze pin from the Canadian Legion. The outside band is marked “British Empire Service League”. The centre of the pin has a bronze maple leaf on on an enamelled Union Jack pattern with a banner beneath that is marked “Canadian Legion”. Pin has screw-on stud back.(c) pin measuring 1.6cm wide x2.1cm, cut out in the shape of a shield with an enamelled Union Jack under a white maple leaf at the centre containing the letter “G.W.V.”. (Great War Veterans). Pin is surmounted by a silver-coloured crown.(d) pin measuring 2.3cm in diameter with a round bronze-coloured back and the words “For Service at the Front” around the edge border. The centre features an enamelled shield-shaped Union Jack with “C.E.F.” (Canadian Expeditionary Force) above the shield.(e) four brass-coloured metal pips.(f) one very simple gold-coloured round disk pin, maesuring 2.5cm in diameter with the word “Canadian Division, Lest We Forget” around the edge.
- Credit
- Gift of Pearl Evelyn Moore, Banff, 1979
- Catalogue Number
- 103.09.0026 a-f
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Windbreaker Jacket
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/artifact103.05.1045
- Date
- 1920 – 1980
- Material
- fibre; metal
- Catalogue Number
- 103.05.1045
- Description
- Blue zippered windbreaker, Lillian Gest's, straight cut ladies jacket, raglan sleeves, 2 slit pockets, 2 adjustable straps at either side of waist, 2 buttons, 1 buttonhole on cuffs. Sewn onto left front oval crest "The Alpine Club of Canada", manufacturer's cloth label attached to back of the colla…
1 image
- Title
- Windbreaker Jacket
- Date
- 1920 – 1980
- Material
- fibre; metal
- Dimensions
- 55.0 x 66.0 cm
- Description
- Blue zippered windbreaker, Lillian Gest's, straight cut ladies jacket, raglan sleeves, 2 slit pockets, 2 adjustable straps at either side of waist, 2 buttons, 1 buttonhole on cuffs. Sewn onto left front oval crest "The Alpine Club of Canada", manufacturer's cloth label attached to back of the collar "Grenfell Cloth, Made in England".
- Credit
- Gift of Lillian Gest, Philadelphia, USA, 1986
- Catalogue Number
- 103.05.1045
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- Date
- 1925 – 1955
- Material
- metal, silver; enamel
- Catalogue Number
- 103.09.0035
- Description
- An oval-shaped, sterling silver, pin with a vertically striped enamelled shield of green, light blue and white at the centre. There is a relief of a ram's head, in silver, over the shield and a silver banner beneath reading “The Alpine Club of Canada”.
1 image
- Title
- Fraternal Pin
- Date
- 1925 – 1955
- Material
- metal, silver; enamel
- Dimensions
- 2.5 x 2.0 cm
- Description
- An oval-shaped, sterling silver, pin with a vertically striped enamelled shield of green, light blue and white at the centre. There is a relief of a ram's head, in silver, over the shield and a silver banner beneath reading “The Alpine Club of Canada”.
- Credit
- Gift of Pearl Evelyn Moore, Banff, 1979
- Catalogue Number
- 103.09.0035
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