Fonds pertains to 3 photograph prints of members of the St. Elias expedition in the Yukon, a large-format black and white print of a mountain range [possibly including St. Elias], 11 typed letters to Wright from W.E. (Smoke) Blanchard dated January-May 1965 discussing the expedition, 2 typed one-pa…
1 cm of textual records (18 pages ; 21.6 x 27.9 cm) ; 4 photographs : b&w and col. ; 29.2 x 21.8 cm or smaller
History / Biographical
Dr. Gerald Wright (1917-2007) grew up in Brecon, South Wales, and studied medicine in Wales and London, England, throughout the 1940s. He served in the British Army in the Royal Army Medical Corps from 1942-1946 in North Africa and Italy.
In 1951 Wright moved to Lethbridge, Alberta, due to its close proximity to the Canadian Rockies, where he maintained a general practice as a member of the Hunt Clinic. He went on to serve as Chief of Medicine at St. Michael's Hospital and the Lethbridge Municipal Hospital until his retirement in 1988.
Shortly after arriving in Canada he became a member of the Alpine Club of Canada and attended many annual camps, often as camp doctor. He also participated in ACC expeditions to Mount St. Elias (1967, unsuccessful), Mount Alberta (1967, successful as part of the Alberta Team), and Mt. Waddington (1969). He also successfully summited Mt. Robson on his third attempt at the mountain. Wright hiked extensively throughout Nepal, Switzerland, South America, and New Zealand in addtion to the Rockies.
He was also a member of the Skyline Trail Hikers of the Canadian Rockies and was a founding member of the Castle-Crown Wilderness Coalition, where he served on the Board of Directors, helping to plan and lead many annual hiking trips.
Scope & Content
Fonds pertains to 3 photograph prints of members of the St. Elias expedition in the Yukon, a large-format black and white print of a mountain range [possibly including St. Elias], 11 typed letters to Wright from W.E. (Smoke) Blanchard dated January-May 1965 discussing the expedition, 2 typed one-page summaries of the attempt on the mountain [one written by Blanchard and includes a hand-drawn map of the area around the mountain], a Xerox copy of a letter written on University of Oregon Medical School letterhead listing the members of the St. Elias party and recommended medical tests to have completed prior to the expedition, a two-page typed list of gear & equipment, and a hand-written list of expedition members and the University of Oregon Medical School doctor and their contact information.
Fonds consists of three framed oversized photograph prints: one print in a black frame depicting Murray Toft near Barbette Glacier [ca.1980-1990]; one print in a silver frame depicting a high-altitude tent used during the Everest '82 Expedition; and one print in a dark grey frame depicting two unid…
3 oversized framed photographs : b&w and col. ; 56 x 75 cm or smaller -- 1 annotated card
Scope & Content
Fonds consists of three framed oversized photograph prints: one print in a black frame depicting Murray Toft near Barbette Glacier [ca.1980-1990]; one print in a silver frame depicting a high-altitude tent used during the Everest '82 Expedition; and one print in a dark grey frame depicting two unidentified climbers near Pigeon Spire, possibly taken by Glen Boles, which is accompanied by a greeting card [ca.1995] annotated with details related to the photograph.
Fonds consists of records pertaining to the Calgary Mountain Club. Fonds includes two volumes of club meeting minutes, 1960-1987; one financial ledger book, 1964-1980; bound volume containing the club's constitution, route descriptions, photographs, and related content from various expeditions; one…
7 bound volumes -- two mounted b&w prints : 28 x 35 cm -- 3 cm textual records
History / Biographical
The Calgary Mountain Club (CMC) is Calgary's oldest mountaineering organization that is dedicated specifically to the furtherance of hard climbing objectives on significant peaks. These peaks are predominantly in the Canadian Rockies, but in many cases extend to significant mountain ranges throughout North America and Europe.
The CMC was founded in 1960 and is still an active club as of 2023. Chic Scott's publication, "History of the Calgary Mountain Club" (1988) provides a detailed summary of the club's early history.
Scope & Content
Fonds consists of records pertaining to the Calgary Mountain Club. Fonds includes two volumes of club meeting minutes, 1960-1987; one financial ledger book, 1964-1980; bound volume containing the club's constitution, route descriptions, photographs, and related content from various expeditions; one copy of Chic Scott's publication, "History of the Calgary Mountain Club" (1988); registers for Archie Simpson Hut (1972-1974) and Castle Mountain Hut (1967-1984); two mounted black & white prints depicting the Graham Cooper Hut and Black Rock Needle; memorial booklet for Archie Simpson; and one folder of loose textual records including correspondence, pamphlets, administrative documents, and related materials.
Fonds include three sous-fonds related to the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition :
M562 - Textual;
V787 - Visual;
S56 - Sound
M562 contains five series:
A. Expedition Planning and Logistics;
B. General;
C. Correspondence;
D. Periodicals;
E. Newspaper Clippings;
F. Posters
V787 contains four s…
Peter Spear (April 1, 1940 - ) was a teacher, administrator, mountain ski patroller at the Lake Louise Ski Area, member of the Canadian Ski Patrol System, and base camp manager for the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition based out of Calgary, Alberta.
Scope & Content
Fonds include three sous-fonds related to the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition :
M562 - Textual;
V787 - Visual;
S56 - Sound
M562 contains five series:
A. Expedition Planning and Logistics;
B. General;
C. Correspondence;
D. Periodicals;
E. Newspaper Clippings;
F. Posters
V787 contains four series:
A. Photographs;
B. Oversize Photographs;
C. Transparencies;
D. Negatives
S56 contains 34 audio cassettes
Notes
There are artefacts in the heritage collection associated with this fonds - flags, shirts, logos, pins, business cards, luggage tags etc.
Fonds include three sous-fonds related to the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition :
M563 - Textual;
V788- Visual;
S57 - Sound
M563 contains ten series: A. Manuals B. Contracts C. Diaries D. Maps E. Reports F. Correspondence G. Periodicals H. Clippings I. Collected Materials O.S. J. Scrapbooks
…
46 photographs : 38 prints ; b&w, 8 prints ; colour, 47 negatives ; b&w, 1 transparency ; colour, 1 album (42 photographs ; colour)
4 film reels ; 16 mm
2 videocassettes ; Ampex
7 videocassettes
10 DVDs
1 audio reel ; master
1 audio cassette
History / Biographical
John Amatt (May 19, 1945 - ) was an educator, expedition leader, public speaker, and founder of One Step Beyond WorldWide. He was a climber, business manager, spokesman and press liason for the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition.
Scope & Content
Fonds include three sous-fonds related to the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition :
M563 - Textual;
V788- Visual;
S57 - Sound
M563 contains ten series:
A. Manuals
B. Contracts
C. Diaries
D. Maps
E. Reports
F. Correspondence
G. Periodicals
H. Clippings
I. Collected Materials O.S.
J. Scrapbooks
V788 contains six series:
A. Photographs
B. Negatives
C. Transparencies
D. Films
E. Albums
F. Framed
S57 contains two series:
A. Audio cassettes
B. Audio reel
Notes
There are artefacts in the heritage collection associated with this fonds - logos and pins
S57 contains two series:
A. Audio cassette entitled "Everest the Ultimate Challenge - 1922-1982 - A Stereo Sound History of 60 Years of Struggle to Climb the Worlds Highest Mountain" (unopened)
B. Audio reel entitled "Master Tape for Everest Music" - Ampex Precision Magnetic Tape
John Amatt (May 19, 1945 - ) was an educator, expedition leader, public speaker, and founder of One Step Beyond WorldWide. He was a climber, business manager, spokesman and press liason for the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition.
Scope & Content
S57 contains two series:
A. Audio cassette entitled "Everest the Ultimate Challenge - 1922-1982 - A Stereo Sound History of 60 Years of Struggle to Climb the Worlds Highest Mountain" (unopened)
B. Audio reel entitled "Master Tape for Everest Music" - Ampex Precision Magnetic Tape
Notes
There are artefacts in the heritage collection associated with this fonds - logos and pins
In 1923, a reporter asked George Mallory why he wanted to summit Mount Everest. "Because it's there." Today the question "why do this?" is included in nearly every mountaineering story of interview. Meanwhile, interest in climbing is steadily on the rise, from commerical mountaineering and climbing walls in university gyms to corporate workplaces to the flood of spectacular climbing imagery in advertising, cinema, and social media. [...] Taking the degradation of Everest and the success of Free Solo as its starting point, Mountains and Desire chases after what remains of this pursuit -- marred by its colonial history, coopted by national chauvinism, ableism, and the capitalist compulsion to unlimited growth -- for both climbers and their fans. -- From back cover
Contents
1. The ends of desire -- 2. Who will marry you now? -- 3. Just because someone has done it doesn't mean it's humanly possible -- 4. Everest traffic and the economy of walking -- 5. Climbing technotopia, or: Did free solo really happen? -- 6. Gestures of climbing -- 7. The last problem of the Himalaya.