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Edward W. D. Holway : a pioneer of the Canadian Alps
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19831
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1931
- Author
- Palmer, Howard
- Publisher
- Minneapolis : University of Minnesota Press
- Call Number
- 01.4 Pa18e
1 website
- Author
- Palmer, Howard
- Responsibility
- Howard Palmer
- Publisher
- Minneapolis : University of Minnesota Press
- Published Date
- 1931
- Physical Description
- 81p. : ill., port., map
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Canada
- Selkirk Range
- Botany
- Abstract
- Mountaineers will find in this little volume the authentic account of the ascents in the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks which made the name of E. W. D. Holway so well known to the climbing fraternity not many years ago. Readers who may never have seen a mountain will enjoy the book simply as the true tale of a remarkable man whogave up commercial pursuits to become a professor of botany and an explorer of little-known Alpine ranges. The book is composed largely of Mr. Holway’s intimate letters and diaries which tell his story with an engaging touch that continually makes light of the dangers, difficulties and hardships inseparable from pioneer work. The trials and tribulations of “backpacking” are graphically portrayed by the author. The book was designed to cover, as a part of a well-rounded biography, the mountaineering experiences of its subject. We think that the task has been well done and commend the work to the attention of readers interested in the Canadian Alps. Mr. Palmer’s book, with an introduction by the late Professor J. Arthur Harris, former head of the Department of Botany at the University of Minnesota, is enriched with illustrations of many of the peaks referred to in the text. It is very well printed and attractive in format. (From American Alpine Club)
- Contents
- Preface
- A pioneer of the Canadian Alps
- Earliest climbs
- The maturity of mountaineer
- The first expedition into the Cariboos
- Conclusion
- Supplementary letters
- List of ascents and explorations by Edward W.D. Holway
- Mountaineering papers by Edward W.D. Holway
- Notes
- Annotated by Ernest Feuz
- Accession Number
- 2019.43
- Call Number
- 01.4 Pa18e
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Book review as per the American Alpine Club
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Canadian Rockies : they abound in wild animals, glaciers, and luxurious hotels
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue24918
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1947
- Publisher
- Life
- Call Number
- 02.6 L11c PAM OS
1 website
- Publisher
- Life
- Published Date
- 1947
- Subjects
- Banff National Park
- Travel
- Tourism
- Banff Springs Hotel
- Rundle Mount
- Athabaska River
- Brazeau
- Maligne Lake
- Bow River
- Canadian National Railway
- Canadian Pacific Railway
- Chateau Lake Louise
- Trails
- Mountaineering
- Columbia Icefield
- Abstract
- Pertains to the Canadian Rocky Mountains as a tourist destination in 1947 and features main geographical attractions such as the Mount Rundle, Athabaska River, Maligne Lake, Bow River in addition to the Banff Springs Hotel with map of Banff National Park and Jasper National Park.
- Notes
- In Life, June 9, 1947, pp. 68 - 76
- Accession Number
- 7889
- Call Number
- 02.6 L11c PAM OS
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Specific volume with article can be viewed online via Google Books
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A climber’s guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25079
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1953
- Author
- Thorington, J. Monroe
- Publisher
- [New York] : The American Alpine Club
- Edition
- Revised Edition, 5th printing
- Call Number
- 01.4 C61 1953
1 website
- Author
- Thorington, J. Monroe
- Responsibility
- J. Monroe Thorington
- Edition
- Revised Edition, 5th printing
- Publisher
- [New York] : The American Alpine Club
- Published Date
- 1953
- Physical Description
- xx, 323 pages
- Abstract
- A guide for mountaineers for the Canadian Rocky Mountains arranged geographically including map references.
- Contents
- Introduction Preface Part One - International Boundary to Kicking Horse Pass Part Two - Kicking Horse Pass to Yellowhead Pass Yellowhead Pass to Jarvis Pass List of authorites Principle maps of the Canadian Rocky Mountains Huts of the Alpine Club of Canada Annual Camps of the Alpine Club of Canada
- Notes
- First ed., by Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington, published in 1921.
- Accession Number
- 8062
- Call Number
- 01.4 C61 1953
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Publication information on the American Alpine Club website
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Les conquerants de l'inutile : des Alpes a l'Annapurna
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19925
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1961
- Author
- Terray, Lionel
- Publisher
- France : Gallimard
- Edition
- 1st
- Call Number
- G512 T47 L47
1 website
- Author
- Terray, Lionel
- Responsibility
- Lionel Terray
- Edition
- 1st
- Publisher
- France : Gallimard
- Published Date
- 1961
- Physical Description
- 560 p. ; 88 illus. ; maps
- Abstract
- "All these faces that appear in close-up in the news or in the press are also men. The name of Lionel Terray, one of the most famous living mountaineers, comes back periodically in conversations, because he participated in a rescue or because he helped to conquer a great world summit like Annapurna or the Makalu. In The Conquerors of the Useless , it is the whole mountain and its secrets that it reveals to us without emphasis and especially without pretension. We see how a little boy can already sense his vocation and soon to live only for the mountain; how this passion led him from the Alps to the Himalayas, from Canada to Peru. Each story of his prodigious ascensions will fascinate those who know the mountain only through the cable car. Indeed, this book that Lionel Terray wrote entirely himself using notes and stories in which he fixed his memories throughout his career, was written for them. The Conquerors of the Useless is an indispensable book for anyone interested in the heroic fate of the last survivors of the Knights race. " (from publisher's website)
- Contents
- Decouverte de la montagne
- Premieres conquetes
- La guerre des Alpes
- Je rencontre Lachenal
- La face nord de l'Eiger
- Guide de grandes courses
- L'Annapurna
- Sur les sommets du monde
- Notes
- EVE-DELACROIX PRIZE OF THE FRENCH ACADEMY 1962
- French edition signed by Lionel Terray
- Newsclipping tucked inside entitled "La mort de Lionel Terray a stufefie les membres du Ski Club"
- ISBN
- 2070262146
- Accession Number
- AC636
- Call Number
- G512 T47 L47
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Publication information on publisher's website
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The Great Glacier and its house : the story of the first center of alpinism in North America, 1885-1925
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20180
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1982
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Call Number
- 01.4 P98t reference
1 website
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Responsibility
- Willaim Lowell Putnam
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Published Date
- 1982
- Physical Description
- 23 pages : illustrations, portraits, map
- Subjects
- Glacier House
- Illecillewaet Glacier
- Selkirk Mountains
- Railway routes
- Railway stations
- Railways
- Tourism
- Mountaineering
- American Alpine Club
- History
- Abstract
- he hotel is gone and the passenger trains, now rarely on time, go by only once daily. The Great Glacier has all but vanished. The motor traffic on the fast, modern highway sweeps past in ignorance that this deep, half-forgotten, Illecillewaet valley of the Selkirk Mountains, with its dark forests and glittering summits, was the cradle of professional North American mountaineering and, for several decades, the principal Canadian attraction for climbers from three continents. Surely the time has long since passed for someone to tell the story of the early days when geologists, scientists, alpinists, guides, tourists and more than a few of our continent’s empire builders stopped in Glacier, British Columbia to explore, study, climb, earn a modest living, admire the scenery or just rest from their labors. It is most appropriate that William L. Putnam, one of America’s outstanding experts on the Selkirks, should have undertaken the task of writing a history of the area. It is even more appropriate that this history should have been published by The American Alpine Club, whose first president, Professor Charles E. Fay, spent many sunny days over several seasons scaling the region’s unclimbed summits and, as we learn from the text, many rainy weeks in the Old Glacier House where at idle moments he amused himself by analyzing the comments in the hotel’s guest register. The author has labored hard and gone to great lengths to obtain original source material and to check facts. As might be expected, his story begins with the construction of the Canadian Pacific track through Roger’s Pass; without it, the central Selkirks and the outstanding Matterhorn-like crest of Mount Sir Donald would no doubt still be little known and less visited. The absence of dining cars on the early transcontinental express trains, plus the superb view of what was then the awesome Illecillewaet Glacier, led to the building of a small restaurant-hotel by the track some five miles west of the pass. In time that hotel grew to become the Canadian Pacific’s western show-piece. Tourists, scientists, mountaineers and guides arrived in growing numbers. The peaks were measured and climbed, trails were built, caves explored and an electric generator was constructed to light the premises. A pet bear was even provided on the grounds for the entertainment of guests. Then, slowly, the Great Glacier retreated, the railroad was modernized and rerouted through a five-mile tunnel some distance from the hotel, tourists and climbers alike went off to war on the battlefields of France, and the Canadian Pacific shifted its emphasis to its latter-day attraction at Lake Louise in the nearby Rockies. The old hotel was closed, then torn down, and the valley and its glacier almost forgotten. Such is the skeleton of Putnam’s story. But it is far more. Putnam has labored industriously. He has unearthed, and quoted at length, the original on-the-spot observations of the early visitors in the decades between 1890 and 1920. He has recovered ancient photographs, many excellent, to illustrate the stories and anecdotes he recounts. Thanks to his labor of love, those of us who are familiar only with modern mountaineering now have the opportunity to learn what climbing was like in the good old days around the turn of the century. Despite its deceptive scrapbook style, the work is scholarly. It is also highly nostalgic. The author is at his best with the history of the early climbing. One wishes he had personally said more and quoted less—but, then, many of the quotations are memorable. He might also have omitted, or at least modified, the chapter on distant Mount Sir Sandford, for its story, while essential in any broad account of Selkirk climbing, belongs elsewhere and shifts the focus away from the House and the Glacier at the very moment when the reader has become engrossed in both. But these, however, are minor flaws, overshadowed by good research, an entertaining style, excellent history and magnificent illustrations. Samuel H. Goodhue (from American Alpine Club)
- Contents
- Introduction
- The Railroad Track
- The House
- The Tourists
- First Climbers
- Men of Science
- Alpina Americana
- Britannic Majesty
- Canadians at Last
- Some of the Best
- The Last Big Mountain
- The Rest is Silence
- Appendices
- A: The Guides
- B: Place Names in the Central Selkirks
- Bibliography
- Index
- Notes
- Signed by author - addressed to Hans Gmoser
- ISBN
- 0930410130
- Accession Number
- AC637
- Call Number
- 01.4 P98t reference
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Link to book review on American Alpine Club website
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Alpes d'ailleurs : Mon chalet suisse au Canada
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue24951
- Medium
- Library - Periodical
- Published Date
- 1999
- Author
- Vulliamy, Dominique
- Publisher
- L'alpe
- Call Number
- P
1 website
- Author
- Vulliamy, Dominique
- Responsibility
- Dominique Vulliamy
- Publisher
- L'alpe
- Published Date
- 1999
- Medium
- Library - Periodical
- Abstract
- Pertains to the Swiss Guides in the Canadian Rockies
- Notes
- In L'Alpe 04 villegiatures, page 92-97
- Call Number
- P
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Link to online publication including Swiss Guide article
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A Century of American alpinism, 2002
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20146
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2002
- Author
- Fay, Charles Ernest
- Bent, Allen Herbert
- Palmer, Howard
- Thorington, James Monroe
- Kauffman, Andrew John
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Publisher
- Boulder, CO : American Alpine Club,
- Call Number
- G505 F39 C46
1 website
- Author
- Fay, Charles Ernest
- Bent, Allen Herbert
- Palmer, Howard
- Thorington, James Monroe
- Kauffman, Andrew John
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Responsibility
- Charles Earnest Fay, Allen Herbert Bent, Howard Palmer, James Monroe Thorington, Andrew John Kauffman, William Lowell Putnam
- Publisher
- Boulder, CO : American Alpine Club,
- Published Date
- 2002
- Physical Description
- ix, 196 pages, xxxii pages of plates : illustrations, portraits
- Subjects
- American Alpine Club
- History
- Mountaineering
- Clubs
- Abstract
- Pertains to a century of American alpinism from 1902 to 2002
- Contents
- Forward
- Preface
- I Earliest American Mountaineers
- II Pacific Crests
- III Later and Farther North
- IV Tidewater Alaska
- V Early Amerian Ascents in the Alps
- VI Appalachian Mountain Club Roots
- VII The Social Aspect of Alpinism
- VIII To the Top of the Continent
- IX Other Mountain Clubs of America
- X Momentous Events
- XI Afield and at War
- XII Changing Mores
- XIII Moving West
- XIV Not All Sweetness and Light
- XV The Study of Mountain Elevations
- XVI Exclusiveness or Inclusiveness
- XVII Changing Faces
- Appendices
- Index
- Accession Number
- AC637
- Call Number
- G505 F39 C46
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- American Alpine Club link to book
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A tale of two passes : an inquiry into certain alpine literature
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20167
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2008
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Publisher
- Flagstaff, Arizona : Light Technology
- Co-published by American Alpine Club, Alpine Club of Canada and International Association of Alpine Societies
- Call Number
- 08 P98 T14
1 website
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Responsibility
- William L. Putnam
- Publisher
- Flagstaff, Arizona : Light Technology
- Co-published by American Alpine Club, Alpine Club of Canada and International Association of Alpine Societies
- Published Date
- 2008
- Physical Description
- i, 219 pages : illustrations (chiefly color), maps
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Alps
- Alps, Italian
- History
- Passes
- Literature
- Abstract
- Written by AAC Honorary President William L Putnam, "this text is devoted to that pair of passes: the Mont Cenis and the Great Saint Bernard. Both of these mountain crossings appear to have been known and used from pre-Roman times. Both were prominently and frequently used by the Romans inestablishing and maintaining their empire; both were long adorned with hospice/shelters near their crests; and both have been by-passed by modern tunnels but are still crossed by paved highways. Despite these similiarites, their historic prominence derives from distinctly different events and factors. Herein lies the histories of these passes and stories of many travelers amongst the Alps - told as much as possible in their own words." ( from book jacket)
- Contents
- Introduction
- Part I:
- Chapter I : Early Alpine Passages
- Chapter II : The Terrain
- Part II:
- Chapter III : Hannibal's Crossing
- Chater IV : The Argument
- Chapter V : The Railway
- Part III:
- Chater VI : The Other Route of the Ancients
- Chapter VII : Hazards of the Mountain
- Chapter VIII : The Great Saint Bernard in Later Literature
- Chapter IX : The Early Alpinists
- Chapter X : The Largest Crossing
- Chapter XI : Popes and Passes
- Index
- Notes
- Signed by author - addressed to Margaret Gmoser - dated October 19th, 2008
- ISBN
- 1-891824-66-X
- Accession Number
- AC637
- Call Number
- 08 P98 T14
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Book available through The American Alpine Club
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Fisher Peak chronicles : real stories from a tall mountain -- the legacy of Mount Fisher
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19889
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2014
- Author
- Powell, Keith G.
- Publisher
- Cranbrook, British Columbia : Wild Horse Creek Press
- Call Number
- 01.4 P87f
1 website
- Author
- Powell, Keith G.
- Responsibility
- Keith G. Powell
- Publisher
- Cranbrook, British Columbia : Wild Horse Creek Press
- Published Date
- 2014
- Physical Description
- 230 pages : illustrations, maps ; 23 cm
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Canadian Rockies
- History-Canada
- Abstract
- One of the most photographed landmarks in the Kootenay region, Mount Fisher holds the fascination of locals and visitors with its majestic vista and relatively easy access. It is our own little Mt. Everest, and scaling it has become a rite-of-passage for many outdoor enthusiasts from near and far. Fisher Peak Chronicles captures the heritage, culture and legacy of Mount Fisher through a series of real adventure stories from contributors and historical sources.
- Contents
- Introduction: Fisher Peak is everyone's own little Mount Everest (pg. 7)
- Chapter 1 - Living in the shadow of Fisher Peak - the missing chapter - 1883 (pg. 12)
- Chapter 2 - Early Explorations: David Thompson - 1807 (pg. 18)
- Chapter 3: Young John W. Sullivan Spies Mount Fisher from a distance - 1859 (pg. 22)
- Chapter 4: More Wild Horse discoveries -1865 (pg. 26)
- Chapter 5: The mountaineering Account of T.G. Longstaff in the Rockies - 1911 (pg. 30)
- Chapter 6: No man has reached the summit - 1899 (pg. 40)
- Chapter 7: Aurthur Nicol and George Lum credited with first ascent of Mount Fisher - 1910 (pg. 44)
- Chapter 8: Scaling Mount Fisher becomes a popular pastime - 1930's (pg. 48)
- Chapter 9: Fisher Peak scaled by amateur climbers - 1934 (pg. 54)
- Chapter 10: Fisher Peak again tamed by climbers - 1934 (pg. 60)
- Chapter 11: Fisher Peak visited by more parties - 1936 (pg. 66)
- Chapter 12: The Ryckmans - a pioneer family of the East Kootenay (pg. 70)
- Chapter 13: Mother's Day on the mountain -1967 (pg. 76)
- Chapter 14: Mount Fisher log book entries 1981 - 1983 (pg. 84)
- Chapter 15: Hiking Trails of the East Kootenay - Mount Fisher by Ian Bennett - 1982 (pg. 118)
- Chapter 16: More Mount Fisher adventures and log book entries -1994 and 1999 (pg. 122)
- Chapter 17: How I survived my solo climb and a broken leg - 2000 (pg. 140)
- Chapter 18: Mount Fisher, a pinnacle in a Hall of Fame hockey career - 2000 (pg. 148)
- Chapter 19: A mother's anguish - 2001 (pg. 154)
- Chapter 20: I still pine for my CBC coffee mug - 2002 (pg. 162)
- Chapter 21: Fond memories of Nak Nakahara and Mount Fisher - 2008 (pg. 166)
- Chapter 22: Fisher Peak - the first peak in our next stage of life - 2009 (pg. 170)
- Chapter 23: Some final thoughts on climbing Mount Fisher - 2012 (pg. 174)
- Chapter 24: Remember the risks of climbing Mount Fisher - 2012 (pg. 178)
- Chapter 25: Trial by vertigo by Dan Mills - 2013 (pg. 184)
- Chapter 26: Question and answers with Bruce WIlliams - 2013 (pg. 188)
- Chapter 27: Chasing the light on Fisher Peak - by Janice Strong 2013 (pg. 192)
- Chapter 28: Meet Danny Kerr, a true man of the mountains - 2013 (pg. 196)
- Chapter 29: Bob O'Brien - legend of Mount Fisher - 2011 (pg. 200)
- Chapter 30: Elvin Townsend - a man on the move - 2013 (pg. 206)
- Epilogue (pg. 210)
- Bibliography (pg. 214)
- Special Thank you (pg. 215)
- Mount Fisher photos (pg. 216-223)
- Personal climbing record (pg. 224-228)
- Notes
- The front inside cover has been annotated by the author. Annotation reads, "Keith G. Powell"
- ISBN
- 9780981214634
- Accession Number
- 2019.62
- Call Number
- 01.4 P87f
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- The URL is linked to the website for which the abstract has been taken from
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Sport climbs in the Canadian Rockies
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19898
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2016
- Author
- Martin, John
- Jones, Jon
- Publisher
- Surrey, B.C. : Rocky Mountain Books
- Edition
- 7th ed.
- Call Number
- F1077 M37 S66
1 website
- Author
- Martin, John
- Jones, Jon
- Edition
- 7th ed.
- Publisher
- Surrey, B.C. : Rocky Mountain Books
- Published Date
- 2016
- Physical Description
- 560 p. : ill., maps, ports
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Guidebook
- Canadian Rockies
- Abstract
- "Originally published in 1995, Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies continues to be the quintessential guidebook that both local and visiting climbers reach for when travelling to Western Canada. Featuring over 23,000 routes located throughout the Bow Valley, including climbs at Banff, Canmore, Lake Louise, Kananaskis Country and the Ghost River region, this comprehensive new edition features 7 new areas, 500 new routes, the latest updates, full-colour photos, maps and over 300 marked topos. All routes are completely indexed, including first ascent information." - from back cover
- Contents
- Introduction
- Key to main climbing areas
- Quaite Valley
- Acephale
- Heart Creek
- McGillivray Slabs
- Ha Ling Peak
- Grassi Lakes
- Old Goat Crag
- Whiteman Crag
- Kanga Crag and Eeor
- Tunnel Mountain
- Spray Slabs
- Rundle Ridge
- Raven Crag
- Sunshine Rock
- Brewster Crag
- Bighorn Crag
- Mount Bourgeau
- Lake Louise
- Paradise Wall
- Grand Sentinel
- Lost Lemon Crag
- Silver City
- Guides Rock
- Cascadia
- Coral Crag
- Black Feather Canyon
- Carrot Creek
- The Stoneworks
- Couger Canyon
- Echo Canyon
- Bataan
- Grotto Canyon
- Steve Canyon
- Kid Goat and Nanny Goat
- The Ghose
- Barrier Mountain
- Mount Baldy Crag
- Porcupine Creek
- Wasootch Slabs
- Cowbell Crag
- Burstall Slabs
- Moose Mountain (Canyon Creek)
- Prairie Creek
- Half Moon Crag
- The White Buddha
- Index showing first ascents
- ISBN
- 9781771601009
- Accession Number
- AC634
- Call Number
- F1077 M37 S66
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Publishers website
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