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Alpenglow : the finest climbs on the 4000m peaks of the Alps
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue25035
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2019
- Author
- Tibbetts, Ben
- Publisher
- [Hereford] : Ben Tibbetts
- Call Number
- DQ841 A46 T53 O.S.
1 website
- Author
- Tibbetts, Ben
- Publisher
- [Hereford] : Ben Tibbetts
- Published Date
- 2019
- Physical Description
- 320 pages : illustrations (color)
- Subjects
- Photography
- Alps
- Mountaineering
- Switzerland
- Italy
- France
- Art
- Abstract
- Is an inspiring book of photographs, stories and drawings describing The Finest Climbs on the 4000m Peaks of the Alps (from Ben Tibbetts website)
- Contents
- Introduction
- Practicalities
- Endnotes
- Bernina Alps
- Bernese Alps
- Pennine Alps
- Mont Blanc Massif
- Gran Paradiso
- Ecrins
- Notes
- Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival finalist for Mountain Image
- Photographs, drawings and text by Ben Tibbetts
- ISBN
- 9781916123106
- Accession Number
- AC639
- Call Number
- DQ841 A46 T53 O.S.
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Author's website
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A Century of American alpinism, 2002
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20146
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2002
- Author
- Fay, Charles Ernest
- Bent, Allen Herbert
- Palmer, Howard
- Thorington, James Monroe
- Kauffman, Andrew John
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Publisher
- Boulder, CO : American Alpine Club,
- Call Number
- G505 F39 C46
1 website
- Author
- Fay, Charles Ernest
- Bent, Allen Herbert
- Palmer, Howard
- Thorington, James Monroe
- Kauffman, Andrew John
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Responsibility
- Charles Earnest Fay, Allen Herbert Bent, Howard Palmer, James Monroe Thorington, Andrew John Kauffman, William Lowell Putnam
- Publisher
- Boulder, CO : American Alpine Club,
- Published Date
- 2002
- Physical Description
- ix, 196 pages, xxxii pages of plates : illustrations, portraits
- Subjects
- American Alpine Club
- History
- Mountaineering
- Clubs
- Abstract
- Pertains to a century of American alpinism from 1902 to 2002
- Contents
- Forward
- Preface
- I Earliest American Mountaineers
- II Pacific Crests
- III Later and Farther North
- IV Tidewater Alaska
- V Early Amerian Ascents in the Alps
- VI Appalachian Mountain Club Roots
- VII The Social Aspect of Alpinism
- VIII To the Top of the Continent
- IX Other Mountain Clubs of America
- X Momentous Events
- XI Afield and at War
- XII Changing Mores
- XIII Moving West
- XIV Not All Sweetness and Light
- XV The Study of Mountain Elevations
- XVI Exclusiveness or Inclusiveness
- XVII Changing Faces
- Appendices
- Index
- Accession Number
- AC637
- Call Number
- G505 F39 C46
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- American Alpine Club link to book
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A century of antics, epics & escapades : the Varsity Outdoor Club, 1917-2017
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19924
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2017
- Author
- Varsity Outdoor Club
- Publisher
- Vancouver, B.C. ; University of British Columbia's Varsity Outdoor Club
- Call Number
- G505 V37 A58
1 website
- Author
- Varsity Outdoor Club
- Responsibility
- Varsity Outdoor Club
- Publisher
- Vancouver, B.C. ; University of British Columbia's Varsity Outdoor Club
- Published Date
- 2017
- Physical Description
- 252 p. : illus. (colour)
- Abstract
- The Varsity Outdoor Club has turned 100. To celebrate the rich history of the clubs wilderness (mis-)adventures we’ve independently published the best of our collective stories from the last century into one beautiful coffee table book. The VOC has been intimately tied with the history of hiking, skiing, mountaineering and exploration of Southwestern British Columbia and beyond. From building a wooden cabin on the untamed wilds of Grouse Mountain (in the 1920s), to the first ski crossing of the now ultra-classic, “Neve Traverse” in Garibaldi Park, to modern adventures pushing how far and how fast we can go. Each chapter explores the decades from 1917 to 2017, combining primary written accounts, stunning photos and oral histories of the members into a larger unfolding narrative of the ever-evolving relationship between adventurers and nature. (from Varsity Outdoor Club website)
- Contents
- Foreward
- A history older than ours
- Table of contents
- Timeline
- 1917-1939 - Maps: VOC areas & traverses over time
- 1940s - Decades of Garibaldi Park
- 1950s - Decades of Loganeering
- 1960s - Buildering; decades of socializing
- 1970s - Conservation and advocacy in the VOC; Decades of transportation
- 1980s - Women in the VOC; decades of adventure
- 1900s
- Huts
- Nerdiness in the VOC; Maps: selection of traverses since 2000s & climbing pilgrimages
- 2000s
- VOC portrait: Roland Burton
- VOC marriage proposals
- 2010s
- Beyond 2017
- Acknowledgements
- A note on sources
- Appendix: executive lists
- ISBN
- 9781775043003
- Accession Number
- AC635
- Call Number
- G505 V37 A58
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Varsity Outdoor Club website - publication information
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Les conquerants de l'inutile : des Alpes a l'Annapurna
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue19925
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1961
- Author
- Terray, Lionel
- Publisher
- France : Gallimard
- Edition
- 1st
- Call Number
- G512 T47 L47
1 website
- Author
- Terray, Lionel
- Responsibility
- Lionel Terray
- Edition
- 1st
- Publisher
- France : Gallimard
- Published Date
- 1961
- Physical Description
- 560 p. ; 88 illus. ; maps
- Abstract
- "All these faces that appear in close-up in the news or in the press are also men. The name of Lionel Terray, one of the most famous living mountaineers, comes back periodically in conversations, because he participated in a rescue or because he helped to conquer a great world summit like Annapurna or the Makalu. In The Conquerors of the Useless , it is the whole mountain and its secrets that it reveals to us without emphasis and especially without pretension. We see how a little boy can already sense his vocation and soon to live only for the mountain; how this passion led him from the Alps to the Himalayas, from Canada to Peru. Each story of his prodigious ascensions will fascinate those who know the mountain only through the cable car. Indeed, this book that Lionel Terray wrote entirely himself using notes and stories in which he fixed his memories throughout his career, was written for them. The Conquerors of the Useless is an indispensable book for anyone interested in the heroic fate of the last survivors of the Knights race. " (from publisher's website)
- Contents
- Decouverte de la montagne
- Premieres conquetes
- La guerre des Alpes
- Je rencontre Lachenal
- La face nord de l'Eiger
- Guide de grandes courses
- L'Annapurna
- Sur les sommets du monde
- Notes
- EVE-DELACROIX PRIZE OF THE FRENCH ACADEMY 1962
- French edition signed by Lionel Terray
- Newsclipping tucked inside entitled "La mort de Lionel Terray a stufefie les membres du Ski Club"
- ISBN
- 2070262146
- Accession Number
- AC636
- Call Number
- G512 T47 L47
- Collection
- Alpine Club of Canada Library
- URL Notes
- Publication information on publisher's website
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The Great Glacier and its house : the story of the first center of alpinism in North America, 1885-1925
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20180
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 1982
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Call Number
- 01.4 P98t reference
1 website
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Responsibility
- Willaim Lowell Putnam
- Publisher
- New York : American Alpine Club
- Published Date
- 1982
- Physical Description
- 23 pages : illustrations, portraits, map
- Subjects
- Glacier House
- Illecillewaet Glacier
- Selkirk Mountains
- Railway routes
- Railway stations
- Railways
- Tourism
- Mountaineering
- American Alpine Club
- History
- Abstract
- he hotel is gone and the passenger trains, now rarely on time, go by only once daily. The Great Glacier has all but vanished. The motor traffic on the fast, modern highway sweeps past in ignorance that this deep, half-forgotten, Illecillewaet valley of the Selkirk Mountains, with its dark forests and glittering summits, was the cradle of professional North American mountaineering and, for several decades, the principal Canadian attraction for climbers from three continents. Surely the time has long since passed for someone to tell the story of the early days when geologists, scientists, alpinists, guides, tourists and more than a few of our continent’s empire builders stopped in Glacier, British Columbia to explore, study, climb, earn a modest living, admire the scenery or just rest from their labors. It is most appropriate that William L. Putnam, one of America’s outstanding experts on the Selkirks, should have undertaken the task of writing a history of the area. It is even more appropriate that this history should have been published by The American Alpine Club, whose first president, Professor Charles E. Fay, spent many sunny days over several seasons scaling the region’s unclimbed summits and, as we learn from the text, many rainy weeks in the Old Glacier House where at idle moments he amused himself by analyzing the comments in the hotel’s guest register. The author has labored hard and gone to great lengths to obtain original source material and to check facts. As might be expected, his story begins with the construction of the Canadian Pacific track through Roger’s Pass; without it, the central Selkirks and the outstanding Matterhorn-like crest of Mount Sir Donald would no doubt still be little known and less visited. The absence of dining cars on the early transcontinental express trains, plus the superb view of what was then the awesome Illecillewaet Glacier, led to the building of a small restaurant-hotel by the track some five miles west of the pass. In time that hotel grew to become the Canadian Pacific’s western show-piece. Tourists, scientists, mountaineers and guides arrived in growing numbers. The peaks were measured and climbed, trails were built, caves explored and an electric generator was constructed to light the premises. A pet bear was even provided on the grounds for the entertainment of guests. Then, slowly, the Great Glacier retreated, the railroad was modernized and rerouted through a five-mile tunnel some distance from the hotel, tourists and climbers alike went off to war on the battlefields of France, and the Canadian Pacific shifted its emphasis to its latter-day attraction at Lake Louise in the nearby Rockies. The old hotel was closed, then torn down, and the valley and its glacier almost forgotten. Such is the skeleton of Putnam’s story. But it is far more. Putnam has labored industriously. He has unearthed, and quoted at length, the original on-the-spot observations of the early visitors in the decades between 1890 and 1920. He has recovered ancient photographs, many excellent, to illustrate the stories and anecdotes he recounts. Thanks to his labor of love, those of us who are familiar only with modern mountaineering now have the opportunity to learn what climbing was like in the good old days around the turn of the century. Despite its deceptive scrapbook style, the work is scholarly. It is also highly nostalgic. The author is at his best with the history of the early climbing. One wishes he had personally said more and quoted less—but, then, many of the quotations are memorable. He might also have omitted, or at least modified, the chapter on distant Mount Sir Sandford, for its story, while essential in any broad account of Selkirk climbing, belongs elsewhere and shifts the focus away from the House and the Glacier at the very moment when the reader has become engrossed in both. But these, however, are minor flaws, overshadowed by good research, an entertaining style, excellent history and magnificent illustrations. Samuel H. Goodhue (from American Alpine Club)
- Contents
- Introduction
- The Railroad Track
- The House
- The Tourists
- First Climbers
- Men of Science
- Alpina Americana
- Britannic Majesty
- Canadians at Last
- Some of the Best
- The Last Big Mountain
- The Rest is Silence
- Appendices
- A: The Guides
- B: Place Names in the Central Selkirks
- Bibliography
- Index
- Notes
- Signed by author - addressed to Hans Gmoser
- ISBN
- 0930410130
- Accession Number
- AC637
- Call Number
- 01.4 P98t reference
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Link to book review on American Alpine Club website
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Hobnails and hemp rope
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue24993
- Medium
- Library - Moving image (includes film and digital video - published)
- Author
- Grandsen, Greg (director)
- Call Number
- 06.3 H65 DVD
1 website
- Author
- Grandsen, Greg (director)
- Responsibility
- Greg Grandsen (director)
- Bryan Thompson
- Robert Le Blanc
- Garry Reiss
- Natalia Danalanchi
- David Arcus (music)
- Ivan Petrov (photography)
- David Ray (photography)
- Small Leaks Sink Ships (music)
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Mountaineers
- Kain, Conrad
- Films
- Film making
- History
- Bugaboos
- Purcell Mountains
- Purcell Range
- Abstract
- In 1916 Conrad Kain cemented his reputation as one of the greatest mountaineers of his era by reaching the summit of Bugaboo Spire in BC's Purcell Mountains, considered one of the most difficult climbs at the time. One hundred years later, four Canadian mountaineers set out to re-enact Kain's extraordinary feat, climbing the 3,204m Bugaboo Spire with the same equipment that was used in 1916 - and bringing to life one of the great outdoor adventures of the Canadian frontier. The film "Hobnails and Hemp Rope" tells their story (from DVD)
- Notes
- Sponsor / Partnership with the Alpine Club of Canada and the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies
- Contains archival materials from the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies
- Official Selection for the Fernie Mountain Film Festival 2017
- Best Director at the Moscow Film Festival "Vertical" 2017
- Accession Number
- 2019.105
- Call Number
- 06.3 H65 DVD
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Article about project and film on Crowfoot Media
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A tale of two passes : an inquiry into certain alpine literature
https://archives.whyte.org/en/permalink/catalogue20167
- Medium
- Library - Book (including soft-cover and pamphlets)
- Published Date
- 2008
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Publisher
- Flagstaff, Arizona : Light Technology
- Co-published by American Alpine Club, Alpine Club of Canada and International Association of Alpine Societies
- Call Number
- 08 P98 T14
1 website
- Author
- Putnam, William Lowell
- Responsibility
- William L. Putnam
- Publisher
- Flagstaff, Arizona : Light Technology
- Co-published by American Alpine Club, Alpine Club of Canada and International Association of Alpine Societies
- Published Date
- 2008
- Physical Description
- i, 219 pages : illustrations (chiefly color), maps
- Subjects
- Mountaineering
- Alps
- Alps, Italian
- History
- Passes
- Literature
- Abstract
- Written by AAC Honorary President William L Putnam, "this text is devoted to that pair of passes: the Mont Cenis and the Great Saint Bernard. Both of these mountain crossings appear to have been known and used from pre-Roman times. Both were prominently and frequently used by the Romans inestablishing and maintaining their empire; both were long adorned with hospice/shelters near their crests; and both have been by-passed by modern tunnels but are still crossed by paved highways. Despite these similiarites, their historic prominence derives from distinctly different events and factors. Herein lies the histories of these passes and stories of many travelers amongst the Alps - told as much as possible in their own words." ( from book jacket)
- Contents
- Introduction
- Part I:
- Chapter I : Early Alpine Passages
- Chapter II : The Terrain
- Part II:
- Chapter III : Hannibal's Crossing
- Chater IV : The Argument
- Chapter V : The Railway
- Part III:
- Chater VI : The Other Route of the Ancients
- Chapter VII : Hazards of the Mountain
- Chapter VIII : The Great Saint Bernard in Later Literature
- Chapter IX : The Early Alpinists
- Chapter X : The Largest Crossing
- Chapter XI : Popes and Passes
- Index
- Notes
- Signed by author - addressed to Margaret Gmoser - dated October 19th, 2008
- ISBN
- 1-891824-66-X
- Accession Number
- AC637
- Call Number
- 08 P98 T14
- Collection
- Archives Library
- URL Notes
- Book available through The American Alpine Club
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